Mercedes SLK World banner

1 - 20 of 98 Posts

·
Registered 2001 SLK320
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I have recently bought my self a SLK 320 2001, and I got it very cheap because of all the problems with the car.
I´m working with it when I can after work, But it´s outside and it´s cold and dark here in Sweden right now..

All the major faults are now fixed so I´m into the minor problems now.
Any help for where I should start on each problem is helpful.

1. The interior lights and the trunk lights doesn´t come on when I open the doors or the trunk.
The interior lights works if I move the switch to "on" instead of the "door"

2. The fan inside have it´s own mind about the rpm, I can set the control between 0-5 but if I for an example have it on 3 the fan rpm is going up and down, and if I change it from 3 to 5 it could take some time before anything happens, and then it goes up in rpm and starts to pendulate again.
Same if I take it down to 1, it takes a little bit of time, the rpm drops, and then it starts to pendulate.

I´m sorry if my spelling isn´t correct and if I´m using the wrong terms, but I hope that you will understand anyway.

Brgds Petri
 

·
Super Moderator UK SLK 55 AMG 2007
Joined
·
25,490 Posts
Petri, do not worry about your English.

Check out the R170 diys for how to fix once you identify problem.
 

·
Registered 2002 SLK320
Joined
·
1,742 Posts
I think his English is very good too .............

I don't have much to add other than the Interior light would be easiest to diagnose with SDS and looking at the Door Switch states in "Actual Values", but I'm sure there are others here who can tell him which pins here and there to check these switches with a multi-meter ;) I don't have the wiring diagrams for this car easily to hand right now ;)
 

·
Registered 2001 SLK320
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks, I suspected the fan regulator so I´m actually looking for a new one, Found a new one for $58. ( or 585 sek )
I will order that one and see if it takes care of the problem.

When I´m waiting for that I can work with interior and the trunk lights.

Dave2302 , What do you mean with "diagnose with sds" ?
I was thinking about buying an obd-reader for MB, would that help me in this case?

Thanks all..
Brgds Petri
 

·
Super Moderator UK SLK 55 AMG 2007
Joined
·
25,490 Posts

SDS is MB specific and digs deeper.

Autiel etc will pull codes for MB but don't dig as deep

Eg, list sensor but not specify which one.
 

·
Super Moderator UK 2002 SLK320 Blue
Joined
·
2,759 Posts
To be honest, a few measurements with a multimeter will help work out if anything's out of spec with the interior lights.

I've attached three documents. The first is the block diagram 'Interior Lights' showing how the boot (trunk) switch and the door switches connect to module A37 and then, over the CAN bus, to N10 the lighting module.

The door switch wiring is on the DoorSwitch diagram. The door switches are S17/3 and S17/4.
The interior light is shown on the Interior Light wiring diagram. Find E15/1 (the Interor light) and E18/1, the trunk light.

To test:
Unclip the cover from the interior light and take it out of the headlining but keep it connected via the 5-pin edge connector (see my thread here)
Make sure the black lead of the multimeter is connected firmly to 0V or the chassis and, using the red lead:
  • Pin 2 of the connector (Brown) should always read 0V (if not, suspect the ground W29/2)
  • Pin 4 of the connector (Red/Grey) should always read +12V (if not, look at Fuse F1 on the lighting controller)
  • Pin 3 of the connector (Blue/Brown) should read 0V with the trunk and both doors shut, and +12V when any of the doors or the trunk is opened. If not, then you'll have to pull each door switch in turn and first clean it (in case that's all it is) or replace it. The same applies to the trunk switch (it's easiest to have someone outside the car to open the trunk for you during your test).
  • The non-brown cables to the door or trunk switches should each measure 12V when the door is open and 0V when the door is closed.
Let us know what you get when you test these - and please let us know if you don't understand something I've written.

Good luck.
 

Attachments

·
Registered 2001 SLK320
Joined
·
874 Posts
Hi, I have recently bought my self a SLK 320 2001, and I got it very cheap because of all the problems with the car.
I´m working with it when I can after work, But it´s outside and it´s cold and dark here in Sweden right now..

All the major faults are now fixed so I´m into the minor problems now.
Any help for where I should start on each problem is helpful.

1. The interior lights and the trunk lights doesn´t come on when I open the doors or the trunk.
The interior lights works if I move the switch to "on" instead of the "door"

2. The fan inside have it´s own mind about the rpm, I can set the control between 0-5 but if I for an example have it on 3 the fan rpm is going up and down, and if I change it from 3 to 5 it could take some time before anything happens, and then it goes up in rpm and starts to pendulate again.
Same if I take it down to 1, it takes a little bit of time, the rpm drops, and then it starts to pendulate.

I´m sorry if my spelling isn´t correct and if I´m using the wrong terms, but I hope that you will understand anyway.

Brgds Petri
Somewhere on these pages I have posted a test procedure to determine if it is the regulator or the fan control on the dash itself. I too be suggesting the regulator but one never knows.
 

·
Registered 2002 SLK320
Joined
·
1,742 Posts
Dave2302 , What do you mean with "diagnose with sds" ?
I was thinking about buying an obd-reader for MB, would that help me in this case?
Hi, yes, @Avel Du has answered it but just to elaborate a bit ..............

SDS is dealer level Kit and you can put together or buy a system for around $500.
If you are thinking of buying anything else, my advice is that it certainly doesn't really cut the mustard on MB's, SDS is waaaay more that just a Code Reader & Resetter, and will access all codes / all modules plus way way more on your R170 which others don't despite what the sales blurb and other folks may tell you.

If money is an issue now, use the procedures that have been outlined, don't buy cheap machine, save up a bit and get SDS later ;) IT WILL pay for itself in short order when you get a few obscure problems ;)

BTW it doesn't just do R170 but all MB (and related) Cars. For your car you ideally need circa 2014 software with a C3 or C4 Multiplexer and lead kit but there are some 12 / 2019 softwares that still have the HHT Program installed (needed to access certain modules on R170 and early MB models), but be careful, check with @i860 here before you buy, he is the guy i would recommend, he can help with this :)

I recently bought 12/2019 set up from someone else in UK who said it had HHT program on it and it didn't ........... Long story and tale of woe lol ;)

HTH,
 

·
Registered 2001 SLK320
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
To be honest, a few measurements with a multimeter will help work out if anything's out of spec with the interior lights.

I've attached three documents. The first is the block diagram 'Interior Lights' showing how the boot (trunk) switch and the door switches connect to module A37 and then, over the CAN bus, to N10 the lighting module.

The door switch wiring is on the DoorSwitch diagram. The door switches are S17/3 and S17/4.
The interior light is shown on the Interior Light wiring diagram. Find E15/1 (the Interor light) and E18/1, the trunk light.

To test:
Unclip the cover from the interior light and take it out of the headlining but keep it connected via the 5-pin edge connector (see my thread here)
Make sure the black lead of the multimeter is connected firmly to 0V or the chassis and, using the red lead:
  • Pin 2 of the connector (Brown) should always read 0V (if not, suspect the ground W29/2)
  • Pin 4 of the connector (Red/Grey) should always read +12V (if not, look at Fuse F1 on the lighting controller)
  • Pin 3 of the connector (Blue/Brown) should read 0V with the trunk and both doors shut, and +12V when any of the doors or the trunk is opened. If not, then you'll have to pull each door switch in turn and first clean it (in case that's all it is) or replace it. The same applies to the trunk switch (it's easiest to have someone outside the car to open the trunk for you during your test).
  • The non-brown cables to the door or trunk switches should each measure 12V when the door is open and 0V when the door is closed.
Let us know what you get when you test these - and please let us know if you don't understand something I've written.

Good luck.
Thanks..
I didn´t get any notifications this time that there was replies to this thread.
I just noticed it now.

I have been outside now, yeah I´m working with the car outside in the driveway and it´s 2 degrees Celsius (about 35 Fahrenheit) outside.

Pin 2 and 4 are exactly as mentioned but pin 3 has 0v all of the time.
I removed the door switch and measured it and got 6,3 v on the brown/grey cable and 0 on the brown. No differens if I pushed it in (closed door).
So the problem seems to be somewhere before the door switch since I only have 6,3 volts.

Now It got to dark aswell so I will continue tomorrow.

But thanks all :) you are the best..
 

·
Registered 2001 SLK320
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Somewhere on these pages I have posted a test procedure to determine if it is the regulator or the fan control on the dash itself. I too be suggesting the regulator but one never knows.
Yes, I noticed that there was a answer earlier in this thread about how to find out if it´s the regulator or the controller.

Thanks, I will look into this tomorrow when it´s not dark outside :)
 

·
Registered 2001 SLK320
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
An update to all of you helping me :)
Interior lights.

On the drivers side I got 6.3 volts on the brown/grey cable and 0 volts on the brown.
Makes no difference if I push it in (Door closed) or leave it out (Door opened)
I have removed the switch and checked it and it works as it should.

On the passenger side I got 0 volts on both cables.

I will look into this later today, but right now I´m going out and start checking the interior fan so that I can order spareparts today.
My new headlights are supposed to arrive mid next week so I want to take a testdrive again next weekend :)

Thanks all.. Petri
 

·
Registered 2001 SLK320
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Another update.
The fan controller works just as it should.
From 0-5 I got 0 volt stepping up to 6.5 volts just as it should.
So I will order a new fan regulator and a new gas damper to the hood.

Now I can go back to the interior lights :)
 

·
Registered 1997 SLK230 Kompressor
Joined
·
217 Posts
On the gas damper, it is worth checking what you are ordering. Mine had been replaced with a real "bodge" at some point in its history. When I came to replacing I had the choice of fitting a basic non standard unit - that is without the sleeve that allows the bonnet to be raised almost vertically to what is generally referred to as the service position, or the safety position OR the complete unit with it's sleeve. I believe it is also possible just to buy the damper to fit into the sleeve. There have been posts about this but if you have problems, PM me and I'll dig out what I bought.
 

·
Registered 2001 SLK320
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
On the gas damper, it is worth checking what you are ordering. Mine had been replaced with a real "bodge" at some point in its history. When I came to replacing I had the choice of fitting a basic non standard unit - that is without the sleeve that allows the bonnet to be raised almost vertically to what is generally referred to as the service position, or the safety position OR the complete unit with it's sleeve. I believe it is also possible just to buy the damper to fit into the sleeve. There have been posts about this but if you have problems, PM me and I'll dig out what I bought.
I found an aftermarket damper that should be a direct replacement to the original one, based one the partnr.
But I didn´t order it right now. I just ordered a new regulator to the interior fan and some new filters.
//Petri
 

·
Super Moderator CA 2012 SLK55 AMG w/P30
Joined
·
11,956 Posts
Keep in mind that after market stuff may fail much sooner than the OEM. There is a reason why they're cheaper
 

·
Registered 1997 SLK230 Kompressor
Joined
·
217 Posts
Petri, don't base your buying for this item on part number equivalent. The complete unit with extension is I think only made by Stabilus and will cost upwards of about 40€, that's if it is PN A1708800229. Stabilus also make one without the extension.
 

·
Registered 2001 SLK320
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
A1708800229
That´s the correct partnumber, and I found a new one for 25€ .
But I haven´t ordered it, I´m still working with the interior lights and have some other things to take care of first :)
Rofa , You are from Finland so you know what kind of weather we have, so the interior fan and interior light is more important :)

Brgds to you all //Petri
 

·
Registered 2001 SLK320
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Now I have finally got information about my new headlights, They should arrive tomorrow or on Wednesday.
Looking forward to get the front of the car done :)
I have also ordered a new fan regulator, a new gas damper for the hood, new air filter both for me and the engine :)
But I haven´t solved the problem with the interior lights yet.
Where in the car is N10 located?
 
1 - 20 of 98 Posts
Top