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I have/had a PSE problem.
I had the corrosion problem bad on the black plug. I tried to clean it but couldn't get it to work. Symptoms were typical, dome light only worked with rocker switch, no alarm, etc.
I pulled the PSE, took the socket off of the board and hard wired to the board. When I plugged it back in the door locks worked but still had an issue with the dome light.
I pulled back out, removed said wires and rewired making sure I didn't mess something up the first time.

Put PSE back in, still the same issue.
I had some issues when pulling the socket off and lifted some contact points on the board. I started researching and came across this thread http://www.slkworld.com/slk-r170-class-diy/121265-getting-w210-w208-pse-work-r170.html#post4057089 and figured what the heck.
I went to the junkyard and scored two w210 PSE's.
I soldered the microprocessor onto the new board. Installed PSE and everything worked except for the door lock. The unlock worked. I opened the box to see if I could see anything.
It looked to me like the relay worked correctly unlocking but didn't make the full connection unlocking due to the white adjustment wheel.
Stupidly, I reached in with a screw driver to push over the relay contact to the side that wasn't making contact to see if that was perhaps the issue.
I accidentally arced against one of the other relays on the board. I had a lil smoke leak out of something on the board. I took it in and saw that one of the glass diodes popped. No big deal.

I soldered in a new diode from the old board.
Plugged back in, everything worked except the pump, this time the pump didn't fire in either direction. No noise from the pump at all.
So I pulled back out. I figured I fried the board.

Took the microprocessor off and soldered to the other w210 pse I had. Plugged it in, same problem.
I checked fuses under the hood and none are popped.
I pulled off the side panel in the dash and no fuses were popped in there either.
I then pulled the K40 relay box (some thread I found pointed at that) no dice,
everything was fine there.

I then disconnected the battery.
I found something that suggested that the canbus signal could have been messed up.
It sat like that overnight. I plugged back in, still no pump.
I pulled the PSE, tied 12V directly to the pump and it worked.
Reinstalled PSE.
I just pulled N10-3 but not sure what to check or how to check it.
It looks fine to me, at least I couldn't see anything popped visually.
I have some high magnification glasses I use. This helps me find cold solder joints and such. I don't see anything out of the ordinary.

So now I am thoroughly confused.

I would think if the microprocessor popped, nothing would work; door locks, dome light, alarm, etc. When I hit the lock and unlock buttons I hear something click in the cap, but no pump. WIth each board swap, I kept the pumps with the board they came with so it's not a fried pump. Is there anything I should be looking at that connects directly to the pump? I also checked for the fuse box in the boot. I don't have one in the boot...at least it's not on the right side. Any ideas? Is there a fuse somewhere perhaps I haven't found that's not in the fuse box in the engine compartment?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I also found out last night my alarm actually does not work anymore either.

I'm wanting to point at something canbus related but I'm not sure what to look for by name.
My understanding of canbus is that all of the items that communicate in the car basically have a unique 'mac ID'. Depending on the grouped components they talk through 'sub stations' to a 'main PC'.

From what I understand Canbus and DeviceNet (I'm more familiar with DeviceNet) are essentially the same. I've seen using DeviceNet at work where a single component can fail and make all of the other items on that bus go haywire.

I'm wondering if that's maybe what I have going on.

The problem is, I have no idea what the 'substations' or 'main pc' is called nor where to look for them.
I'm going out on a limb and assuming that whatever controls the pump in the PSE is on the same 'sub station' as the alarm.
I'm thinking when I arced, the diode blew like a fuse saving the board but I also blew whatever that 'sub station' is in the process.
A little terminology help might point me in the right direction.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I just realized I made a spelling error in the first post that could change the message dramatically.
When I hit the lock and unlock buttons I hear something click in the cap, but no pump.
Cap = Cab.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I think you need to scan your car with a das/xentry tool and see what errors are in there. Then you can start to rectify them.
I know, I keep telling myself I need to get one. I was hoping the whole PSE thing would have been simple based on the original fix I was putting in place. The whole arcing thing changes everything. I'm going to purchase one today.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Can you make a suggestion on what to get? I'm looking on eBay and I'm not sure what to get. A lot of the things look like just a software program with no hardware.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have been reading more and see that my question above ambiguity to my question. I'm looking for an alternative to the all out super expensive Mercedes Star system. Additionally, outside of the handheld diagnostic tool, is there computer software that's needed? I'm seeing a bunch of hard drives and laptops and such...are those home-made diagnostic tools that connect directly to the car and to a lap top? do those work?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Oh brother :( I just can't afford that right now. I have way more money going out than coming in. I'm in the middle of fixing 2 vehicles (Mom's car, and a 95 F250 PS race truck :p), starting a business, and with spring coming up, I'm building a garage/paint booth to paint cars and stuff. Is there another alternative that is pretty darn close but doesn't quite cost so much? I can probably do around $500 so as long as I keep it hidden from my wife :p
 
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