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Premium Member 2015 SLK55 AMG
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96 Posts
I'll connect it up again in the morning and let it run for the day and take another measurement.
The car hasn't been driven any distance for some time due to the lockdown, but it is started regularly and never misses a beat.

Yes, original battery, five years old in June.
 

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Premium Member 2015 SLK55 AMG
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96 Posts
12 hrs on charge today, voltage is now up a little to 12.4 volts. I'll do it again tomorrow to see if that changes at all.

Also, I checked why the door mirrors weren't folding in when the car locked. I looked at the menus for the car and all was as it should be, as were the SmartTop options.
Manually folded the mirrors a couple of times using the door button and this worked fine.

Locked the car and they folded OK.
 

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Premium Member 2015 SLK55 AMG
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96 Posts
OK. I think this saga is done.

Another 12hrs on charge today and the voltage, which was 12.4 volts yesterday, now at 12.3 volts.

But with a five year old battery, car starts every time even if left for a couple of weeks, I'll accept that.
Some life left in it yet !

I like the fact I can just plug in the charger without opening the bonnet though.
 

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Premium Member 2018 SLC43
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2,843 Posts
Discussion Starter #44
So which model of CTEK charger do You have?

Plus where have You got the CTEK lead hanging out??
Myself: If My SLK is outside, I put the CTEK charger under the bonnet by the jump point, with a 10m mains lead looped over the drivers mirror (as a reminder) and making sure the mains lead has as a downward loop, before the mains plug (to stop rain water tracking down the lead..)
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Or if the car is in the garage, sit the charger at the bottom of the windscreen & use a CTEK 2.5m Extension Lead:
* Link to 2.5m CTEK Extn lead: https://www.amazon.co.uk/CTEK-Connect-2-5M-Extension-charger/dp/B00ADIHUVG/ref=sr_1_1?
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(Being careful either way, not to trap the lead, when the bonnet/hood is closed...!!)
 

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Premium Member 2015 SLK55 AMG
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96 Posts
CTEK Time to Go.

I fed the lead from the terminal, alongside the fuse box (tie wrapped to the dashcam feed) and through the bulkhead (convenient hole there to use).

Then took the wire down the side of the dash, underneath the drivers side door trim where it exits behind the drivers seat (RHD drive UK).

I then connect a power lead through the drivers window dropped down a notch. Simple enough to connect the CTEK charger to the comfort connector as and when I need it and then return it to the boot (trunk). CD4836A4-7FD2-4BBE-88E8-269DB79497CA.jpeg 4652D714-7B05-4FA6-8DB3-24EBEE2924A2.jpeg B5E541AF-6568-41D3-BE04-FFC2F15ACAB3.jpeg 13A208FB-350D-44E1-9D24-CB0BDE2B4327.jpeg 593ED342-43CC-47CC-B33A-8895E0283036.jpeg 4F4B1323-63B5-4715-8C24-4E7F47513271.jpeg EC81F8BD-1E9C-4AEE-9D57-68DD9277DF87.jpeg EE6D1EE5-66F6-4A94-9109-BCDA74A5F3D0.jpeg
 

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Premium Member 2018 SLC43
Joined
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2,843 Posts
Discussion Starter #46
For those in the UK looking at purchasing a CTEK charger during these lock down times...
I was just looking up @Rv8 "CTEK - Time to Go" model and came across Tayna Batteries selling CTEK chargers cheaper than Amazon, even after postage:
* Tayna - CTEK Webpage: CTEK Battery Chargers - CTEK Chargers - Next Day Delivery
Myself & other members have been using Tayna for many years, with their on-line batteries at good prices (y)
 

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Premium Member 2014 SLK200
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2,470 Posts
OK, so, finally got round to adding an umbilical to allow me to hook up the CTEK without needing to raise the bonnet [hood].
Firstly, I already have the 'comfort lead' connected as in Trev's posts further back in this thread
IMG_0663.JPG

I have now added a CTEK extension cable that can be connected to the comfort lead and have run it out under the number plate where the end can be lodged for easy access. I used a genuine CTEK 2 metre extension lead and cut off about 300mm from the female end for the later addition of a female Tyco superseal connector:
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These are rated IP67 - half hour in one metre of water. There are very clear Youtube instructions available.

Took me a little while to decide how to route the extension but have taken it over the headlamp housing and then into the space behind the grille.

The plastic cover over the light unit is simply held down with two 'fir tree' plastic rivets that can be removed with the use of plastic trim tools or a taped screwdriver.
IMG_0659.JPG

Gratuitous use of red pens for the benefit of @Squishband

The cable is in a protective braid sleeve and wound with fabric electrical tape anywhere it could rub.
Blue arrows indicate cable ties, yellow arrow is route into void behind grille.
IMG_0627_LI.jpg

Access to the void is via the hole left once centre star is removed. It is pretty easy to guide the cable through from the headlight side by putting hand/arm into the space and looking through the grille. There is a conveniently unused cable clip [blue arrow] on my car that allowed me to secure the cable run up to the cross member. I'm guessing that others with the swanky collision avoidance radar may have to use a cable tie or two.
IMG_0630_LI.jpg

From there the route is down the central cross bracing where I used a homemade cable tie/plastic rivet [blue arrow] and into/through another convenient slot in the moulded polystyrene behind the star [yellow arrow] Again, if the radar is fitted there may already be wires there.
IMG_0632_LI.jpg

With the number plate carrier off there is access to a central hole in the grille through which I passed the protected extension by initially hooking it with a wire through the hole.
IMG_0633_LI.jpg

The additional sleeving is probably 'belt and braces' but I had some so used it.
The 'tail', once the connector is on, is just long enough to tuck up behind the number plate carrier and rest on one of the two moulded stumps [blue line]
I have also added a bungee hook, again, probably superfluous but I had one so used it. It simply loops around the cable and hooks onto a convenient part of the grille behind the carrier.

IMG_0635_LI.jpg
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I made up an adaptor using the removed female end of the CTEK extension cable and a male TE connector. This arrangement has meant that the CTEK still has it's male connector and can be used directly with the comfort lead, bypassing the extension, if so wished.
When in use the cable end can be hooked out from behind the carrier and connected to the CTEK in the usual manner.

IMG_0660.JPG

Final job was to make up a removable termination with a second male TE connector sealed with their red silicone blanking plugs. Just have to remember to replace that after disconnecting the charge lead and before hiding the umbilical.

The above works for me and is particularly useful if the car is laid up for any length of time as access in my garage is limited, thereby making getting the bonnet open a challenge.

Couple of considerations:

It is key to ensure that polarity is maintained throughout when removing/changing connectors.
All vulnerable connectors are IP 67 and have been wrapped in automotive fabric tape to avoid chafing.
The comfort lead is fuse protected in the event of a front ender.
Probably an unsuitable mod if you take your SLK offroading.
 

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Registered 2013 SLK55 AMG
Joined
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152 Posts
There is some fab information here, thank you all. My power lead is from the none drivers side so will be measuring up the standard cables to attach them to the battery, feed them through the battery cover (possible new leak proof hole to be made) and feed the cable through the gap under the bonnet edge corner where the washer feeds are then connect up in the normal way.
 
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