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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
I just got back from Hawaii and found my new WR waiting for me; after a good night sleep I installed it. :)
But now I have a problem.
I can adjust the light intensity for running and brake lights, but after stepping on the brakes the light will switch off after about a second; the running light will be off also. After a few more seconds the light will come back on. After keeping my foot on the brakes for an extended time the brake lights cycled on for about three times and stayed off; I got a warning in my display letting me know that the left rear side marker (LED?) had a problem, it was off.
I turned off the ignition, disconnected the control unit and turned the ignition back on… the side marker was back on (I was very relieved).
I looked at the control unit and noted that some of the soldering could possibly contact the backing plate; I placed insulation over the soldering and tried again with the same result.
The only deviation I found between the instructions and my car is that the wire, called in the instruction red/black, is black/red (but in the same depicted location)
Help!:confused:
 

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What's WR?
 

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We can be contacted at [email protected] or by calling

972-487-5987. Check your PM for a possible solution to this problem and please get back with us asap if the problem continues. Also, if the problem persists please let us know the exact model of your slk when contacting us. I've personally installed over 100 brake lamp modules on various types of roadsters and am confident we can get this working for you like you want. :)
 

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:)With the help from the good people of ‘Windrestrictor’ everything is working perfect. :)
If anyone else is running into similar problems, they have the answers
What was the underlying problem and what was the solution or fix? (curious).
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Well, I think the problem is advanced technology.
We no longer use simple relays to operate all the electrical devices. For some functions we like to have feedback; in computerized systems a simple way to do this is to monitor consumption; if the consumption is within parameters all is well and power is supplied. If you are outside the parameters power is cut and a warning is given.
In this example, remove the connector from the tail light assy. and try to identify the wires the old fashion way by using a telltale light; it will not work. The control unit reacts too quickly and will cut the power because the telltales light consumption is outside the expected parameter; add to this that most of the lights in the rear are LED’s; low power consumption but also low resistance; it is easy to get outside the parameters.
As it turned out the normal way to connect the WR control unit, one connection to the running lights and one connection to the brake lights, created a fault and power was cut.
On my car the standing lights, running lights and brake lights are all LED’s, the standing lights and running/brake are separate circuits; running and brake light intensity are controlled by supplied power from the controller. Installation of the WR controller the normal way (separate inputs from running (standing) and brake lights) causes the cars controller to identify it as a fault and it cuts the power. But connecting both inputs for the WR controller to the supply wire for the running/brake lights is not causing a fault… and it works.:)
The only drawback is that the WR running light setting can not be adjusted above a medium level.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I re-read the post a couple of times and decided that perimeter is probably parameter?
And right you are; and it is corrected. Thanks :hail:
Without a spell checker I can’t write, but at times it makes the wrong interpretation of my misspelling; and then there is the dreaded “Global Comment”
 

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Well, I think the problem is advanced technology.
We no longer use simple relays to operate all the electrical devices. For some functions we like to have feedback; in computerized systems a simple way to do this is to monitor consumption; if the consumption is within parameters all is well and power is supplied. If you are outside the parameters power is cut and a warning is given.
In this example, remove the connector from the tail light assy. and try to identify the wires the old fashion way by using a telltale light; it will not work. The control unit reacts too quickly and will cut the power because the telltales light consumption is outside the expected parameter; add to this that most of the lights in the rear are LED’s; low power consumption but also low resistance; it is easy to get outside the parameters.
As it turned out the normal way to connect the WR control unit, one connection to the running lights and one connection to the brake lights, created a fault and power was cut.
On my car the standing lights, running lights and brake lights are all LED’s, the standing lights and running/brake are separate circuits; running and brake light intensity are controlled by supplied power from the controller. Installation of the WR controller the normal way (separate inputs from running (standing) and brake lights) causes the cars controller to identify it as a fault and it cuts the power. But connecting both inputs for the WR controller to the supply wire for the running/brake lights is not causing a fault… and it works.:)
The only drawback is that the WR running light setting can not be adjusted above a medium level.
Bottom line...buy an R170...less electronic hoop jumping. :D That was a thorough explanation though. :tu:

I re-read the post a couple of times and decided that perimeter is probably parameter?
LMAO...:biglaugh:
 

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A picture of the installed controller for the WR
I was thinking of running a new wire to clamp onto the brake/running light wire, then clamp the Blue and the Brown wires to that new wire, each with their own clamps.

Do you see any issue with wiring it this way?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I was thinking of running a new wire to clamp onto the brake/running light wire, then clamp the Blue and the Brown wires to that new wire, each with their own clamps.

Do you see any issue with wiring it this way?
You can combine the two input wires from the controller at any point and connect them as one to the running/brake light wire.
 

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ELK + BLM Information

When trying the above with the ELK(Extreme Lighting Kit) + BLM;

Failed Config #1

I've wired the BLM as you've suggested; Attach both BLM-Brown & BLM-Blue wires to the Car-Brake-Light wire[grey/blake]. But I am getting the "tail left light aux" error on my dash that I think you described when you were wiring them separately, this error then comes up after the WR powers on for a second, then the WR goes off, and so does the brake lights for that side of the car, they remain off until I clear the error which requires I turn the BLM toggle switch to the OFF or 9V DC power option (anything that disables the BLM to that circuit).

Even in this setup, my Windrestrictor doesn't power on until I turn the BLM knob about 75% of the way, at which point it powers on and then instantly trips the "tail left light aux" error. Until it trips the error, the WR does not power on, at all. The WR then proceeds to power on and off every often.

Using the 9V DC power option, the WR works tho, so the wiring on the WR seems correct enough to light up.

Failed Config #2

Giving up on using the BLM I decided to just wire the extreme lightning kit(ELK) without the BLM to test my wiring. Unfortunately I got the same result as before. I did get a slightly different error code on the console since I'm running the +12V from the running lights wire on the harness instead of the brake light wire in this configuration with the ELK only. I'd start the car and the WR would come on for a moment, then go off, then go on/off, while a status error code would appear on my dash.

*** UPDATE ***


After talking to the great folks @ Windrestrictor.com, I learned ELK Lighting kits require more power than the single color WRs, so odds are I'm going to need to provide the 12V+ power from a source other than the harness.

It would make sense given what the original poster said about the R171's tolerances for voltage changes to the wires in the harness.

Tonight I will just tap into one of the 12V fuses in my console and run a wire to the trunk, in theory this will provide the WR will all the juice it needs, and if it works without issue, I can go back to finding a way to use the BLM.

I have attached the SLK R171 Fuse Box Mappings for all 3 Fuse Boxes.
 

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SOLUTION - HOW TO WIRE ELK+BLM on R171

**** UPDATE & SOLUTION for ELK+BLM on the R171 ****

So tonight I was able to successfully wire up the ELK(Extreme Lighting Kit) + BLM(Brake Light Module) on a SLK55 R171, with no issues.

The trick is to connect the Blue wire off the BLM to the Grey/Black (Brake Wire) as normal, and to connect the Brown wire off the BLM to your trunk fuse box, I recommend using Fuse #14 as it is only ON when the key is turned to the ON position in the ignition and the fuse #14 slot was empty/unused in my SLK55. (see my previous post in thread for an attachment with the complete fuse box mapping for all 3 fuse boxes in the SLK R171). If you look in the pictures below, my ELK (silver box) is directly above where your trunk fuse box is located in the R171.

By giving the Windrestrictor access to a full 12V circuit,I can run the ELK+BLM at full power/brightness.

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PropDr, you mentioned with your wiring setup that you can't get your WR to go at full brightness, so I would suggest you try re-wiring your BLM's brown wire to Fuse #14 in your trunk fusebox and posting your results :)

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Pictures of setup posted below, I'll try to upload less blurry pics in the daylight. All my wiring is pretty invisible... I'm anal about that sort of thing.
 

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Nullsign thank you very much for not giving up! Also, thank you for posting up this very useful information. I would love some photos if you are ever back in the neighborhood. I'm very thankful that we now have a good solution for the BLM/ELK combo. I'd love to take a video of how those accessories work together with our product. :)

Have a wonderful weekend everyone!


Stephen
 

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Nullsign thank you very much for not giving up! Also, thank you for posting up this very useful information. I would love some photos if you are ever back in the neighborhood. I'm very thankful that we now have a good solution for the BLM/ELK combo. I'd love to take a video of how those accessories work together with our product. :)

Have a wonderful weekend everyone!


Stephen
Sure thing.

You make a fine product, the images of them online really don't do them justice. :)

Amazing construction, edging, good metal backing, fits perfectly, doesn't rattle/move, stops the wind as it should... I could go on and on....
 
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