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Hi Members

Can anyone confirm whether or not the following part number for ignition tumbler work on '99 SLK230?

P/N A2024601104

Ignition switch sticks sometimes. It still works, however there is some play in the barrell.

I would like to change it before it dies completely.

I welcome all opinions

Thanks
 

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Administrator 2009 SLK 55 AMG/Founding Member 2006
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first moving your post to the r170 general discussion section

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Administrator 2009 SLK 55 AMG/Founding Member 2006
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Post your vin and we can look up the part number and confirm it for you
 

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Administrator 2009 SLK 55 AMG/Founding Member 2006
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97,392 Posts
part 50

tumbler without lock a2024601104 is correct

 

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Hi Members

Can anyone confirm whether or not the following part number for ignition tumbler work on '99 SLK230?

P/N A2024601104

Ignition switch sticks sometimes. It still works, however there is some play in the barrell.

I would like to change it before it dies completely.

I welcome all opinions

Thanks
Hi and welcome from Houston, TX!
My advice is to check the lock and tumbler and change it before it dead locks! I had mine wiggling for a while and then just went ahead and changed the whole assembly. I heard that our ignition locks fail so early because they are so sensitive and this causes early wearing. From now on I always keep my wheels straight before turning the car off and taking the key out of ignition to prolong the ignition lock's life.
You need a special tool to remove the tumbler. But what I'm trying to say is that changing the tumbler alone might not solve the issue.
If it happens that your ignition key locks dead then it will require some drilling and additional labor. I can try to ask my friend who works at the dealership to locate the part number for that tool so we can all have it =)
 

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cheap solution to a tricky ignition switch

As the diagram shows,,,in part number 10 there is a little square chamber, that has a shiny thin metal cover, almost like tin,,it measures more or less 1 square centimeter....Lift the metal thin cover,,,inmediatele you are going to find a spiral spring that pushes a little steel ball,,,,,,that steel ball is the one that blocks the shift or turning of the key,,,eliminate the spring and the steel ball, put back the metal cover over the empty chamber and voila,,,,,,your problem is solved,,,,,,the key is going to move like silk and will never give you problems,,,,,I did it a year ago,,, and I can´t be happier......you have nothing to loose cause at the dealer shop they want to sell you the whole switch for almost a thousand dollars...... I did it on a try and error basis and worked even the steering wheel lock keep working.....Hope it helps you
 

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Unless you can force the situation to reach the desired result, changing the ignition barrel will require a new key blade for the main key of the car, and use the old key body for the proximity (drive) logic and the old key body/fob for the remote function.
But the other three key locks in the car (boot, driver's door and glove box) will still be on the old key blade, so you will want a simple way to have these to the same standard.

So, if you are buying new, try to get the lock to the existing defined standard. Since you can order a key from MB for your existing locks, you should be able to order a lock to the existing key.
If you are buying second-hand, then be sure to get the full set, with good backlash in the lock, and preferably with two blades. Note that getting a blade cut has proved problematic in the past.
 

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Could you draw something to show these parts? I see the diagram you refer to. Is the silver part the chrome circle the key goes through?
 
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