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Discussion Starter #1
Hello Brilliant SLKers.

I have an annoying problem with my instrument panel - 2009 SLK300. Most of the time it works just fine. Until I turn on the radio. It also happens more often when it is cold outside or until the car has been driving awhile and is plenty warm.

It resets. By that I mean the LCDs go dark, the idiot lights come on, and then the analog gauges go to zero. This lasts maybe a second, and then all goes back to normal - except very occasionally the ''check engine" light comes on and tells me (via my tool) that it lost communications with the instrument panel. The analog clock also appears to have a seizure until the panel becomes stable which inevitably will happen during the drive. I have a video I can send to anyone who really wants to see this.

More background. I acquired my car in March from a used dealer who literally acquired it from a little old lady that rarely drove it (I hunted her down and talked to her). It seems the car may have sat for several months over a humid winter in Louisiana during this transition. You know what happens in that case. I have tested the battery and replaced the 31 fuse.

As I am driving the car, I could set my watch to the reset interval. Almost 30 seconds exactly. It's like a capacitor recharge time. Usually without the radio this reset doesn't happen. Unless someone calls my bluetooth connected phone, or maybe I use the turn signal. Voltage/current surges seem to cause it. If the radio is off and I turn it on, pretty much guarantee a reset. During the resetting phase, the radio, headlights and exterior turn signals are unaffected, which leads me to believe this isn't a voltage regulator issue

Anyone else experienced something similar? This seems to be localized to the instrument panel and I am thinking I just need to remove it and send it to Palo Alto Speedo Palo Alto Speedometer: Mercedes Benz , but that is $700 and I am not sure of the problem.

Ideas appreciated.
 

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Hello Brilliant SLKers.



I have an annoying problem with my instrument panel - 2009 SLK300. Most of the time it works just fine. Until I turn on the radio. It also happens more often when it is cold outside or until the car has been driving awhile and is plenty warm.



It resets. By that I mean the LCDs go dark, the idiot lights come on, and then the analog gauges go to zero. This lasts maybe a second, and then all goes back to normal - except very occasionally the ''check engine" light comes on and tells me (via my tool) that it lost communications with the instrument panel. The analog clock also appears to have a seizure until the panel becomes stable which inevitably will happen during the drive. I have a video I can send to anyone who really wants to see this.



More background. I acquired my car in March from a used dealer who literally acquired it from a little old lady that rarely drove it (I hunted her down and talked to her). It seems the car may have sat for several months over a humid winter in Louisiana during this transition. You know what happens in that case. I have tested the battery and replaced the 31 fuse.



As I am driving the car, I could set my watch to the reset interval. Almost 30 seconds exactly. It's like a capacitor recharge time. Usually without the radio this reset doesn't happen. Unless someone calls my bluetooth connected phone, or maybe I use the turn signal. Voltage/current surges seem to cause it. If the radio is off and I turn it on, pretty much guarantee a reset. During the resetting phase, the radio, headlights and exterior turn signals are unaffected, which leads me to believe this isn't a voltage regulator issue



Anyone else experienced something similar? This seems to be localized to the instrument panel and I am thinking I just need to remove it and send it to Palo Alto Speedo Palo Alto Speedometer: Mercedes Benz , but that is $700 and I am not sure of the problem.



Ideas appreciated.


sorry for that,but try to remove the cluster and clean connectors and pcb with acetone also the front sam with all relais , fuse and pcb inside ,,,,
just idea so if any rom data ics pins are filled with moisture !!!
thx


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks

Thanks Samir. I hope to get to it this weekend.

i860, sounds like you have an idea - but not sure what you are telling me.
 

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Sounds like you have a faulty voltage regulator. I would check the the regulators first and make sure those are functional. If that doesn’t fix it, you might have a bad battery. Starting the car could be draining the battery to the point that any other electronics (like the radio or turn signal) is too much of a strain of the system and it shuts down briefly
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Still no go

Well I finally got around to replacing the battery this weekend with a brand new, yellow top, AGM Optima. Got it connected, went in and turned the key on to reset the clock, and the dash was resetting again. So car not running, instrument panel resets, new battery. I believe that would eliminate the battery or voltage regulator as culprits.

What is DAS/Xentry? Not clear on this previous recommendation.
 

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Well I finally got around to replacing the battery this weekend with a brand new, yellow top, AGM Optima. Got it connected, went in and turned the key on to reset the clock, and the dash was resetting again. So car not running, instrument panel resets, new battery. I believe that would eliminate the battery or voltage regulator as culprits.

What is DAS/Xentry? Not clear on this previous recommendation.
Xentry DAS (Diagnostic Assistance System) is the complete diagnosis system that is used to troubleshoot Mercedes-Benz car problems and is the official Mercedes-Benz dealer software. ... To operate Xentry, you will need a laptop with a serial port RS232 to connect the Multiplexer and run the Xentry software.
 

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Well I finally got around to replacing the battery this weekend with a brand new, yellow top, AGM Optima. Got it connected, went in and turned the key on to reset the clock, and the dash was resetting again. So car not running, instrument panel resets, new battery. I believe that would eliminate the battery or voltage regulator as culprits.

What is DAS/Xentry? Not clear on this previous recommendation.
I sent you a private message.
 
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