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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have read just about every post on here regarding roof issues. Yet still have questions.

My roof operation is incosistent at best and never actually fully works.

the trunk usually opens, the roof unlocks in the front and starts to open then stops (in random positions), motor does not continue to run. Vario switch bLinks slow and steady.

ok so the fluid level is perfect, I have checked every switch with a multimeter and they all see to be operating correctly. all the panels are removed so I can get at everything. the cover switch is taped in the closed position to trick the system that the cover is closed.

I do not see signs of hydraulic fluid leaks. all pivot points are lubed and move freely,

If I manually get the roof down into the trunk, the trunk will not close using the vario switch. Trying to bring the roof up from the trunk using the vario switchresults in the pump starting and it actually looks like the top jerks further down for a split second, then the top just sits there and the pump whirrs away.

ok I am getting flustered with this wonderful German engineering!

I have also disconntected the battery in an attempt to clear the CCM codes ( I read that might work on here somewhere) No the Radio wants a code! (HELP!)

Apparently the slow flashing vario light mean a code is stored in the CCM.

Here are my questions:
Is there a modern (or easy) way to retrieve these codes from the CCM?

Is there a known problem with the hydraulic rams leaking internally and not working properly, yet show no leaks externally?

Could this be a problem woith the k40 relay?

Where can i get the code for my radio?

thanks all :)
 

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Have you taken off the headliner and visually inspected the sides?

It looks to me like its either the two side pistons or a simple hang-up on the slide, but I'm no expert. My side pistons were leaking with no external visibility(from inside the roof) but once I took off the headliner I could see that the piston seal was shot, even though it wasn't really leaking much if any because of the design of the sides as opposed to the locking center one. I could hear it if I moved it manually though.

May be something worth trying!
 

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Sorry I can't help with the roof but hope one of the many clever folk on this forum will put you right. My radio's code was supplied without charge by my dealer on presentation of the pink-slip/logbook. He took about 2 minutes on his computer. Regards
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have everything visible and accessible including everything under the headliner. No hydraulic leaks anywhere. The roof unlocks fine, no sticky locks, all the moving parts are well lubricated.

HELP!
 

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have you tested the relay switch (inside, where the hydraulic pump is located, it's a black, 1" sq.relay.) set your ohm meter on 200 and probe it. anything under 200 is good. of course the coil inside the relay could be frozen in the closed or open position. Lol!
I have a 99' slk230 and the roof has been hell for 10 years.
roger
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I have not tested that, I will tonight. Would the A40 relay/module have anything to to with this problem? I heard some bad soldering could be the culprit too. The roof problems I am having are so random it is extremely hard to troubleshoot. I had a Volkswagen Jetta, and the electrical system on that vehicle was a joke on that too.

Update - Meant K40 relay, not A40 Relay - I checked mine and the solder joints are absolutely fine.
 

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I don't know about the A40 relay. go to youtube for that. I just last week soldered the connections on my K40 relay and my car is running like the day that I drove it home from the dealership. (thanks youtube) I have to check my roof out as well. It would not rise up from the trunk but that was before I repaired the K40 relay. Don't know if that fixed that problem as well. I'm about to go outside and check the switches with a multimeter (don't have a clue about that...yet) I'll let ya know. must say that my roof has been nothing but trouble and expense.
Roger
 

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Roof is working just fine again. I'm thinking that the K40 relay fix (redid their poor soldering job) I ran the roof up and down half dozen times and it's performing great.
So...in review: I replaced the front rotors and pads. Replaced the front right wheel bearings (inner/outer), fixed the K40 relay, and fixed the roof. Oh..and put new rubber all way round. Now if I could pick up a deal on a drivers seat and back.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Ok ,so I typed A40 relay, but I meant K40 relay.

What I really need is a AK47 relay LOL.

Checked the K40 relay, solder joints are excellent.

checked and replaced the black relay that is next to the motor. Original was was fine, replaced with new one, same result.

ok so now the roof operation has slightly changed (like I mentioned before, this roof is random at best and never fully works). The pump now quits as the trunk starts to open. if I wait a bit and push the vario button, it moves a little more, then pump stops, I do this several times and then the trunk is fully open and then the roof starts to open a little at a time. It almost seems like the motor may be reaching an overload and a self resetting fuse resets and allows the motor to run. Could a thermal protect or something be fatigued or faulty?

Is there a easy way to read the codes store in the CCM? or where can i buy a tool to read the CCM?

HELP!
 

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you say all the points are lubed... I would double check this, lubing them with the proper, Sicone/PTFE lube. I would put a voltmeter somewhere to measure voltage getting to motor. Then I would enlist a helper to hold the button while you 'assisted' the roof... see if that works, and you are also feeling for any sticking.... you would also be wise to measure current draw, as that may be how MB senses something is wrong and causes the light to flash... (and throw a chassis code) Over current could be joint or could just be the motor part of the pump... or could be thick old gummy fluid.. Have you changed fluid? Worth a try, undo 2 nuts holding pump, unhook the 2 elec connectors from metal bracket by twisting 45 degrees, lift out and position pump so res. is down, and in a pan, loosen clamp, remove res, dump oil, have friend clean it and refill it, you put it back on and back in temporarily, cycle top and repeat one time.. should have nice clean oil, and you know how easy it will be to replace the pump if you need to..
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
first thing I did when i got all the panels off is lube every moving joint with a silicone spray lube.

I may try the fluid replacement at a later date, the hydraulic fluid looks quite clean to me.

I will try the assisting the opening to see if the motor stops.

Is the a easy way to read what stored in the CCM? anybody?

Where can I buy the correct system to read the CCM? (combination control module)

:tazz:
 

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The only people i know that can read the non-engine , transmission codes are Mercedes or an Independent with star diagnostics . Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #14
more roof problems - solved!

ok i thought i would post an update to my random roof problem.

I found the problem to be the two wires that lead to the roof switches, the problem was that the wires were worn bare right where the roof folds. It seems the German engineers have them a little too tight in that location.

if your roof randomly stops on the open process, and randomly in different spots, check these wires!..

David
 

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ok i thought i would post an update to my random roof problem.

I found the problem to be the two wires that lead to the roof switches, the problem was that the wires were worn bare right where the roof folds. It seems the German engineers have them a little too tight in that location.

if your roof randomly stops on the open process, and randomly in different spots, check these wires!..

David
david that's fantastic! which side of the car are the wires located on so I can fix my if I have to ? how do you repair yours ?
roger
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The wires on my car ran along the passenger side roof line. I basically cut the wires a soldered in another piece and used heat shrink, I also cut the existing tie wraps and put new ones with a little more slack. (I am in Canada, so my slk might be different that other countries)
 
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