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Jeff
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Administrator - Founding Member since 2006
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94,090 Posts
If a Mercedes battery, it is only warrantied for 2 years anyway :D
get it tested or buy a new one
 

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11,246 Posts
Hi Tony, and welcome to SLKWorld.com from the UK Midlands - Thanks for joining us and posting an intro! :)

As Jeff has already suggested, it would be good to get the battery checked properly. Also, check the cable connections on/to the battery are secure too, especially the earth connection.

We have quite a few members in the UK that like to meet up from time to time, although things are a little quieter during the winter months. If you're interested in joining us sometime, just keep an eye on the UK Region section, as we post meeting plans there (theres a meet at Oswestry tomorrow morning)! :tu:

There's a summary post that I maintain for all UK meets here, and links to examples and pictures from this year's past meets are available here.

Finally, we also recently started plotting where our UK members are - check out the thread for that here: SLKWorld UK & Ireland Members and Meeting Points Map

Thank you
Dave
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Welcome from the Sacramento Valley SLK Enthusiasts!
 

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Hi Tony,

Welcome from the Wirral.

We're heading to Oswestry, not too far from you tomorrow.
http://www.slkworld.com/united-kingdom-region/376745-oswestry-meet-18th-december-2016-a.html

Only going to be a few of us.

You need to run a meter on the battery. Age is a guide but not a guarantee.
A lot depends on how much drain you make with electric seats, heating roof up and down and length
of journey.

One sentence that crops up regular as clockwork for electrics issues:
'The SLK needs a great battery, not a good one'.
The number of times that a new battery solves the problem is quite suprising.
 

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215 Posts
Two things I would check if the battery checks out good. The first is that the connection of the low current wire at the alternator is good. On mine the wire was broken inside the rubber sleeve over the crimped on connection. So looked OK but no electrical connection. This stops the charge and other indicators on the dash working properly. The second is the crash relay which I think you will have on a 1998. If this isn't working the battery is isolated from the rest of the car so won't be "seeing" the alternator and won't charge. It's mounted on the driver side (UK) wing. The voltage on the two high current terminals should be the same with the engine running and alternator producing its 14 volts. Good luck sorting it.

Sent from my SM-T710 using Tapatalk
 
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