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Will do so! But not clear where to look. But tearing down the cover above the brake pedal is to my understanding essential.
Remove the side kick panel, remove the panel under the dash and over the pedals, remove the sill plate (just pull up with it). Once that you should be able to pull the carpet away from the door opening toward the center of the car so you can get into the plastic channel the wiring is routed through. You may deside that you need to remove the seat since it sits on the carpet and limits the amount you can pul lthe carpet up. The X63/4 looks like it is up where your left foot would be when driving. But you will have to use the pictures to find the correct connection block.

If you do take the seat out make sure you disconnect the battery as you will be disconnecting air bag connections under the seat to get the seat out.

Do the wiggle test on the ESP connection on the X63/4 block like the other wire connections while watch the scan tool. I would be doing the wiggle testing before any specific investigation if female connectors are loose. See if you can find where the interuption is occuring.

Your question about the firmware - MB only updates firmware if needed and may never update firmware from the original if it is working properly. So, don't worry about the age of the firmware.
 
Discussion starter · #203 ·
Many, many thanks. Will do the thing this weekend and - of course reprt back!

Remove the side kick panel, remove the panel under the dash and over the pedals, remove the sill plate (just pull up with it). Once that you should be able to pull the carpet away from the door opening toward the center of the car so you can get into the plastic channel the wiring is routed through. You may deside that you need to remove the seat since it sits on the carpet and limits the amount you can pul lthe carpet up. The X63/4 looks like it is up where your left foot would be when driving. But you will have to use the pictures to find the correct connection block.

If you do take the seat out make sure you disconnect the battery as you will be disconnecting air bag connections under the seat to get the seat out.

Do the wiggle test on the ESP connection on the X63/4 block like the other wire connections while watch the scan tool. I would be doing the wiggle testing before any specific investigation if female connectors are loose. See if you can find where the interuption is occuring.

Your question about the firmware - MB only updates firmware if needed and may never update firmware from the original if it is working properly. So, don't worry about the age of the firmware.
 
Discussion starter · #204 · (Edited)
Hi Guys. Yesterday the ESP-unit died on me at a red light waiting for green. Car in gear and still standing. So the issue can happen absolutely anytime and is not connected to vibrations, hot or cold, running or not.

Did check the W9 ground point again - and it is non corroded. Never the less I wiggled the cabeling while the car was running. Nothing. Released the nut and then retightned it firmly again.

Got hold of the "not so easy to get to" X63/4. Bone dry and no signs of corrosion. Hooked up my scanner and did a lot of wiggeling at every connector. Nothing. Whatever I did, I could still see the ESP-module in the scanner. During a fail, it would show "Linking error". Gave the whole connector a flush of contact spray, while I could not figure out how to get the connector out of it's socket.

Now I am down to - what? Drive the car as it is and hope for that the error will in the end get permanent - and then fix it? BTW, I took her for a good 1,5 hours spin after the days "fixing and trixing". No fault.

Edit. @Sneaky Pete - there is a brown "odd" wire there. Normal?

Also - how do I find the correct block #4 at the X63/4? I have searched, but in vain.
 

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Hi Guys. Yesterday the ESP-unit died on me at a red light waiting for green. Car in gear and still standing. So the issue can happen absolutely anytime and is not connected to vibrations, hot or cold, running or not.

Did check the W9 ground point again - and it is non corroded. Never the less I wiggled the cabeling while the car was running. Nothing. Released the nut and then retightned it firmly again.

Got hold of the "not so easy to get to" X63/4. Bone dry and no signs of corrosion. Hooked up my scanner and did a lot of wiggeling at every connector. Nothing. Whatever I did, I could still see the ESP-module in the scanner. During a fail, it would show "Linking error". Gave the whole connector a flush of contact spray, while I could not figure out how to get the connector out of it's socket.

Now I am down to - what? Drive the car as it is and hope for that the error will in the end get permanent - and then fix it? BTW, I took her for a good 1,5 hours spin after the days "fixing and trixing". No fault.

Edit. @Sneaky Pete - there is a brown "odd" wire there. Normal?

Also - how do I find the correct block #4 at the X63/4? I have searced, but in vain.
Brown is usually ground.
I'll have a peek in WIS and see if I can find pin layout of X63/4
But the brown wire is normal.
579894


Could be connector 1 of X63/4 goes to the AGW. It is a bus system so it really does not matter what exactly is on connector 2-10. Brown is ground.
 
Discussion starter · #206 ·
OK, thank you Piet!

Brown is usually ground.
I'll have a peek in WIS and see if I can find pin layout of X63/4
But the brown wire is normal.
View attachment 579894

Could be connector 1 of X63/4 goes to the AGW. It is a bus system so it really does not matter what exactly is on connector 2-10. Brown is ground.
 
Thanks, got it. Still not shure if the issue is there and how to identify which connector it is (#4).
Not sure either ofcourse. But the connector with the brown wire is #1. According the wiring diagram the brown wire goes to either ground point W9 or W29/10. W29/10 if your car is from June '05 onward.
Position #1-8 and #10. So I think bottom row is 1-8, top row 9-16. Starting from the 3 wire connector you should be able to figure out which one is #4. Your car is from 2005, so maybe good to check groundpoint W29/10 too. Allthough I would expect more modules in error if that was the culprit. But who knows.
Wire diagram added.
Other cause could be the CGW? It acts as a bridge btween the different CAN's. Your OBD is connected to the diagnostic CAN (essential the CGW itself) and talks to the engine CAN. Engine CAN is connected to the interior CAN through the CGW. Again,would be weird that only ESP ecounters problems if the CGW was faulty. But who knows?
 

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Discussion starter · #210 ·
Not sure either ofcourse. But the connector with the brown wire is #1. According the wiring diagram the brown wire goes to either ground point W9 or W29/10. W29/10 if your car is from June '05 onward.
Position #1-8 and #10. So I think bottom row is 1-8, top row 9-16. Starting from the 3 wire connector you should be able to figure out which one is #4. Your car is from 2005, so maybe good to check groundpoint W29/10 too. Allthough I would expect more modules in error if that was the culprit. But who knows.
Wire diagram added.
Other cause could be the CGW? It acts as a bridge btween the different CAN's. Your OBD is connected to the diagnostic CAN (essential the CGW itself) and talks to the engine CAN. Engine CAN is connected to the interior CAN through the CGW. Again,would be weird that only ESP ecounters problems if the CGW was faulty. But who knows?
Thanks Pete, makes sense. I will dig into X63/4 and #4 again. Now I at least know how to get the single connector out (at first I thought that the whole assy could be disconnected just like at the N 47/5).

My car is from November 04, so it's W9 ground for it.
 
Discussion starter · #211 · (Edited)
I haven't got the time today to look into the X63/4 again, but will do it later. Have driven the car for at least 4 hours now and still no "Beep". How long it will last? How knows?

Any way, @Sneaky Pete @mchild and @i860 - is this normal values for a car with just the ignition on?

Frame 1/61:
B34(ESP brake pressure sensor) ----- 0.58bar
Lateral acceleration ----- -0.42m/s²
Rotational speed ----- -1.10°/s

Would think that lateral acceleration and rotational speed would be more or less "0".
 
During a drive today I got the following errors/faults on the car.

1. Speedo stopped working
2. ABS warning light in dash
3. Speedtronic faulty
4. Display faulty
5. Warning for brake wear
6. Tire pressure monitoring out of order
7. No digital speedo
8. Driving computers just showing time and nothing else
9. Servo steering turned heavy

and the most peculiar of all - outside temp showing 0,0 deg C.
Just checking, any of the list left to do?
 
Almost a week with close to 1.000 km and no "beep". I hope it stays there :eek:

Was it the W9 which I did "re-ground" or the X63/4 fix with contact spray?

Time will tell.
You may want to put a dab of die-electric grease on each of the pins (both sides of the pin if it is flat) once you are sure the fix is in. The grease will keep moisture from the connections and provide a coat of protection to pins to minimize whatever gets on them and impedes the electrical flow.
 
Discussion starter · #217 ·
You may want to put a dab of die-electric grease on each of the pins (both sides of the pin if it is flat) once you are sure the fix is in. The grease will keep moisture from the connections and provide a coat of protection to pins to minimize whatever gets on them and impedes the electrical flow.
Thanks. I used a professional contact cleaner lubricant (EML). We use that in our work daily and it's really good. Hope it keeps the Gremlin away.

Fingers crossed.
 
Discussion starter · #220 ·
Despite a flawless 2 hours drive yesterday, guess what happened when I took the car this morning? After 100 meters I had the đź’© back again. Devastated. This is not happening. I could kill the car!

Anyway, the last period with way over 1.000 km and no fault leads me to the conclusion that I have an issue with X63/4. Now I will get back there and loosen the #4 connector to see if the same error is replicated with the ignition is on and the scanner connected.

I will also check the main fuses F32 to see if the one for front SAM with its connector is OK. Good idea?

I have not given up! Yet.....
 
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