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Discussion Starter #1
Ok guys..so I did end up tracking down my problem, and it was the secondary check valve...

here is the problem..it was so rusted, valve would not budge...sprayed with rust loosener , then was twisting so hard I sheered the top of the check valve off....

Ok great, I thought, least I can get a breaker bar on there now....NOPE...all that did was twist the steel tube going into the check valve...

so now here is my problem, I am stuck with a sheered off secondary check valve (new one sitting in garage)...and metal tube going into check valve probably needs replaced now.

1) does anyone have the part number for this metal tube (see attached photo), you can also see bracket was twisted I was trying to turn so hard.

2) does anyone know the easiest way to access this tube from the bottom...I hate to ask this question, I just can't fiddle around with this as I just had back surgery, and my back is already on fire now (will be icing it the rest of the day)..so the less exploratory surgery I have to do, the better..as its very hard for me even to get on the ground right now..much less up/down, up/down..etc...

**GREEN ARROW IS TWISTED TUBE I NEED PART NUMBER FOR AND HELP WITH HOW TO ACCESS

***RED ARROW IS SHEERED OFF SECONDARY CHECK VALVE.

Thank you for any help!!!
 

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aka John
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Not a R170 guy, but more than willing to try and track down the parts. Can you post a higher resolution photo, and were exactly in the car is the check valve?
 

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Not a R170 guy, but more than willing to try and track down the parts. Can you post a higher resolution photo, and were exactly in the car is the check valve?

Ok here you go, 2 high res images, broke out my Nikon..LOL

1) far away image so you can get idea where it is
2) close up image

**from my understanding the check valve is used to heat O2 sensors up quicker, from a kompressor engine, since the clutch on the supercharger is engaged on cold start. Was having bad cold start issues for first start of the day, upon examination of "secondary check valve"..completely rusted...so this had to be my problem, was not allowing air to pass so much rust and crap in the valve...could dump it out in my hand once the top sheered off.

problem like I said, is not only is the rest of the check valve not comming off, even with breaker bar...but the metal tube its attached too is now fubar'd...
 

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aka John
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Hey Mavrick - is your new check valve part A0021406860? If so :

The lower tube appears to come with the bracket, and is part number A1112304956. There's also a sealing ring between the tube and the check valve, N007603022100. Shoot me a PM with your VIN and I should be able to verify these are the right ones..
 

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Hey Mavrick - is your new check valve part A0021406860? If so :

The lower tube appears to come with the bracket, and is part number A1112304956. There's also a sealing ring between the tube and the check valve, N007603022100. Shoot me a PM with your VIN and I should be able to verify these are the right ones..

hell yes, looks like you found it, thank you so much. now the problem is how to access bolt #47..dont think I can get my hand down from the top. I know it sounds stupid, but I only get one crack at it, had L4/L5, L5/S1 fused, with 6 inch rod, and 5 screws...so if I work on car for more then a hour , I will have to ice my back for a day or two before I can crawl back under....so trying to get my plan of attack before I do it. I know, sounds dumb...but damn I never knew how much your back affected everything of your daily life.
 

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aka John
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Best of luck, as on our PM exchange, your VIN confirms those part numbers. I've no experience working on a R170, so have no idea what you are in for!

Treat the back gently - I'm sure you want to enjoy her after you get it running again!! ;-)
 

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OMG maybe the guy gave me the wrong price, or maybe i just need to figure a way to make this work without this tube....but I dont think my I can still be mentally sane and pay $250.00 for this 9 inch, aluminum hollow tube with a bolt....and thats all it is.

Ok next idea, so I got it off...and the only damnage is from where the check valve is rusted and and pipe is twisted at top....

maybe I can use a braided line, with some sort of adaptor... do they make compression fittings for stainless steel lines..so I could attach to the smooth shank of that metal tube... (picture if I sawed off the threading and old valve)

Or maybe the dealership was just jerking me around...but can't find this part online, I have googled the number with nothing much for results.
 

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Parts.com has the A1112304956 pipe for $166.75 (and claims the list price is $242). Not sure if that is enough of a discount, as it does seem like a simple part.
 

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Parts.com has the A1112304956 pipe for $166.75 (and claims the list price is $242). Not sure if that is enough of a discount, as it does seem like a simple part.
....thats getting much better... ok what am I doing wrong, I put that exact part number in the search @ parts.com...and I get nothing... this could be a problem why I am having trouble finding the part online. LOL

ok had to edit this....took the A out of the part number and it came up..thanks again
 

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Hey Mavrick - is your new check valve part A0021406860? If so :

The lower tube appears to come with the bracket, and is part number A1112304956. There's also a sealing ring between the tube and the check valve, N007603022100. Shoot me a PM with your VIN and I should be able to verify these are the right ones..

ok..so I have a little problem. I called the dealer and they verified this was the part number..and parts.com had this part as well. the diagram looked at little off via how it connects to the motor using bolt #47..but I figured maybe its the diagram thats just a little screwy and this was the part since, everyone verified its the part.

the attached part is the one where the check valve is sheered off, but did not zoom in close enough so you could see where the bracket is bent to crap, and the pipe is pinched and twisted by the bracket...even my buddy (full time mechanic) said he would advise against trying to reuse this part.... so needs to be replaced.
Just got a email this morning from parts.com saying based off my vin this was the wrong part. So ATTACH is a picture of how the ACTUAL PART LOOKS...hope someone can help me on this..but according to parts.com part number #A1112304956 is wrong. The diagram showed a bolt, but obviously from my picture you can see its just a nut that fits over the tube that attaches it to the motor.. not sure what do do here... even the year make and model say it should be the part number given to me (thanks for trying)..but my VIN says different.. starting to think I have some hybrid or something. LOL
 

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OK finally got it figured out.... so this is kinda screwy... might help some of you. so they make the part number we talked about in the 98-00 slk230.... however in SOME 99-00 slk 230's they used the following part number...attached is correct diagram..
#1112305356
 

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LAST UPDATE........Car is up and running, runs perfect no cold start issues. I wanted to post this in case anybody in the future is doing a search....

Car symptoms: first start of the day when engine is extremely cold, about 10-15 seconds bad cold start problems, sounds like only 1-2 plugs are firing, then after 15 seconds car levels out and runs fine. EVERY OTHER START OF THE DAY after that is completely normal and no problems (before engine cools off lets say after 6-8 hours)

Solution (in my case): Your secondary check valve is most likely clogged or rusted, mine was BOTH. This also cause the metal tube to become very clogged. This runs gases down to your 02 sensors to heat them up and level your fuel map out on cold starts, i.e. why you have issues when its clogged. Solution, you may be able to get by with just replacing the check valve (70 dollar part)... if that check valve is rusted on (mine was) or you feel some rust may have traveled down the metal pipe you may wanna replace that too.(160 dollars from parts.com, dealer 242).... then only thing you need is to replace the washer too (1 dollar part)... total cost for this job $231 dollars. CAR RUNS PERFECT NOW.

how to do it?
1) remove air box, and all intake tubes.
2) remove lines from oil seperator
3)unplug water pump sensor, 2 bolts that hold it on, and 2 lines running in and out of it.
4) you now should have easy access to the bolt that hold on the check valve, its 27MM. TURN towards front of car (lefty loosey).... if you start bending the bracket that hold check valve or top sheers off, most likely it is rusted in place.

5) If check valve is rusted, put your car up on jack stands, remove under carriage shield, on passenger side of car, looking up from underneath, you should see where the metal tube goes. once again 27mm wrench will remove this pipe. I suggest having your wife do it, if you have bigger forearms, LOL. This is VERY EASY, almost easier then trying to even remove the check valve...once loose, slide pipe out from top side of car and dont even worry about trying to get check valve out.

6) go buy your pipe, washer, and check valve....assemble first, then slide down from top and work in reverse order.

Hope this helps!!!!!

p.s. since you took your water pump off, you will have air pockets in your antifreeze lines and a mess on your motor, so be prepared for some smoke when it first starts burning off that antifreeze you spilled on your motor. I would also suggest buying some anti freeze, as your probably gonna need a half gallon or less/more.

**if you look at post #12..the parts I am refering to are #38,#41,#45. your car may have the other tube, listed earlier in this thread, but wont know till ya get it off.
 
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