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Discussion Starter #1
I called around and got quotes for new brakes and rotors installed. To say I had "sticker shock" would be more than an understatement. I got quotes from $550, (if the rotors were turned only) on up to $1100!
Being retired and living on SS and VA benefits, it wasn't in the cards. I decided to start looking at videos on line, and finally between posts here and on u-tube, felt as though I could do it myself.
I went on line to AutoZone, and found their carbon steel rotors, and the upper end Duralast pads. If ordered on line, got a 20% discount and free shipping, with return privileges to the store.
All the items had a better guarantee than the quoted jobs, and I took on the task.
It took me about 5 hours, doing it one wheel at a time, and making sure I was doing it correctly. I would guess each, caliper, bracket, mounting hardware etc took me 15 minutes per wheel to clean up and lube where needed. The rest of the time was just the process of jacking up the car, putting a safety stand under it, pulling everything, remounting etc.
When all done, it took two pumps on the pedal and I had nice firm feel, started the car, turned the wheels to full lock in both directions to clear the error code, and was done.
Keep in mind, I am going in for back surgery soon, am 70 years old, and have never don brakes before. So don't be afraid to dive in and look at stuff. If I had google when I was younger, I would have probably tackled just about anything.
P.S. I just took the car out for a 110 mile test drive, through the mountains of Colorado, and am still here, so I think I did OK
 

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For me it is a matter of budgeting. If I am going to be able to keep this car and my wife and I get to enjoy it, it will require me sucking it up and attempting these things myself.
So far I have updated the outside mirrors with newer arrow mirrors and wired the puddle light which didn't exist before, then I replaced the trunk struts, pulled the drivers seat and had the bolster redone, and now the brakes.
In the next few weeks I may be going in for back surgery, and hopefully it will be easier after that.
 

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So, I too was planning on replacing front rotors and brakes on my 2012 SLK 250. Just for fun got a quote from the local dealership. Wow, just front brakes and rotors for just under $1,000.00. I bought factory rotors and pads from the dealership for $400.00. Took me two hours of moving quite slowly and taking many breaks; done with the front pads and rotors. I don't make $300.00 an hour so it was really worth my time. Also, some good bonding time. I had purchased a floor jack and the jack pad adapter so jacking was really easy and caused no damage. Wheels off, no problem. Caliper bolts no problem, caliper bracket bolts a l,ittle tight. Rotors off, easy. Rotors on, easy. Pads off, easy. Pads on, easy. Everything was laid out logically and was well designed. I just want to encourage everyone to change your own rotors and pads, it is not that hard. The rotors came with the grey anti-corrosion paint. From what I read, just leave it on. I did and all seems fine.

Thanks for all the help here on this site.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So, The rotors came with the grey anti-corrosion paint. From what I read, just leave it on. I did and all seems fine.

Thanks for all the help here on this site.
I am not sure I agree with leaving the protective film on the rotors. It is a petroleum base protectant, designed to keep the rotors from rusting after the grinding process. I would think it would affect the surface of the pads, in a way that impacts on the stopping efficiency.
I know how hard it is to work on something like this if you have back issues or something else, but I would be very careful braking until the glaze is burned off from use. I still would expect that you would have a glaze on the pads to deal with, which may be addressed with a brake dressing spray.
If you feel up to it, you can take off the wheel, and using brake cleaner and a rag, clean the rotor as you rotate it. This should do the trick while eliminating the need to remove all the components.
I may be wrong, but I don't believe I have ever seen anything that suggests the factory sealant put on the rotors can be left on.
 

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Phew always thought pares and most item were cheaper in the states than here in the UK.

I have just had New front Disc (rotors) and pads, both sides fitted by a garage for £189.00.

Well done jbkufahl and Gregory for tackling the job yourselves.
 

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I'm not the ultimate expert, but I researched the issue of the grey protective covering for about an hour on the internet. While the internet is not law, the general consensus from apparently reputable sources, supported by a Mercedes service bulletin, indicated that the covering was not petroleum based, was used to protect the iron areas not subject to the friction areas, and would not affect or contaminate the pads. They indicated that it would not hurt to remove the coating, but it was not necessary. This is a new issue from about a year or so ago. Definitely not a petroleum based product at all. So, not saying you're wrong, and maybe a best practice to remove from the contact area, but the coating only gets removed from the friction area and the other areas remain protected. I guess we can all research on our own and make an informed decision based on our best interests. Thanks for the contrarian position as it encourages others to research and hopefully we can reach a consensus that is best for all of us.
 

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Discussion Starter #10

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Premium Member 2005 SLK55 AMG
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Hi All
I would not clean off the grey coating , As it wears off you can see if your getting the pads sitting right across the rotor

Cheers

Andy
 

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I also need a brake job, front and rear pads plus front rotors. I want original parts and I had a good idea of MB prices from mbpartsusa.com before going to the dealer here in FL.

Long story short, Pembroke Pines dealer quoted $822 for the parts (front and rear pads, front rotors, front locking screws and DOT 4+ fluid), mbpartsusa.com cost was $404 shipped (they are a dealer in Des Moines, IA). Same MB original parts, half the cost. Astonishing.
 

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Premium Member 2007 SLK280
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I don't know if it's true but I had my mechanic check out my SLK brakes the other day because of a squeak and he told me that almost every time you change MB brakes you have to do the rotors too because they are high performance brakes and they wear together. Fortunately my brakes were A-OK but I wonder if that's true or not.
 

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Founding Member #2 2008 SLK55 AMG
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I don't know if it's true but I had my mechanic check out my SLK brakes the other day because of a squeak and he told me that almost every time you change MB brakes you have to do the rotors too because they are high performance brakes and they wear together. Fortunately my brakes were A-OK but I wonder if that's true or not.
Not necessarily, technician needs to measure disc/rotor thickness with caliper. Generally the discs need replacement on the second set of brake pads (talking about the front brakes mainly).
 
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