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Discussion Starter #1
If you were only going to do one on a post face lift slk, which does everyone prefer and why?

The larger crank pulley requires a new belt, but it appears the smaller super charger pulley does not. They both appear to give similar boost upgrades and if you do a tune the smaller supercharger pulley will give out even more.

The smaller supercharger pulley costs significantly less than than larger crank pulley but I do not know the difference in the amount of labor to complete each task

Thoughts? Suggestions? Concerns?

Thank you in advance for your feedback!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I decided on going with the 69mm SC pulley purely on price. I was able to get it for $113 shipped vs the $750 - $300 for the ASP Pulley. In addition, I am told the SC pulley doesn't require a new belt which the ASP pulley does which saves me another $45.

If this doesn't work out, its only $113 out of pocket since I get free labor.

Once it is installed, I will more than likely take the car to a performance shop to do a remapping. According to the info on the pulley, installing it can get up to 30bhp but after a remap it can get up to an increase of 45bhp. Hopefully this info is legit as I don't know much about performance mods or automotive mechanics.
 

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Administrator 2009 SLK 55 AMG/Founding member 2006
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he can pm you but you cannot reply yet to pms as you need 15 posts to do that

do this to quickly get 9 more post to 15

If you wish to become PM (Private Message) capable, you need 15 posts. To get those 15 posts quickly, just go to the ‘New members introduce yourself here’ section and welcome enough new members to obtain your needed posts to PM.
 

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Feel free to contact the "Black Sheep" of the SLK forums, Either needing the 15 or after to get my thoughts but I have an SLK32, mark
 

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Of course I have both. First I got the E/C 65mm SC pulley and loved it. Drove the 30 miles going from 80mph to 105mph, over and over. Found a 178 and PSK for sale, just used for 3 weeks. I did some math and soon thought a 178/65 would be too much. I did some math and realized a 70mm SC pulley would go perfectly with a 178mm crank pulley. I did some math and sent the 74 out for machining, to 70mm's. Now doing some math I find my 178/70 yields a 2.54 pulley ratio. I did some math and realized that 25.4mm's equals 1 inch and the pulley ratio I came up with, 2.54, was a coincidence.It's now 3AM and I cannot sleep because I do not believe in coincidences yet 254 and the similar sequence, 254 are similar. My one datalog yielded a 20.6psi reading which is the number I came up with when I did some math. The 155/65 yielded a pulley ratio of 2.38 and a datalog showed a psi of 19. Increasing the boost to a ratio of 2.54 from 2.38 is an increase of .16. This .16 is a 6.3% increase so what is a 6.3% increase of 19? Roughly 1.2, so add this to 19 and we get 20.2 and I logged 20.6 so the target was achieved within a reasonable doubt and that is all that is required in a united states court of law. So 70mm it was within the amount considered acceptable for the machinist involved turning the pulley. The Lysholm is really pushing it's efficiency range with a pulley ratio of 2.5 and I went to 2.54.
After adding the $400, fuel pump and the adjustable regulator and not achieving the results I wanted(Pushing a fuel injector beyond 80% of it's range is where I draw the line) so I bought a few(6 to be precise) 550cc fuel injectors, installed them(not difficult) and used a tune I had for 450cc injectors running TORCO through their orifices(plus 1.5* of extra timing as I do gamble on occasion) and compensated for the timing with an AFR of between 11.0:1 and 11.5:1 95% of the time. The car likely runs low 12's and has hit 160 also, not bad numbers for a 198 cube motor.
I am putting the car and all of it's parts deemed extra up for sale as I have come full circle buying a replica of the first muscle car I ever owned, a 1966 Buick Gran Sport. If you don't know the history of the GS I can briefly tell you some of the cars it regularly has beaten in magazine tests, the HEMI(426 variety), the 1970 Chevelle SS 454 LS-5 found the Buick annoying as the SS was beating everything else with it's 450HP except for the Buick. then an up and coming magazine called motor trend found that the quickest muscle car it tested in 1970, the premier year for muscle cars was the '70 Buick GS Stage 1. The Buick beat the Chevelle SS, GTO 455,Olds 455 W-30 machine, the Road Runner, R/T, GTX and chargers from mopar with any motor they offered, 383, 440 6-pack and the HEMI. FORD? If it were not for the mustang that company would not be in business, the Buick beat them also.
Check out the classifieds for the listing. The work was done right and the car has only 84k miles on kit, new tires and old tires and a whole lot more.
I am buying a 1966 Buick Skylark to which I will be adding a 455 lord willing.
 

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Registered 2001 SLK320
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Lets beat a long dead horse... Anyone running the duel pullies for any amount of time? Any issues? Is it worth it???
 

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Registered 2002 SLK320
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Lets beat a long dead horse... Anyone running the duel pullies for any amount of time? Any issues? Is it worth it???
More to the point has anyone actually run a 4 Cyl Supercharged and tuned Engine for any significant amount of time before it inevitably goes BANG !!

>:D
 

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Registered 2001 SLK320
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More to the point has anyone actually run a 4 Cyl Supercharged and tuned Engine for any significant amount of time before it inevitably goes BANG !!

>:D
Well..... we are all hoping for 2 bangs at the same time in a controlled environment.....:grin:
 

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Registered 2002 SLK320
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Hi,

lol

2 at the same time ?

I've done very little with MB 4 Cyl Engines, other than Scrap them because they are blown up, do they actually fire 2 at a time ??

If I'm totally honest I think that the reason so many 4 cylinders are blown up is because they are ...............

a) Not serviced correctly by the "el cheapo" owner who has just bought himself a cheap MB

&

b) They are more highly stressed than the V6, V8 and V12's ;)

Cheers Dave
 

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Hi. Im new to all this stuff, but I have tools and a Boris friendly 'can do' attitude. I was wondering do you still have those bits for sale? I would love give my 2004 SLK 230 170 auto a wee boost. Im located in Belfast, UK
 

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I should ask is it better to remap after doing pulleys or does it matter. Im sure I will be doing at least one of them
 

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Hi. Im new to all this stuff, but I have tools and a Boris friendly 'can do' attitude. I was wondering do you still have those bits for sale? I would love give my 2004 SLK 230 170 auto a wee boost. Im located in Belfast, UK
who are you asking?

this thread is 5 years old

use the 'quote' button at the bottom of any post so we know who you are asking or referring to

change your view to not post in old threads
 

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Registered 1997 SLK230 Kompressor
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I should ask is it better to remap after doing pulleys or does it matter. Im sure I will be doing at least one of them
I have been running a reliable dual pulley setup for almost 3 years now and this is what I have learned:

Plan A: if your goverment allows it: install a V8 and become a master fabricator

Plan B: (I did this mostly for lower emission taxes and fabrication fun)

for a dual pulley upgrade: (only works well on a m62 supercharger, forget about doing it on an m45)

-I suggest you to always use high octane fuel
(it will cause detonation you don't)
-refurbish and even port the little supercharger
-use 1-2 step colder plugs
-raise the fuel pressure or install 350cc injectors
-install a larger intercooler (otherwise the ecu will pull lots of timing due to hot iat's resulting in poor performance) preferably a non ebay/china model
-do serious exhaust upgrades or you lose power in the top end
-install a wideband sensor + gauge

-remap is optional

if all is done right you will be looking at 260-280 flywheel hp and 400nm

plan C: install just a pulley




Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
 

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There is very little Fabrication involved in installing an M113 V8 in R170 if you start with a V6 Car :grin:
 
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