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Found a procedure for the R171, but nothing for the R170. Until I can redo the job and take some pictures, here is a link to the R171 procedure

Just done my R170 boot/trunk gas struts, using a procedure almost indistinguishable from the R171 procedure.
Some points:
  • R170 boot/trunk gas struts are 170-750-00-36
  • R170 do not have the extension limits buffers; you can just push the boot lid up a bit and the struts will fit without compression.
  • As usual, worth comparing the new struts with the installed ones before you start. And replace them one at a time to allow you to check the other side for comparison.
  • You can pull off the clips from each end quite easily; when under pressure, the ball joints do not pop out. Probably best to do both end of one strut, fit the replacement, and then do both ends of the other strut, to be safe. I pulled mine off completely, using a straight blade screwdriver and levering against the back of the ball joint. (If you are pulling, rather than levering, then the ball joint *could* separate)
  • Remove one, and then fit the replacement, then repeat for the other side.
  • You don't need to ease the clips at all to install; they spring on with moderate pressure. Key thing; don't press on the clip (which needs room to "spring") but press on the body/shaft adjacent.
  • Your new struts probably have both ball joint entrances facing in the same direction; once you have fitted one end (easier with the rod end first), turn the other end (the cylinder, so easier to grip and turn by hand) clockwise (ie to tighten) until you have reached the alignment for the other ball joint. If you don't, you may slacken the mounting thread in the plastic ball housing, and that is often a weak point; they have previously broken on another car I have.
Hope this helps; the task is so quick, finding the screwdriver and opening the packaging takes longer than fitting the struts.

 

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Discussion Starter #2
Pictures at last!

Some pictures of the change process.
Simple one to start; check the new and old gas struts match.
Release the top spring clip to ease removal.
Release the bottom spring clip to ease removal. (Note strut will stay in place without spring clip)
Lubricate the ball before fitting the new strut. (Using a lithium grease will avoid degradation of the plastic)
When fitting the new strut, hold by the gas cylinder, so the spring clip has room to move, but you do not need to release the clip to install it.

For me, once the first strut was installed, the boot lid stayed up on that one alone, so made the photographs much easier with the second strut.

(BTW, kudos to the guys who do a proper DIY sequence; getting the camera, spanners and everything in the right place and cleanliness increases the complexity no end)
 

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Some pictures of the change process.
Simple one to start; check the new and old gas struts match.
Release the top spring clip to ease removal.
Release the bottom spring clip to ease removal. (Note strut will stay in place without spring clip)
Lubricate the ball before fitting the new strut. (Using a lithium grease will avoid degradation of the plastic)
When fitting the new strut, hold by the gas cylinder, so the spring clip has room to move, but you do not need to release the clip to install it.

For me, once the first strut was installed, the boot lid stayed up on that one alone, so made the photographs much easier with the second strut.

(BTW, kudos to the guys who do a proper DIY sequence; getting the camera, spanners and everything in the right place and cleanliness increases the complexity no end)

Nice one mate! 'Big help' with pictures...Thanks very much.
 

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Brilliant! thank you very much, order my new struts the other day and have been stressing after looking at my current ones on how to take off, big thanks man
 

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10 minutes if you take a 5 minute break. :)
 

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Yep.. best thing I ever did. And because of this, I also realized that the jeep liftgate needed it done too. But cost 2x as much as the mb oem parts..can you believe that.
 

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A GREAT thread Thank You! Once I knew it was so easy I bought a pair of new struts from eBay for under £20 ($30) and took the full 5mins to fit them. Now the boot (trunk) doesn't try to slam on my head anymore!Y)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
In amongst the replacement of the struts, I have seen no mention of the idea of oiling the hinges of the complex mechanism that supports the boot lid.
If you can get just a drop into each of the hinge points, the strut will have an easier life, and so will hold up more robustly. However, the movement will have less friction, so the movement will be more "extreme" and hence either upwards or downwards (either side of the blance point).
And there should be no squeak, groan or other untoward noise; the silent boot-lid of death will get you before you hear it coming! ;)
 

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Wish I could get them for $19 each. Just called my MB dealer. $75 for the pair. Maybe cause it's Canada? Things are more costly to transport by dog sled. lol
 

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Wish I could get them for $19 each. Just called my MB dealer. $75 for the pair. Maybe cause it's Canada? Things are more costly to transport by dog sled. lol
Why would you get them from the dealer? They're only struts! try the local autozones or auto parts stores ;)
 

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Generic strut source?

Wish I could get them for $19 each. Just called my MB dealer. $75 for the pair. Maybe cause it's Canada? Things are more costly to transport by dog sled. lol
Why would you get them from the dealer? They're only struts! try the local autozones or auto parts stores ;)
Or even eBay.
Once the loading and throw have been determined, you can then use any source of struts. (I bought some from eBay for up-and-over cupboard doors, and then fitted them to get the correct force; in this case, you need to get (at least) the correct force to hold up the boot lid, since you cannot adjust the locations)
Interesting that nobody has reported the strut length, throw and nominal force.
 

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Or even eBay.
Once the loading and throw have been determined, you can then use any source of struts. (I bought some from eBay for up-and-over cupboard doors, and then fitted them to get the correct force; in this case, you need to get (at least) the correct force to hold up the boot lid, since you cannot adjust the locations)
Interesting that nobody has reported the strut length, throw and nominal force.
OR.....

You can just look on eBay for SLK boot/trunk struts!
 

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Or even eBay.
Once the loading and throw have been determined, you can then use any source of struts. (I bought some from eBay for up-and-over cupboard doors, and then fitted them to get the correct force; in this case, you need to get (at least) the correct force to hold up the boot lid, since you cannot adjust the locations)
Interesting that nobody has reported the strut length, throw and nominal force.
OR.....

You can just look on eBay for SLK boot/trunk struts!
I need to edit for emphasis:

Or even eBay.


Once the loading and throw have been determined, ...
Certainly, I got my struts from eBay in the manner you describe. Approx 20 GBP for the pair.
 
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