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2006 SLK280
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134 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sorry but I know this has been covered to a certain extent, however it's too important to get wrong!

I would like to jack up the front of the car, put axle stands under the two front jacking points under the sill so that I can take the 2 front wheels off. I understand there is a central jacking point that I can use to get both wheels off the deck so that I can put the axle stands in place.

I have found what I think is the jacking point but it looks to be made of plastic! Is this indeed the jacking point, or is it a cover for a jacking point, or is it nothing to do with a jacking point!

I'm hoping all I have to do it put my nice new Arcan low profile jack under it and off to go.
 

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Founding Member 2006
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*Premium Member
2005 SLK350
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2,562 Posts
Many thanks for that.

Do you just jack up directly on to the plastic block or is that just a cover for something made of metal?
Put the jack right on the block. If you are using the typical floor jack that you roll under the car and then pump the long handle, you may find that the cradle is too deep for it to make contact with that front block without the sides of the cradle coming up against the plastic belly pans, which will likely break them. I have not jacked the car by this method so I am not sure what the resolution is. In case you were not aware - the four blocks on the sides are also plastic.
 

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2006 SLK280
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134 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
OK - job done.

Jack up one side, put 40mm piece of wood under the front tyre, let the car down to rest on the wood. Repeat procedure for other side. This raises the car slightly so you can get the jack under there front.

Push the jack under the car from the front - make sure it's exactly in the centre. Go to the side of the car and adjust the jack so that its pad is correctly positioned. As mchild said previously be careful that the jack pad isn't too deep (the Arcan one is fine). Give the jack a few strokes so it's just about touching the jacking point and readjust its position if needed.

Should now be good to go, but just double check that everything is going OK with the jacking point when you've raised the car by a few inches and it's bearing some real weight. Jack away (!) until the car is high enough to place the axle stands under the two front jacking points - I used a piece of 18mm plywood to protect the car from the metal axle stand pillar tops. Release jack slowly and double check that you've aligned the axle stands correctly. Remove jack.

P.S. - Don't ever trust your life to a jack however much it cost you!
 

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*Premium Member
2005 SLK350
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2,562 Posts
OK - job done.

Jack up one side, put 40mm piece of wood under the front tyre, let the car down to rest on the wood. Repeat procedure for other side. This raises the car slightly so you can get the jack under there front.

Push the jack under the car from the front - make sure it's exactly in the centre. Go to the side of the car and adjust the jack so that its pad is correctly positioned. As mchild said previously be careful that the jack pad isn't too deep (the Arcan one is fine). Give the jack a few strokes so it's just about touching the jacking point and readjust its position if needed.

Should now be good to go, but just double check that everything is going OK with the jacking point when you've raised the car by a few inches and it's bearing some real weight. Jack away (!) until the car is high enough to place the axle stands under the two front jacking points - I used a piece of 18mm plywood to protect the car from the metal axle stand pillar tops. Release jack slowly and double check that you've aligned the axle stands correctly. Remove jack.

P.S. - Don't ever trust your life to a jack however much it cost you!
Wangler - good write up.

Another option for getting the front (or rear) of the car raised enough to roll the typical floor jack under it is to cut a taper on two pieces of short lumber to create a couple of low ramps. Then you can place them at the tires and simply drive up on them to get that initial rise. Saves from having to move from side to side with the floor jack.

In my case, I used two pieces of 2"x10"x24" (net size here in the US is 1.5"x9.5"x24") framing lumber. I cut the taper using a table saw with the blade angled the maximum amount to give the easiest rise possible. I ran the each piece through the saw on end (the 9.5" end down).

Then I made sure the the wood pieces would not slide away as the tires came up to and pushed against them. I did this by attaching to the under side of each piece of wood a section of nylon strapping from a ratchet hold down strap. the strap is about 2" wide (50mm) and about 3/16" thick (5mm). I set the table saw blade to cut a depth of 3/16" and ran each piece of wood through so that the blade was cutting a notch in the bottom center. I ran them through multiple times moving the wood piece over a small about each time. I did this until there was a 2" wide 3/16" deep notch along the full under side of each piece of wood.

I cut the strap for each piece so that it was long enough to stick out beyond the tapered end about a 12" (300mm) so a total strap length of about 36" (900mm). Secured the straps to the underside of the wood with a few deck screws (1" - 1.25" in length). With the notch in the wood the strap is recessed so that the wood lays flat on the shop floor. The strap extends from the end about 12" so that the tire will easily roll onto it before the tire gets to and puts any pressure on the wood ramp. When the tire does put pressure on the wood the weight of the car is on the strap which will keep the wood blocks from sliding away as the car tires come up against the edge of the tapered end of the ramp.

This little project took about 30 minutes and I used scrap materials so there was no cost.
 

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* Founding Member #2
2008 SLK55 AMG
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Wangler - good write up.

Another option for getting the front (or rear) of the car raised enough to roll the typical floor jack under it is to cut a taper on two pieces of short lumber to create a couple of low ramps. Then you can place them at the tires and simply drive up on them to get that initial rise. Saves from having to move from side to side with the floor jack.

In my case, I used two pieces of 2"x10"x24" (net size here in the US is 1.5"x9.5"x24") framing lumber. I cut the taper using a table saw with the blade angled the maximum amount to give the easiest rise possible. I ran the each piece through the saw on end (the 9.5" end down).

Then I made sure the the wood pieces would not slide away as the tires came up to and pushed against them. I did this by attaching to the under side of each piece of wood a section of nylon strapping from a ratchet hold down strap. the strap is about 2" wide (50mm) and about 3/16" thick (5mm). I set the table saw blade to cut a depth of 3/16" and ran each piece of wood through so that the blade was cutting a notch in the bottom center. I ran them through multiple times moving the wood piece over a small about each time. I did this until there was a 2" wide 3/16" deep notch along the full under side of each piece of wood.

I cut the strap for each piece so that it was long enough to stick out beyond the tapered end about a 12" (300mm) so a total strap length of about 36" (900mm). Secured the straps to the underside of the wood with a few deck screws (1" - 1.25" in length). With the notch in the wood the strap is recessed so that the wood lays flat on the shop floor. The strap extends from the end about 12" so that the tire will easily roll onto it before the tire gets to and puts any pressure on the wood ramp. When the tire does put pressure on the wood the weight of the car is on the strap which will keep the wood blocks from sliding away as the car tires come up against the edge of the tapered end of the ramp.

This little project took about 30 minutes and I used scrap materials so there was no cost.
Nice writeup. Got photos or diagram?
 

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Registered 2006 SLK350
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94 Posts
Hi Folks,

after reading multiple info on jacking up from of slk350, i want to ask what is probably a stupid question:

If I use the side jacking points to lift my car off the ground, is there no place up front to place a jack stand to let the car down on ?

Thanks
Jim
 

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*Premium Member
2005 SLK55 AMG /2005 SLK350
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6,166 Posts
1) jack up one front corner and lower it onto a block of wood 2) Jack up the center 3) put stands left and right. Leave the block of wood where it is else you'll forget to replace it and crack your lip.
 

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The car is designed to be jacked from the center point and supported on both sides. So, no, there really isn't a convenient way to raise just one side. IMHO, if you've decided to do your own work, the exercise of elevating the front off the ground will become so routine that you'll wonder why you ever asked the question :)

Cheers
 

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Registered 2006 SLK350
Joined
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94 Posts
Hi Folks,

I have been jacking up a truck for the last 32 years so I am perplexed by MB and the way they design their cars to be jacked up. I thought the MB jacking points were for jacking up the car with jack pads. But if that is the case, then how the heck am I going to use the same place for a jack stand ? That's why I am confused by this design. Using the center jacking point, seems pretty risky to me since the car could tilt one side or the other, it seems. This also means that I have to buy jack stands that will accept a jack pad for the slk.

Also... IMHO ???

Thanks
jim
 

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*Registered
2007 SLK350
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664 Posts
I doubt Mercedes benz care or even give a thought to how we, home mechanics, jack up a car. :surprise:



The four cill points are purely for a two post, hydraulic "car lift" used in MB Dealership workshops
 

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Founding Member 2006
Joined
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108,881 Posts
Hi Folks,

I have been jacking up a truck for the last 32 years so I am perplexed by MB and the way they design their cars to be jacked up. I thought the MB jacking points were for jacking up the car with jack pads. But if that is the case, then how the heck am I going to use the same place for a jack stand ? That's why I am confused by this design. Using the center jacking point, seems pretty risky to me since the car could tilt one side or the other, it seems. This also means that I have to buy jack stands that will accept a jack pad for the slk.

Also... IMHO ???

Thanks
jim
Jim

IMHO

In My Humble Opinion
 

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Registered 2006 SLK350
Joined
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94 Posts
Hi Folks

Well I experienced a leak in my rear tire and had to take the tire off for repair.
Found a nice nail in the tread.

Plan A, was to jack the car up with my homemade jackpad, hoping to place a jack stand under rear axle.
Could not see where to place the jack stand. Did not look like there was any place to put it.

Plan B, was I had to get the spare tire out, inflate it and replace the bad tire with the spare so
I could let the car down.

Man oh man, what a nightmare !
 
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