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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,

I recently purchased a 2001 slk200 in the UK, everything was fine for a few weeks but then got a CEL. I had it diagnosed and it turns out to be a P0410 - secondary air injection system - error.

I have had a good google and youtube browse, and I can find plenty of info, but nothing (fuse diagrams, description of parts etc) seems to match up to my car.

From what I have read the problem can be caused by any number of things, so I first tried to find the fuse for the pump/heater (whatever the device is), but I cannot find any info for where the fuse on a R170 would be. Then tried to locate the pump/heater, I guessed it would be on the outlet manifold, so took off the air filter box to gain access to it, but couldn't see anything which attaches to the outlet manifold. So then thought it might attach to the inlet manifold and blow hot air through the engine, removed the plastic engine covers and still couldn't see anything.

I did find a valve with vacuum hose attached, located above the fuel rail, with one end attached to the air inlet pipe. I took that off, checked that there was suction on the vacuum hose, there was, and checked that I could blow through the value when a vacuum was applied to it, and I could easily. So I think that the valve is fine (if that valve does have anything to do with it).

I then expected for there to be air blowing out of the hose going to that inlet of that valve, but when I started the engine, there isn't...

I guess my question is, on a supercharged R170 engine, is there an air pump/heater? And does anybody know where it, and its fuse are located? And does anybody have any other suggestions of things to try?

Thanks everyone.
 

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Administrator 2009 SLK 55 AMG/Founding Member 2006
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moving to the general discussion section

The DIY section is for already created DIYs only.
If your question pertains to a procedure in a DIY, please post the question in that thread.
Someone will respond if they can assist and answer your questions and
will point you to a DIY if one is already made.
 

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Here's one possible solution

It's for C230 but the concept is similar.
Might be the check valve got clogged up since oil residue does get into the air system over time due to it being contained in the vapors.

Bradley has a DIY on how to replace this check valve. It's located towards the back side of the engine. You'll see it when you pop the plastic cover off the fuel rail line. There are two check valves (If I get it properly): one on top (easier to get to) and the other on the back side of the engine (a little harder to get to)
See if you can get there and clean those (or replace).

Another thought - can it be a dirty MAF??? ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Cheers for the link, that's one I've watched before :) ... The guy says he put water in and it wouldn't pass through, but I've checked the value near the fuel rail, and when I put a vacuum hose to it, I can pass air through easily, so I'm guessing that ones OK? ... When I start the engine though, there doesn't seem to be any air flowing to the inlet of that valve ... Should there be??
 

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Cheer for the link, that's one I've watched before :) ... The guy says he put water in and it wouldn't pass through, but I've checked the value near the fuel rail, and when I put a vacuum hose to it, I can pass air through easily, so I'm guessing that ones OK? ... When I start the engine though, there doesn't seem to be any air flowing to the inlet of that valve ... Should there be??
Here's the link with DIY:
http://www.slkworld.com/slk-r170-class-diy/32102-bought-new-check-valve-shut-off-valve.html
I have no idea how vacuum operates but I told you my best guess.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hi guys, I've had half an hour to have a tinker tonight and thought I'd post some photos. Below are some photos of my engine bay. I can't see anything on the air inlet side of the engine, but in the last picture I've highlighted the valve which I'm pretty sure is fine.



I've just spotted that on this valve (or whatever it is) the outlet hose goes to another connection, which in the previous link to the DIY section, looks like it could be another valve for me to check. My question though is, should there be air flowing through the inlet hose to the highlighted valve? I disconnected the hose, started the car and there wasn't any air flowing through it?

Either way I'll check the other inline valve (which you cannot see in these photos) this weekend, and hopefully it will be that which is causing the problem and I can just replace it.

Cheers everyone.
 

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