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Discussion Starter #1
Recently purchased a slk200 112k miles and the interior was showing its age. Interior trim needed some tlc
so researching paints that could be painted/sprayed found that the costs were quite high.
There is a cheaper alternative from (in the UK) B&Q valspar paint mixing service.
Took a piece of the trim (plastic insert from top front of door card) for them to scan and hey-presto perfect colour match in a tester pot costing £3.The paint is a Acrylic latex.
Brushed mine on with a very soft artist brush colour looks a bit different untill dry. 0:)
 

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Registered 2000 SLK320
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Good idea, I used spray paint but used cut up pieces of a baby sponge from Tesco to dab on the paint, no brush marks and can be blended in over the existing damaged paint.

Regards Stuart
 

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Super Moderator UK 2002 SLK320 Blue
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That's a very useful tip!

Do you have any photos of the before/after of parts of your interior at all?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi don't have any photos before I touched up but these are after, as you can see the colour match is good.
The area around the ign lock was well marked and the door pull and middle consul paint being worn through.
 

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Super Moderator UK 2002 SLK320 Blue
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Those look pretty good. Thanks!
 

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Has anyone to your knowledge tried a solvent-based interior paint? I used an acrylic latex paint on a previous SLK, but it was not very good in terms of adhesion and resilience.


This time around I'm thinking of trying a different approach.
 

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Registered 1998 SLK230/2000 SLK230/2012 SLK250
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I did. I used SEM. It was expensive for me, that paint doesn't go a long way unless you've got a good HVLP sprayer. Mine was a crappy sprayer, and it broke, so I ended up going with a Wagner, which wasted a lot of paint (excessive overspray). I had to buy a lot more paint than they said I would need.

I also used adhesion promoter, but that makes ABS brittle. DON'T is all I can say about that.

The SEM works really well. I had one of those gray interiors (Oyster?) and I hated it. So dull! The first thing I did was find a vinyl color I liked for the headliner, I bought that, bought extra and sent it out for perforating, and then I took a swatch, sent it to SEM and got them to mix a matching paint color - cream white.

I scraped, boiled, soaked, chemicalled, sprayed, did whatever I had to do to get that nasty gray paint off my plastic and turn it to black. That took the bulk of the time. I primed it with primer in a spray can. Then I painted it with SEM. You lose the texture, but that was OK with me.

The prep work is important. It has to be clean, clean, clean, which means soap, water, then alcohol. I used SEM soap. I think Tide would do just as good a job of removing oils and stripping whatever is left over from removing the paint. Alcohol is the finishing touch. You need lots of ventilation.

The SEM paint adheres very well. Chemically, I think what it does is atomizes the solvent, which falls to rest on the plastic and melts the plastic just a tiny bit. You can smell it when you paint. The dye in the paint then settles into that momentarily melted plastic, and then the solvent evaporates away, leaving the dye firmly attached to the plastic. I did three coats for most pieces. You have to be careful about ventilation. Unless you have a huge space, you don't want a fan where the motor is in the middle of the blades, because your solvent fumes will travel right over that electric motor. I read that if you have a little too much concentration in solvent fumes, and the fan sparks, then BOOM! There are some fans where the fan is separate from the motor. If you can, find a place with one of those. Anyway, painting everything doesn't take too long, but you do need a fair amount of dry time, turning this into a 3 day project if you do it all at once. I painted every piece of plastic in the car, except for the top dash, including the shells on the back of the seats. I also painted the door panels and the console top. If it was gray, it got painted white, except for the leather seats.

I cut those perforated gray cneters out of the leather seat covers, and replaced them with the perforated matching vinyl, using them as a pattern. Nothing was scarier than cutting those seams. Traced and cut new pieces, sewed them together, exactly the way the leather had been sewn. Then I reinstalled them, installed the headliner and the plastic and treated everything, leather, vinyl and plastic with 303 Aerospace UV Protectant. When I was done, the change was unbelievable.

It's awesome looking, in fact, I'd have to say black and cream white is the best looking color combination that Mercedes never offered. I have seen the black, the gray, the red and the blue. None of it looks as good as my new color combo, so I'm just saying, if you're going to go to all that trouble, why match only what Mercedes offered? Get whatever color combo it is that you like. There's plenty of choices that might look good in those cars.

The one thing that I've noticed after the fact about SEM paint is how dirt and grime stick to it. Almost nothing gets that nasty grime off, except for Tide and water. Smells nice too, if you don't use the overly perfumed kind. For the really stubborn stains, after it's clean, I paint it with Behr latex satin paint, using a sponge brush. I bought the paint in the little jar that they sell at Home Depot. One jar, that's it. I just got them to match the color, and as it turns out, SEM is a great primer for that vinyl paint. The vinyl paint sticks to that SEM stuff really well, and after it dries, you simply cannot tell where Behr ends and SEM begins. It doesn't flake or peel. My car looks like it got painted yesterday after I'm done with it. Just watch the rugs is all, because it's really easy to drip. The great thing about latex is it comes up with water.

It's a big job, but if you're keeping the car, it's totally worth it. Good luck.
 

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As for me, I used Volico products for a minor touch-up: their homepage is VOLICO.de - von Liebenstein Consulting - EU SHOP, there's an English version (which helps a lot...) and they sell specific products for leather and interior. The most advanced solution is the one concerning a cleaner, a primer and a topcoat; I ended up using this one (nitro-based) and I was very satisfied with color matching.

Mercedes SLK R 170 Leather+Interior paint scarletred | eBay

Yet, keep in mind that the starting point was the one below.

Cheers,
Guido
 

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