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2002 SLK320
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48 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

Did my first oil change on the new to me 2001 SLK320 (just hit 100k miles running/driving flawlessly). Used a Mercedes OEM filter with new o-rings and went with Mobile 1 0W-40 Euro for the winter. (might use 5W-30 in the summer we'll see).

Anyway, on a very level surface I ended up with a little bit too much oil added. I'd say an 1/8" over the full mark on the dipstick. Still below the top of the red plastic. I have run the car and checked for aerated/frothy oil and it looks clean and clear.

Do I really need to worry about this at all? I really don't want to drain and refill 8 quarts of expensive oil and I don't have the means/tools to suck any out. I have no idea what volume of oil an extra 1/8" on the dipstick translates to. I suspect there has to be some fudge factor/tolerance involved.

Thanks!
 

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1997 SLK230
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462 Posts
All I can say is that before I retired I had several Mercedes as company cars that were serviced by the supplying MB Dealership and more often than not they would be returned to me with that level of overfill (and a bit more on occasion!) and it never seemed to cause any issue. I appreciate it may be a bit more concerning on a higher mileage engine.

Was the over full measured when hot or cold? - if hot then personally I'd not worry too much.
 

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* Administrator (Premium Member)
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37,102 Posts
Always better to be slightly under, rather than over.
But that question above matters most.
If slightly over when cold, it is more significant.

If you have some tubing, just suck out 500 ml (I doubt it would be more than a litre at most).
Nip to hardware store and find tubing of a wide enough bore that will fit down the dipstick holder.

Too much oil creates pressure. This should be vented down the oil breather. 'Should'.
 

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*Premium Member
1999 SLK230K
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1,006 Posts
To be honest I think that will be fine at that level I used to have an s320 that lived with its oil level over the full mark to some degree never caused me an issue. The amount you have stated should be fine in my opinion I've seen worse. So I wouldn't worry too much about it over an inch would be pushing it but you should be alright at that. If this is the level when warm, if this is the level when cold try to draw some out as stated above. I normally stick to doing my oil level when warm as that's how it is when the engines operating.
 

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*Premium Member
1997 SLK230K
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673 Posts
And don't worry about the oil viscosity. The only disadvantage of using a 0W- when it is warm is that it's expensive and not necessary. There is even an argument that a 0W will pump better at start up when it's warm as well and this is beneficial, although I suspect the benefits are marginal. As far as using 30 or 40 is concerned, use what MB recommend.
 

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**Premium Member '02 R170 SLK V8 5.0 & '00 SLK320
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(might use 5W-30 in the summer we'll see).
You want to use 5 or 10W/40 in Summer and 0W/30 or 40 in Winter, more important is that it meets MB Spec 229.3 ............

You have got your Viscosities backwards ;) The xxW Figure is the Cold index, and the /xx is the Hot index. Oils with bigger difference between the 2 numbers need changing more frequently due to being less resistant to Shear, the Shear resistance of the Oil Molecules is lower, which means it goes outta spec (degrades) faster ;)

In UK on M112 / M113 Engines I use 5W/40 MB spec 229.3 year round, we get cold winters and the odd hot summers ;)

Here endeth the Oil lesson, discussing various Oil Brands as opposed to specs is wasted time it's like Religion :p

HTH ;)
 
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*Premium Member
1997 SLK230K
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There are loads of articles on oil. https://www.kewengineering.co.uk/Auto_oils/oil_viscosity_explained.htm is quite a good one. And there is a lot of folklore and misinformation out there. I used to get a lot of stick for using a full synthetic on a1977 V12 Jag. It was needless to say very happy with the oil. Dave's point about meeting the MB spec is a very important one. The other important point is to use a product from a well known manufacturer since not all viscosity modifiers are created equal and hence resistance to shear will vary. Whether this is covered by the MB spec is something I don't know.
 

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2002 SLK320
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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited by Moderator)
You want to use 5 or 10W/40 in Summer and 0W/30 or 40 in Winter, more important is that it meets MB Spec 229.3 ............

You have got your Viscosities backwards ;) The xxW Figure is the Cold index, and the /xx is the Hot index. Oils with bigger difference between the 2 numbers need changing more frequently due to being less resistant to Shear, the Shear resistance of the Oil Molecules is lower, which means it goes outta spec (degrades) faster ;)

In UK on M112 / M113 Engines I use 5W/40 MB spec 229.3 year round, we get cold winters and the odd hot summers ;)

Here endeth the Oil lesson, discussing various Oil Brands as opposed to specs is wasted time it's like Religion :p

HTH ;)
Thanks for the info. Looks like Mobile 1 0W-40 meets the spec. I will probably just run that year round and change my oil every 5K miles. I don't want to over-think or over-analyze it. So many opinions out there on oil. Mobile 1 is a reputable manufacturer that has been around forever.[/QUOTE]
 

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1997 SLK230
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Consider investing in a vacuum oil extractor to make oil changes a much faster, cleaner and enjoyable job. I was skeptical it would extract all the oil but I found after draining the conventional way I could still vacuum out a small amount of oil but on removing the drain plug after a vacuum extraction nothing came out.

Sent from my SM-T290 using Tapatalk
 

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2008 SLK350
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158 Posts
Thanks for the info. Looks like Mobile 1 0W-40 meets the spec. I will probably just run that year round and change my oil every 5K miles. I don't want to over-think or over-analyze it. So many opinions out there on oil. Mobile 1 is a reputable manufacturer that has been around forever.
A good oil I used to use on my 320. No need to change it that soon as it's rated for long servicing intervals, so it's good for no less than 10K miles/2 years (but you must use it along a fleece filter). The only caveat I found is, the engine tends to drink a bit more of it than other brands/grades (5 or 10w40).

A bit off-topic: whenever I see a "change oil early" comment it comes almost always from a USA person. May it be because in USA mineral/monograde oils (which certainly should be changed "the sooner, the better") were in common use till much later than in Europe?
 

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2002 SLK320
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Consider investing in a vacuum oil extractor to make oil changes a much faster, cleaner and enjoyable job. I was skeptical it would extract all the oil but I found after draining the conventional way I could still vacuum out a small amount of oil but on removing the drain plug after a vacuum extraction nothing came out.

Sent from my SM-T290 using Tapatalk
Do you have a particular oil extraction pump you can recommend? Looks like the electric ones on Amazon have bad reviews and burn out quickly. Hand pump style?
 

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Administrator (Canada)
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A thread I started a few years ago (but did not pursue). There are other makers--Pela for one. Do a "Search Community" using maker names. Lots of hits come up.

 

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