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Discussion Starter #1
Can anyone describe a safe method for this please? Even a "winshield guy" recommended by my independent M-B service shop was clueless (and I had a replacement unit for him to look at :confused:). Thanx!
 

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Administrator 2009 SLK 55 AMG/Founding Member 2006
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stolen from mbworld. not responsible

1 Open the top.

2 Remove the 4 screws that hold the 2 sun visors on.

3 Gently pull up and out on the upper console it will slide right off. Flip it over and place it on the windshield.

4 Insert a small screwdriver into hole in back of mirror mount.

5 Rotate the mount (using the screwdriver as a lever) in either direction 90 degrees. The mirror will come off the mount.

6 Disconnect the wire plug, connect the new wire plug and put everything back in the reverse order of the above.

Make sure,
There are no wires on top of the garage door unit or it will bulge out when you put the console back on.

Pull all the perimeter rubber back out over the edges of the console when finished.

I disconnected the wire at the plug to disable the microphone, just in case anyone is listening in.
[:)]
 

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Hope it helps a little
 

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Follow on question . . .

Can anyone describe a safe method for this please? Even a "winshield guy" recommended by my independent M-B service shop was clueless (and I had a replacement unit for him to look at :confused:). Thanx!
Dealing with mirror looseness . . .

I've seen several threads on this but I'm not sure I'm satisfied with any particular answer yet. So, since the next problem in the queue might be dealing with some looseness, what is the BEST way to eliminate it in the mirror mounting?

I have a bit of a problem with it now, though not too terrible. (Yet?) It wasn't bad after they replaced my "smoked" mirror, but it got a lot worse when they replaced my windshield. Most of the descriptions I've seen revolve around just filling/shimming the gap in the mirror mount with tape or some other material.

Any other suggestions?
 

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Fantastic job!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Dealing with mirror looseness . . .

I've seen several threads on this but I'm not sure I'm satisfied with any particular answer yet. So, since the next problem in the queue might be dealing with some looseness, what is the BEST way to eliminate it in the mirror mounting?

I have a bit of a problem with it now, though not too terrible. (Yet?) It wasn't bad after they replaced my "smoked" mirror, but it got a lot worse when they replaced my windshield. Most of the descriptions I've seen revolve around just filling/shimming the gap in the mirror mount with tape or some other material.

Any other suggestions?
You may want to remove/replace the mirror as described above. As tight as the fit is I can't imagine any looseness. My first attempt at re-mounting went on crooked - the gap (not much) at the base of the mirror relative to the glass when "seated" must be equal all-around. If you still have a looseness problem I'd suggest a dolop of silicone adhesive on the windshield lug and then re-mount the mirror. It should provide support but also shear when twisted-off in the future.
 

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. . . . As tight as the fit is I can't imagine any looseness. . . .
Well it certainly surprised me, but I've seen several descriptions of the problem (and solutions) online so I'm not alone. The "dealer," when I brought it in for the "lava lamp" failure, acted as if there was a pretty good chance that they might break the window when they replaced the mirror . . . (I did have a couple of star cracks in it at the time) so I'm a bit cautious about putting too much pressure on the mount.

I'll give it a bit more twist tomorrow. I've included a picture of the mount on my old mirror. Anyone see anything obvious?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It may be an optical illusion but the right hand "clip" in the pic looks curved - they should both be straight/parallel looking down at them.
Is your replacement windshield OEM? If not, the mirror lug may be slightly out of tolerance allowing movement - just a thought.
AND if the "dealer" is scared about breaking the windshield by removing the mirror they don't know what they're doing :td: I't's a pretty smooth operation after you've done it once. Wish I could be more help...
 

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It may be an optical illusion but the right hand "clip" in the pic looks curved - they should both be straight/parallel looking down at them.
Is your replacement windshield OEM? If not, the mirror lug may be slightly out of tolerance allowing movement - just a thought.
AND if the "dealer" is scared about breaking the windshield by removing the mirror they don't know what they're doing :td: I't's a pretty smooth operation after you've done it once. Wish I could be more help...

That is the old one that I got back. Here is a picture as straight down onto the mount as I could make it . . . Are you speaking of the two small "tangs" with the little gripping curves on them? That piece is pretty much just a piece of stamped spring steel which gets most of its "spring" from the bottom right angle bends, plus some additional "spring" from the "wings" (the small tabs) pressing against the inside of the housing. I think most of that "angling" is from the camera view. I measure about 1/64" (.015") differential top to bottom. (Typically pieces like that aren't held very tight to begin with, and it had gone through at least one removal . . . and I don't know how gently, or not.)

Think if I pull the new mirror back off and bend the tangs in a bit more that might tighten the "mount" up?

(Actually "My" dealer sent me back out on the road on (perhaps more than) one occasion with a slow tire leak caused by an embedded finishing nail. And even when they "found" it (I did buy the set of tires from them) they didn't even make me an offer to sell me a new tire! (They told me that since they are not a "tire dealer" they can't/don't offer "road hazard" even though the set cost me like they did . . . :mad:)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
That looks pretty much like mine - upon looking at it again the "wings" have a slight curve to them. Sorry to mislead you.
If you'd like to PM your address to me I'd be happy to send you the clip from my old mirror (replaced b/c the dimming quit) - it never exhibited any looseness.
 

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Billr, you do not have enough posts to pm. do this to get your posts up:


If you wish to become PM (Private Message)- capable, you need 15 posts. To get those 15 posts quickly, just go to the ‘New members introduce yourself here’ section and welcome enough new members to obtain your needed posts to PM.
 

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Let me say how valuable this site is. I own a 2001 SLK 230 Kompressor. In the few months I've had it, I've read and re-read articles here, got the courage up to start the projects. And they've all turned out wonderful, if I say so myself! Even my mechanically inclined brothers were impressed at their sister. So far I've replaced the rear-view mirror with a new one (not that difficult to remove and replace), removed the center console, cleaned the chipped paint off of it and repainted it, replaced the cigarette lighter console that was broken, replaced the red-top switch, and replaced bulbs in the tail-lights and the overhead console. All with the info found here. Next task: to figure out this top that sticks at times. Windows go down, trunk goes up, I can hear the switches in the roof open, then nothing. Nothing until I bang on it with my fist. Then, it opens. Tried some suggested lubricants, but they actually made it worse. Wondering if it could be in a switch or is it actually the rubber seal sticking to the roof. Any suggestions where to start with this one?
 

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you have to remove the headliner and then use spray some lubricant (wd40) inside the black two wires that cross in the center and go back. They are for unlocking the rear pillar locks which opens with spring tension when front lock disengages. If they became sticky the front lock will open you will hear the hydraulic motor working but top will not lower. (And it will suddenly work if you are lucky.)

But if motor stops and /or red light blinks, then you have a different problem.

hope this helps.
:Beer:
 

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additionally you can remove the c pillar covers (white) with your hand and lubricate the lock mechanism for smoother operation.

if fisting helps I'm sure this will be the cure. I had the same.
 

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additionally you can remove the c pillar covers (white) with your hand and lubricate the lock mechanism for smoother operation.

if fisting helps I'm sure this will be the cure. I had the same.

Pics for Murat - pull cables & C-pillar catch. There are two cable wires at the main latching point in the front middle of the roof, one going each way; and there is a catch in both rear pillars near the top. (The C-pillar covers just pull off even though they sound like they are breaking!! :mad: Note the locations of the push pins (the black spots) and try to pull on the trim as near there as possible.)

If you pull the C-pillar covers you can watch if those latches seem to stick first. If they stuck, lube them. (Lube the cable as a last resort since the lube will tend to collect dirt (unless you use a dry graphite) and then they will be very difficult to clean later.) Since you hear the main catches (front left and right roof corners) turn, the cables have to be moving unless they are totally broken. Since a "thunk" gets "something to release, like Murat, I would suspect it to be the catches sticking in the C-pillar.

Probably should have started another thread on this so others could have found it more easily.

:Beer:
 

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Thanks, Murat and lilred. I'll give this a try on my next few days off. I hate to take it to a dealer for something I should be able to fix here. I'll keep you posted on the progress! Thank you again :)
 
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