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I guess I should make a video of how to remove the cable lines from the pump since I cannot find one anywhere online! I will do this once I figure out how to remove them!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I think there was a segment in the video about the hydraulic lines and removing them from the pump, the guys at Top Hydraulics did mention that there is a stamped metal clip which is locked in place by a blue plastic retainer. You can remove the retainer and just turn the stamped metal clip and the lines can be removed, so fairly simple to do. I ended up removing the hex nut in the middle and removing the metal clip in the video which was more effort than is actually required.

I assume that is what you are referring to? The hydraulic lines?

I have not had the extra time to update the video with some of the notes Top Hydraulics gave me as to doing the job, I plan on doing some work on my R170 soon, bigger brakes and the ASP pulley etc. and I will try to shoot some addendum video about the hydraulic replacements for the vario top.

The video has played more than 500 times as of today so hopefully it has helped a few people out.
 

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Stilettos to OverAlls

The video has played more than 500 times as of today so hopefully it has helped a few people out.
I am certain your video has helped 100s including myself when it comes time to replace the top latch. I was merely frustrated by trying to unscrew the couplings for a couple of hours, DUH lol. I watched dozens of videos on removals & rebuilds but none addressed removing the cable from the pump. I follow instructions pretty good & think this would help other women who may want to try a DYI. So if there is one that addresses the cables & pump it would have spared my entire Saturday afternoon! I spent 3 hrs on videos, 2 hours on cables then 2 minutes removing them AFTER I put on my hubbys glasses to see the plate! :biglaugh:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I am glad the video helped out!

I am going to get around to updating it with some areas that need clarification and I will put the pump line removal on the list!
 

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I am glad the video helped out!

I am going to get around to updating it with some areas that need clarification and I will put the pump line removal on the list!
Let me know if I can be of assistance altho I am clueless to what, perhaps a rough translation from a mechanic to the mechanically challenged or a printable direction in a large font for those like myself who is too stuburn to wear her granny glasses, lol

:wink:
 

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Registered 2001 SLK320
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Houllahan,

Awesome job recording your job. It is very helpful to see what the job entails. I do have a few questions. If only my front roof actuator is leaking - can i only repair the one. How do I determine if it is the locking actuator or the other two. Should i replace all three.

Another Question: Is drilling the hole so I can get the clip out? Can anyone provide details or video on removing the clips. Seems like a difficult process.

Thank you for the help,
alec
 

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Discussion Starter #8
You could certainly replace - repair only the front locking cylinder. In fact on my car it was the only one leaking but I chose to replace all five.

There is no need to drill anything on the car to remove and replace any of the hydraulic cylinders.

There are two ways to do this job, the way I chose was to buy a set of replacement cylinders from Top Hydraulics and just replace all five.

You can also get a rebuild kit and that entails drilling out the clips or pins which hold the cylinders together so you can replace the seals. I chose to get rebuilt cylinders from a top rated rebuilding shop because they were recommended and I had a limited time to do the job and did not want to run into an issue with a cylinder with the car apart.

As far as removing other Cir-Clips which hold the pins on the ends of the cylinders that is fairly straight forward, I usually use a fine flat head screwdriver and apply a magnet to the Cir-Clip to keep it from getting lost, i.e. down the vent or under the seats.

-Rob-
 

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Premium Member 2013 SLK250
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Our NC/SC SLK Group had a met where we replaced the "O" ring in the top cylinder on several 170's one Saturday. I would suggest to do the "O" ring replacement over removing the cylinder and lines. If you are a DIY it is a simple replacement. There are many post of do this. Generally it is only the front top that goes bad.
 
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