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Discussion Starter #1
FYI
I was hesitant to tackle this job due the the custom tool they show for the top of the rear shock. It took only about an hour and a haft to do both sides. The bottom of the shock is pretty straightforward by removing the 2 screws that hold the plastic cover on. Then removing the bottom screw of the shock. Next cut the plastic cover that is on the upper haft of the shock to expose the shock shaft. Use vise grips to tightly grab the shock shaft to keep it from rotating while you use a long 17mm socket to remove the top nut on the shock. You need to cut the trunk liner above the shock where it is partly perforated but don’t cut all the tabs. Just enough to allow access to the top of the shock. Now you can compress the shock and pull it out. Before you install the new Bilstein shock you will need to grind a small flat 90 degrees to the 2 flats already on the top of the shock. This is so you can use a 9/32 socket on top of the shock to tighten the top nut. Only remove enough metal to get the socket on. The tighter the better. Put the nut on and tighten by hand as far as you can then use the wrench to finish the job. Like I said, not that bad a job.
 
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