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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
OK guys, here we have some general 171 procedures that you might find useful, first the battery connection checklist followed by some battery connection good practice tips then good practice tips on disconnecting the battery and even further down some general stuff.

Battery connection procedure -

Normalize one-touch windows - With the ignition on press and hold the drivers window control in the one-touch up position and continue to hold for a few seconds after the motor has stopped (relay will have clicked), now do the same for the passenger window (you can use the drivers controller). This will restore the one-touch up/down feature and enable the auto drop feature to raise the window again once the applicable door is closed.

Set clock - More than one way to do this so i will point you in the right direction and ask you to read your manual for the exact instructions, as a general rule of thumb if you have COMAND and sat nav then you need not set the clock unless the time automatically calculated from UTC is wrong, in this case you will adjust the clock via the COMAND SERV-Settings page. A20 owners will find the clock settings under the instrument cluster settings menu.

Normalize electric seat's - This is not technically necessary and not mentioned in the owners manual but can be performed if the seat(s) act erratically after the battery has been re-connected, simply adjust all the moving parts to the limiters for example height full up and full down, backrest full forward and full aft and hold for a few seconds after motion has stopped (same as windows), this should let the seat controller know where it is and enable the correct functioning of the memory recall.

And there you have it for connecting the battery, now a few good practice tips relating to it-

Minimize sparks, use quick motions - Don't p-ussy foot around when reconnecting the ground terminal, sparks induce voltage spikes that can kill the electronics and momentary contact of the connector and terminal can initiate a startup sequence that is then terminated mid-flow (not good), do your best to align the connector and the battery post before making the connection and then push down sliding the ring onto the post, if you mess up then you can either choose to carefully slide the ring into the correct alignment very slowly and always maintaining contact or you can wait 3-4 minutes and restart the process. If your going to be frequently removing power consider a battery isolator to avoid this problem altogether.

Give the car time to wake up - When you re-connect the battery you will start to hear the car come to life, the control units will wake up and self-test, sensors will be read in and positions acquired. Listen out for the air conditioning system normalization sequence that should start almost as soon as you connect the battery, give the car 3-4 minutes to complete everything and then continue on, when you open a door (ideally the drivers first) you might depending on software versions see the clock reset to 12:00 and the CDC start to cycle if this happens wait for it all to calm down before inserting the key and getting onto normalizing things, on the other hand these sequences might happen at about the same time as the AC sequence and then you can put the key in as soon as your in the car.

Now for disconnecting the battery, good practice tip 1 for connecting the battery applies to this also and a few disconnect tips -

Let the car go to sleep before removing power just so all settings can be saved and run-off timers can expire, open the hood (to avoid waking the car when you open it) then wait 3-4 minutes before pulling power.

DO NOT WHATEVER YOU DO LOCK THE CAR! - You would be amazed at how many people lock the car using the central locking and in the process arm the alarm only to find it screaming at them will no way to shut it off once they remove power. If you need the car locked during this period then manually lock the passenger door by reaching over and depressing the pin before removing power and then use the emergency key to lock the drivers door after removing power, remember to take into account battery access i.e Do you leave the hood open during this period or do you drop the drivers window slightly before removing power to allow you to open door and access the hood release without damaging the car (see below).

Another idiot-proofing tip, KEEP DOORS CLOSED! - Once the power has been removed DO NOT open the doors, you will likely damage the window seal when you open a door and i can almost guarantee you will crush it trying to close it. The windows CANNOT move out of the way of the seal without power!

Thats about all i can think of for disconnecting the battery now a quick general good practice tip -

Proper startup - This is a general tip that applies all the time, starting the car should be done as follows -

Key to ACC - Wait for pass airbag off light to extinguish
Key to ON - Wait for Parktronic lights to extinguish, if you don't have PTC count to 3
Flick key to Start - DO NOT turn and hold, its one touch so let the computer control the startup from this point and it doesn't need or like you to hold the key in start and bombard it with Engine Start requests.
 

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Thanks Dan, nicely stated!:tu:
 

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Hello,

I just added a BatteryMinder. Please pardon my lack of proper terminology:

The BMinder came with positive/negative lug-thingys that I attached to the battery posts. Which means I disconnected my battery.

1) Can I leave those lug-thingys installed all the time, and simply plug/unplug the quick disconnect when I need to?

2) Now I have a "Retractable Roof Visit Workshop" error message. Is it really broken, or is there a "reset" I can do? (I have the smart-top module)
 

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aka John
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Hello,

I just added a BatteryMinder. Please pardon my lack of proper terminology:

The BMinder came with positive/negative lug-thingys that I attached to the battery posts. Which means I disconnected my battery.

1) Can I leave those lug-thingys installed all the time, and simply plug/unplug the quick disconnect when I need to?
I do - there's a thread posted here somewhere, but basically I ran mine out to a clamp I attached to the suspension post. Do remember to put the cover on the quick connect end - it tends to attract dirt.

2) Now I have a "Retractable Roof Visit Workshop" error message. Is it really broken, or is there a "reset" I can do? (I have the smart-top module)
See your other thread, but basically I think you need to 1] disconnect the power from the SmartTop. 2] Cycle the roof AND windows 3] reconnect SmartTop.
 

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Hello,

I just added a BatteryMinder. Please pardon my lack of proper terminology:

The BMinder came with positive/negative lug-thingys that I attached to the battery posts. Which means I disconnected my battery.

1) Can I leave those lug-thingys installed all the time, and simply plug/unplug the quick disconnect when I need to?

2) Now I have a "Retractable Roof Visit Workshop" error message. Is it really broken, or is there a "reset" I can do? (I have the smart-top module)
This thread may help: http://www.slkworld.com/general-modifications-r171/3894-battery-trickle-charger-pre-wiring-install.html
 

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Thanks...I used your tutorial a couple of days ago! Easy-schmeezy-lemon squeezy!!
 

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2) Now I have a "Retractable Roof Visit Workshop" error message. Is it really broken, or is there a "reset" I can do? (I have the smart-top module)
A. Try to deactivate the SmartTop module:

Version 1

Enter programming mode: doors unlocked, key out of ignition. Insert key into ignition but do not turn. Press and hold the upper MENU button on the steering wheel(the one w/ double rectangular icon) until L indicator lamp blinks once (this indicates function 1). Let go of button and navigate using the the up and down buttons (to get into specific function nos.). In version 1 of SmartTop module: Function 1 - product enable, 0 = OFF, 1= OFF. Use the + and - buttons to change the setting within each function. You will know you're in function 1 because the L turn indicator flashes once. If the R indicator flashes once after the L one flashes, then the product is enabled. press the - button, the L turn signal will flash once and the R signal lamp will not flash after the left one, indicating the product is now deactivated.

Version 3

Key not in ignition, doors unlocked, COMAND is off. Insert key and turn to accessory position (position 1),select audio screen using the MENU button on steering wheel. Press and hold phone hang-up button on sterring wheel until the L turn signal blinks once to indicate function 1. Let go of button. Navigate thru functions using up and down buttons. change setting within each function using the +/- buttons. Function 1 - product enable/disable 0=off, 1=on. (works very similar to version 1).

Once the smartTop module is in OFF mode, the warning about the roof should disappear. The warning may have come on because of the inadvertent loss of battery function. If the warning disappears after inactiviating the SmartTop module, wait a few minutes after removing the key from ignition. Re-enter programming mode and activate the roof module. Hopefully the warning on the roof does not return and module will now work as normal.

B. If the above doesn't work, that means removing the power source to the roof module and reconnecting, this may reset the roof module. Some disassembly may be required to get to the roof module's power source.

C. If the above 2 maneuvers don't work, then the next step is to remove the connections from the roof module to the CANBUS, reconnect the original CANBUS connectors. Check to see if the roof warning disappears and it should on this manuever (as the roof module is no longer in the picture). Reconnect roof module as if installing for the first time when the warning disappears and the roof module should work.

Hope the above helps.
 

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Starting SLK350

Key to ACC - Wait for pass airbag off light to extinguish
Key to ON - Wait for Parktronic lights to extinguish, if you don't have PTC count to 3
Flick key to Start - DO NOT turn and hold, its one touch so let the computer control the startup from this point and it doesn't need or like you to hold the key in start and bombard it with Engine Start requests.
Dan:
I tried turniing the key and releasing, the car does not start, you need to hold it for a second or two. Is there something wrong?
 
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Discussion Starter #11
Yeah that sounds not right, you should be able to just throw it into start for less than a second and the computer takes over.
 

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Thanks, I will take it in, should I go immediately or can it wait till I need a service?

Also, can anyone else confirm that a 2005 350 US version starts with one flick?
 
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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks, I will take it in, should I go immediately or can it wait till I need a service?

Also, can anyone else confirm that a 2005 350 US version starts with one flick?
hell no, don't waste your time taking it in special mate
 

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Da Bochi Dan

I'm very new to the slk forum, but I have been with the Merc. Owners Club forum rather longer.
My experience of the fora (!) has been 'mixed', but I just wanted to say how much I appreciated your post on this topic.
Clear, concise anda general cracker!
Very many thanks
 

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New owner as of 3/7/11, and in reading the Operator's Manual, it just states to "turn the SmartKey in the starter switch to position 3 and release it immediately.
Is there a reason for taking these steps;
Proper startup - This is a general tip that applies all the time, starting the car should be done as follows -
Key to ACC - Wait for pass airbag off light to extinguish
Key to ON - Wait for Parktronic lights to extinguish, if you don't have PTC count to 3
Flick key to Start -

Not trying to be argumentative, just somewhat confused.

Thank you!
 

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New owner as of 3/7/11, and in reading the Operator's Manual, it just states to "turn the SmartKey in the starter switch to position 3 and release it immediately.
Is there a reason for taking these steps;
Proper startup - This is a general tip that applies all the time, starting the car should be done as follows -
Key to ACC - Wait for pass airbag off light to extinguish
Key to ON - Wait for Parktronic lights to extinguish, if you don't have PTC count to 3
Flick key to Start -

Not trying to be argumentative, just somewhat confused.

Thank you!
IIRC, the aforementioned procedures are to allow the electronics (car "pooter") to do its proper check/procedure.

As far as starting the car, the procedure is to click it to postion 3 and release fingers immediately as it is an electronic switch that sends a string of commands to initiate the car starting sequence.

Switching to position 3 and holding until car starts (like vehicles in the 1960s)will send several repeated commands to start that may not be "healthful" to the electronics.

Correct me if I'm wrong, please.
 

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aka John
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Well, Dan and I had a couple of long discussions on this early on. First off, to start your car, "flicking" to start is the right way to do it. As nearly as I can tell (and a disagreement I had with Dan!), the CAN bus suppresses any additional "start" signals until the ECU reports "fail to start", in which case, you have to try again...

I've yet to have any of my MB's in this state, so it's a philosophical argument! :)

I also argue that it's not required to wait at the different key stops. It's not going to hurt anything, but with the current CGW firmware, the car "waits" until a "power on / start" sequence if complete before trying to start the car. Maybe back in the original '04 R171's there was cause to be careful, but running on '06+ software, the car does not care - it follows it's own sequence regardless of what - and when - you turn the key.

NOTE : DO NOT try are start your car more than twice in a row. If you "flick" to start, and your starter engages, but the car does not turn over, don't keep trying, call for assistance.......
 

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Thanks for the responses! I'll continue to do the "turn, turn, flick" method as it's kinda' fun watching the dash...it's also VERY nice hearing the engine running!
 
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