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Discussion Starter #1
Im at the step of removing bolt 3 and locating the single pink wire with red stripes that goes to fuse7. There are 3 groups of wires and there all pink with red stripes. What do i do?

I gave up for today. Thismight have to do with pre and post lift...

By the way, i couldn't put the top on the fuse box. So i just put the top top on the fuse box
 

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Mine was exactly as described by the destructions (which doesn't help you, sorry!), but try going on the mods4cars.com website and reading the instructions, it may be more clear. Good luck.... it is certainly worth it when it has all gone right.
 

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Im at the step of removing bolt 3 and locating the single pink wire with red stripes that goes to fuse7. There are 3 groups of wires and there all pink with red stripes. What do i do?

I gave up for today. Thismight have to do with pre and post lift...

By the way, i couldn't put the top on the fuse box. So i just put the top top on the fuse box
First, please don't get frustrated. Easy for me to say, but I've been there.

There are 4 bolts in the fuse box., You should be removing the one that is the second from the right or third from the left.

There should only be 1 wire that is pink with red stripes.

You may be removing the wrong bolt.

It is tough to get the lid back on the fuse box...we had to literally stuff it all in. However, when you have completed the wiring in that fuse box you will still have one long wire that needs to extend to the fuse box by the battery. On the left hand side of the fuse box there is a little rubber 'pluglike' thing on the side that you can put the wire through and then insert it in the channel that runs along the top of the firewall and to the other fusebox.

If you need more help, ask!! I sure hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I just got this from mods4cars support

Hello,
Thanks for your inquiry and sorry to hear that you have problems. I have not yet seen a car that didn't have that wire. It is explained which fuse the wire needs to go to (fuse 7). If in your case all wires are in pairs, then just find the pair that has one wire going to fuse no.7 . All that will do is activate 2 circuits instead of one when the module wants to remote operate the top. There is no problem with that.
Technically speaking what you are doing is simply switching one (or two) circuits over from "full ignition on" to "accessory on" and the module relay will then later activate the accessory circuit when a remote command is given. This will turn the radio on temporarily for example, so if you see that happen, that is normal.
 

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I just got this from mods4cars support


Technically speaking what you are doing is simply switching one (or two) circuits over from "full ignition on" to "accessory on" and the module relay will then later activate the accessory circuit when a remote command is given. This will turn the radio on temporarily for example, so if you see that happen, that is normal.

Well, well. I have often wondered why the radio comes on with remote operation of the roof! You have just cleared that up for ME! I wouldn't mind this happening, but then it switches off again when the roof operation has completed and that is more annoying than switching on in the first place!
 

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Well, well. I have often wondered why the radio comes on with remote operation of the roof! You have just cleared that up for ME! I wouldn't mind this happening, but then it switches off again when the roof operation has completed and that is more annoying than switching on in the first place!
You can just turn the volume to zero and that won't be a problem lol.

There are so many wires there, i don't know how im going to find which one...
 

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Administrator 2009 SLK 55 AMG/Founding Member 2006
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did u see simplyslk's instructions above?
 

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Don't panic. Take it slowly and once you have found what you think is the correct wire, check and check once more that it is the correct one. Tip: There is a stage later on that involves attaching 2 'clips' to the same wire.... make sure you leave enough space between the 2 'clips' (around 1/4" or so) as later on it tells you to cut the wire between them (to create 2 wires) and if you haven't left enough space, you will have to remove one clip and re-attach it, not that easy as there isn't a lot of space to swing tools around in there.
 

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Looks like I got back late today !
You've more or less got all the info you need . In some cases all the wires are paired , you can either trace the one that goes back to the #7 fuse and move it with its partner or split it and just move the wire that goes to that fuse !
 

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I just got this from mods4cars support

Hello,
Thanks for your inquiry and sorry to hear that you have problems. I have not yet seen a car that didn't have that wire. It is explained which fuse the wire needs to go to (fuse 7). If in your case all wires are in pairs, then just find the pair that has one wire going to fuse no.7 . All that will do is activate 2 circuits instead of one when the module wants to remote operate the top. There is no problem with that.
Technically speaking what you are doing is simply switching one (or two) circuits over from "full ignition on" to "accessory on" and the module relay will then later activate the accessory circuit when a remote command is given. This will turn the radio on temporarily for example, so if you see that happen, that is normal.
Glad you got explanation from them. And now I know too why the radio comes on when roof operated remotely =) I just followed instructions on their website and my wife guided me which wire goes where and I just connected them =) She even cleared for me which "cut wire" goes where.
Perhaps, there IS a difference in pre- and post-facelift models... Keep us updated.
 

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RHD v LHD

AFAIK, there is no difference between pre and post facelift; there is a difference between left and right-hand drive, but since the instructions are for LHD (USA standard) you should be OK. (For information, esp for RHD, the smallest nut and terminal is contact 4, and is the outboard side of the fuse box) Note that G1 and G2 are big terminals, and are strapped together, so moving a wire from one to the other has no benefit. F7 wire has to move from G3 to G4, and the terminal on the SmartTop relay is only big enough to fit over the G4 post.

Secondly, following a wire to a fuse is a bit like those children's puzzles "Which road will lead Noddy to Toytown?". Cheat, and start at the solution (Fuse 7), and see where the wire goes! (or in this case, has come from). My fuse box had labels on the wires in the fuse box, so you could be quite sure quickly that you were dealing with fuse 7's wire.

Third, when undoing the nuts off the posts to fit the relay wires, etc, try to have only one post undone at a time, so if the wires make an escape bid, you know which post they belong to.

When refitting the fuse box, try to put the relay at the back next to the alarm indicator relay, then the back of the fuse carrier links into two pins either side of the relay space, and the front edge clips into the perimeter at the front.
The next layer of the fuse box, links into the back of the box outside each edge and in the centre, and then clips in a number (2 or 3) of places along each side.
Finally, the top cover of the fuse box links into the "next layer" at the back edge, and clips to the body at the front edge.
(It didn't make sense to me first time I looked at it, and I thought something was missing, but eventually I worked it out. You at least know it should fit, and just have to learn the trick.)
 

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All the non-power signals of the SmartTop will need this info.

You might find this pinout map of the SKF/CCM/N10-3 is useful.
This is the module that all the other connections for the SmartTop are connected to.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Is that the fuse box?

Earlier when i said 'i dont know which wire is which', i meant that for the fuse box. Im going to work on this today.
 

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Pinouts for SmartTop

In step 12 of the SmartTop instructions, the pin numbers relate to that map.
 Wire 28 (white/purple) OPEN
 Wire 29 (green/purple) CLOSE
 Wire 68 (green/red) SW.LIGHT
 Wire 78 (white) CAN-H
 Wire 62 (green) CAN-L
 Wire 75 (orange/grey) +12V
 Wire 77 (brown) GND
 Wire 74 (green/white) SPEED PULSE #1
 Wire 74 (green/white) SPEED PULSE #2
 Wire 56 (blue/green) ABS PULSE #1
 Wire 56 (blue/green) ABS PULSE #2

This also proves useful when trying to get other functions to work; so 28 and 29 linked to my PSE mod.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Since I don't have a single pink wire with red stripes, mods4cars support gave me a way to test if i got the right wire:

Yes there is a way to test:
Do exactly what you said and install the relay part with the wires you *think* are correct. Then connect the battery temporarily and touch the end of the long black wire you need to run over to the control unit box to ground (chassis). You should hear the relay click and activate and then you should hear a fan inside the control unit box start up (whirring). If you hear that then you have the right wire. If the big engine cooling fan turns on or the small fan doesn't come on at all, then you did not get the correct wire. Just try until you hear the small whirring fan upon relay activation.

Best Regards,

Stefan Wilhelmy
Mods4cars Support (Las Vegas)

Hotline America +1-310-910-9055 / Direct: ext. 101
Hotline Europe +49-30-868705541 / Direct: ext. 101
 

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Do exactly what you said and install the relay part with the wires you *think* are correct. Then connect the battery temporarily and touch the end of the long black wire you need to run over to the control unit box to ground (chassis). You should hear the relay click and activate and then you should hear a fan inside the control unit box start up (whirring). If you hear that then you have the right wire. If the big engine cooling fan turns on or the small fan doesn't come on at all, then you did not get the correct wire. Just try until you hear the small whirring fan upon relay activation.
This assumes that the small fan in the electronic box is working, which for old cars is quite an assumption. (Most of the R170 I have directly spoken to owners of do not have a working fan)

So why not disconnect the fuse from F7, and put a meter between it and earth; when the relay clicks, the voltage should be 12V, and when the relay is released, the F7 should be 0V (floating). This is actually testing the function you are trying to achieve with the relay!
 

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So why not disconnect the fuse from F7, and put a meter between it and earth; when the relay clicks, the voltage should be 12V, and when the relay is released, the F7 should be 0V (floating). This is actually testing the function you are trying to achieve with the relay!
The fuse F7 plugs in to connect two circuits; one side is the load (and should not change in voltage) and the other side is the supply wire. It is this supply wire (pink and red) that is being moved from terminal #3 to terminal #4.

To paraphrase the instructions for the SmartTop (because saying it another way may help understanding):
My initial recommendation is to find the supply wire on the rear of the fuse 7 slot, and follow that wire (on which you should find a label "7") to where it connects with terminal #3. Undo the nut from that terminal post, and remove only that ring from the post, being sure to put the others back. (Put the nut back on this post now, so none of these can fall off without you noticing) If the ring has more than one wire, cut the other wire(s) off, attach then to a fresh ring, and remount them to terminal #3. (Mine had one small wire). Do up terminal #3.
Undo terminal #4, and attach the wire from fuse 7 and the pink wire from the relay assembly. Do up the nut on terminal #4
Undo terminal #2, and connect the larger terminal with two wires from the relay assembly. do up the nut on terminal #2.
(Sorry to be pedantic about this, but since red/green colour-blindness affects 1/10 males, using red wiring is risky business, so the check for fuse 7 is the test for the right red/pink wire, and does not rely on spotting the colour correctly.)

To test the relay.
Check no wiring other than the complete assembly above has been disturbed. Reconnect teh battery, +ve terminal first, then -ve terminal, being sure to make positive contact at first touch.
If you ground the long black control wire to chassis (bare metal), you should hear the relay click. According to Mods4Cars, you should also hear the small fan start, but there are quite a few noises like that in this area, so you could be misled.
Now remove the fuse #7. Connect one lead of your meter to earth (chassis, bare metal) and use an extended probe into the supply side of Fuse 7. (Note that a paper clip can be bent to form an excellent probe for this purpose;))
When teh long black wire is grounded, and the relay clicks, you should see 12V at fuse 7, and when the wire is released, the fuse supply should float, showing 0V at the meter. If you do not have 12V, check that you are in fuse 7 (easy trap) and then put the extended probe into the other blade position.
If you still do not have 12V, and you are certain that you have fuse 7, then you will need to check your installation.
(Voltmeter settings should be DC voltage, in the range that covers 12V DC. (probably 20V))
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Update: i got the fuse box part done. Tolak told me the car will run fine, so i can do the rest tomorrow. I did his test. After grounding the long black wire, i got 12-12.5 volts. So the pink wire that i found must be correct. Its paired with a smaller wire with the same colors.

This is painful. Especially after working a full day at work. I'm told its worth it. Have a good evening everybody.
 

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It will be!!! Enjoy your toy!
 
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