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Registered 2002 SLK230 Kompressor
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69 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Thought I would start a little 'diary' thread as I bring my 2002 R170 230K back to the road. Introducing 'Genevieve', I purchased her from my very good friend. From whom I rent workshop space. He bought the car as a non runner with the intention to get it running and flip it on for a quick profit. Here are a few of pics from the advert he saw.

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Looks quite nice from a distance!

My good friend replaced the K40 module and the car would then start. But not shift out of park. After he had done that he showed me a picture of it. What he didn't know was that for the last few months, everytime I have seen an R170 on the road. I have thought to myself.... "I really like those. I should get one". So I told him to stop fixing it any more so that I could have it off him cheap! I don't know what he paid for her but he let me have her for £700

That, ladies and gents, is proper 'hooptie' money. In the words of Tyler Hoover of 'Hoovies Garage' fame "I have bought the cheapest SLK in the UK". Except I don't have a 'car wizard' to dump it on to fix it. I do have my good friend that i bought it from though and he's not adverse to spinning spanners and helping me fix things.

Here's my 'snag list', as purchased -
Gearbox, thunks into park and pan shows evidence of a leak about the park interlock lever.
SRS warning lamp
ESP/ABS Warning Lamp
Blown Bulb Warning Lamp
Interior lights inoperative
NSF Foglamp Smashed
Siren Sounds constantly unless Fuse 9 removed
PSE unit in boot shows signs of water ingress
Exterior Temp display reads -38c
Coolant level sensor has open circuit
Boot lid gas struts faulty
Exhaust system very rusty and shows signs of a previous repair
Body rust to rear arches, front arches, windscreen surround
Brake lights inoperable/vehicle will not shift out of park
Vario roof functional but possibly a little slow

First step, fire up the diag!


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Ok it's not a 'proper' STAR system but it does the trick for basic stuff. Conclusions drawn were -
OSR Wheel Speed Sensor faulty
Ext Temp sensor Faulty
Coolant Level Sensor Faulty
Passenger Seat Occupancy Sensor Faulty

What I've done/fixed/tried so far -
Removed/Reinstalled/Recalibrated brake pedal switch. Vehicle now moves out of park.
OSR wheel speed sensor replaced. ESP/ABS warning light now extinguishes.
Ext Temp sensor replaced - Fault remains
Coolant level sensor - On order
Front Fog Lights - On order
Passenger seat occupancy sensor bypass - On order
Interior light unit removed, repaired, reinstalled. Now working.
Bulb failure warning - Traced to LED rear number plate lamp bulb 'upgrade'. Removed and swapped for appropriate festoon bulbs. Warning light extinguished.
Boot lid gas struts - Replaced with new units.
Rust - Booked in with bodyshop for localised remediation and respray. Just awaiting a diary date
Gearbox - Service kit ordered. Awaiting the 2-post at the workshop being free for a few hours
Service items - Disks/Pads/Oil/Filters/Spark Plugs ordered. Again awiting 2-post availability window
Siren opened and repair attempted. Sadly battery had eaten the PCB. Replacement siren to be ordered
Fuse box latches replaced with 3d printed replacements
SmartTOP module - On the desk waiting to be installed

That brings us up to date I think!



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She's got vehicle excise duty, MOT for another ninety days, and I've added her to my insurance. Just a few more things to cross off the snag list and she can go into daily service. Then 'Whisper' my 250bhp supercharged MX-5 can be reserved for high days and holidays!

Thanks for reading and, I guess, stay tuned for updates?


#ProjectGenevieve
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How much is a bigger crank pulley....................?
 

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Registered 1997 SLK230 Kompressor
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233 Posts
The remap is extra.......
And if you need to refurbish the hydraulics that may dull your appetite. Pull the headlights and have a look at the bottom of the front wings where it sits above the front bumper. If the backs are rusting you may need to think about the fronts. I've got pieces missing. PO had dealt with it fairly well but it won't last, that's for sure.
 

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Registered 2002 SLK230 Kompressor
Joined
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69 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
The remap is extra.......
And if you need to refurbish the hydraulics that may dull your appetite. Pull the headlights and have a look at the bottom of the front wings where it sits above the front bumper. If the backs are rusting you may need to think about the fronts. I've got pieces missing. PO had dealt with it fairly well but it won't last, that's for sure.

Yep the front wings are rotten too :( It's on the list ;)


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Registered 2002 SLK230 Kompressor
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69 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Good to see another Project Thread on the go ;)

Did you change the Brake Light Switch, Brake Lights not working and not coming out of Park is a classic sign of a dud Switch ;)

HTH,
Worked fine after re-installing it. I suspect it had been replaced as it looked new. But the pedal was not depressed as it was installed. Once I reset it, it was fine.
 

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Registered 2002 SLK230 Kompressor
Joined
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69 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
I’ve seen a few people that have done double din conversions. But no one ever moves the heater controls down. I find myself wondering what they know that I don’t.
 

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Premium Member 2001 SLK200K/2001 SLK320
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1,598 Posts
I’ve seen a few people that have done double din conversions. But no one ever moves the heater controls down. I find myself wondering what they know that I don’t.
The fingers in the back of the HVAC Module have to slot perfectly into the receptacle thingummies on the actual heater unit .. would be too much of a faff and too difficult for most to relocate elsewhere ..

However .. Look for a thread started by @kevvy .. he changed his about a bit :cool:
 

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Registered 2002 SLK320
Joined
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2,015 Posts
The biggest problem is the Heater "Box" physical size, I looked at it, but would require completely removing Dash to get it out, then a complete re design, as they are such a good HVAC from standard I feel it would be a downgrade, not worth it IMHO ;)
 

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Registered 2002 SLK230 Kompressor
Joined
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69 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
The fingers in the back of the HVAC Module have to slot perfectly into the receptacle thingummies on the actual heater unit .. would be too much of a faff and too difficult for most to relocate elsewhere ..

However .. Look for a thread started by @kevvy .. he changed his about a bit :cool:
A few YouTube’s later and I’ve seen the two white finger doodads. That makes relocating the controls almost impossible! I’m going to have to ponder the options.........
 

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Registered 2002 SLK320
Joined
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2,015 Posts
I’m going to have to ponder the options.........
Hi,

Whether going Double Din or 'Factory Fit' like mine the only (fairly easy) way to do it is to lose the Ashtray and little Cubby Hole, relocate the Switches pack lower and then you have space for the H/U ;)

HTH,
 

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Registered 2002 SLK230 Kompressor
Joined
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69 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Hi,

Whether going Double Din or 'Factory Fit' like mine the only (fairly easy) way to do it is to lose the Ashtray and little Cubby Hole, relocate the Switches pack lower and then you have space for the H/U ;)

HTH,
if I do it, it won’t be a traditional head unit. It will be an iPad side slider dock :cool:

 
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