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**Premium Member '02 R170 SLK V8 5.0 & '00 SLK320
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The reason the 4 Cylinder is easier is because it is longer, so Alternator is further forward, see my comment re my V8 R170 .................

No magic tricks involved, they never will be a 15 minute Alternator swap ;) Have a look at a twin turbo V12 W220 S Class or a C215 CL, Alternator is Coolant Cooled and same location, absolute Bas errrm Bear of a job, a whole day on yer first one, I can do those V12's in about 5 hours now having done a few.

A Halfrauds Socket set isn't gonna cut the mustard either, a good selection of quality tools is essential too, round one bolt and it could cost you hours ;)
What I mean is, Deep Sockets, half Deep, regular, loads of different length extensions and other tools, short medium and long spanners, including ratcheting ones etc etc etc ;)

I pull 'em using a combination of access from above and underneath, not an easy job, except on my V8, which is because the Engine is identical but "2 cylinders" longer, a lot of stuff on that Car is much easier ;)

Many cars including V6's you just gotta rattle a load of bits outta the way until access around Alternator is better ;)
 
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**Premium Member '02 R170 SLK V8 5.0 & '00 SLK320
Joined
7,884 Posts
Oh btw no need to remove Water Pump !! That opens up a whole new Rabbit Warren, once bolts are out ya just gotta twist it and turn it a bit to manouvre it out ;)

"J j j j jiggle it about Nurse Gladys" 馃ぃ .............. "Open All Hours" TV series for our friends afar ;)
 
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**Premium Member '02 R170 SLK V8 5.0 & '00 SLK320
Joined
7,884 Posts
So if you got both bolts out what's the issue ...................

If it wont come outta the bracket it's just stuck because there is a sliding collar in one of the mounting bolt holes, carefully pry it outwards from the Engines mount brackets ;)
 
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**Premium Member '02 R170 SLK V8 5.0 & '00 SLK320
Joined
7,884 Posts
Try undo the bolt through Chassis to Engine mount and lift the engine a bit on that side ;) I've done a few but normally managed to get them out by doing Alternator acrobatics, but perhaps lifting that side of engine would help, it's only one bolt and easy to undo that mount from underneath ;)
 
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**Premium Member '02 R170 SLK V8 5.0 & '00 SLK320
Joined
7,884 Posts
you might have ATF pipes in the way to get it out from underneath
Now you've said that, although my memory isn't what it was, that makes perfect sense ;)
That is why I mentioned undoing and jacking the Engine ......... Of the handful I've done on R170 some of those customers had Manuals, and some had Autos, (none have 4 Cylinder cars), therefore I would be willing to bet the ones I did without undoing the Mount were Manual Trans Cars ;)
 

**Premium Member '02 R170 SLK V8 5.0 & '00 SLK320
Joined
7,884 Posts
Yes, I think the consensus here is Auto Transmission is a real beast and Manual G/Box is a bit of a beast 馃ぃ
 

**Premium Member '02 R170 SLK V8 5.0 & '00 SLK320
Joined
7,884 Posts
The biggest issue with Pump removal is the Coolant passage Sealing between Timing Case and Block, IIRC Pump removal entails removing 2 off longer bolts that go through the Case either side of that seal and I know for a fact that at least 2 folks on forums have ended up with Coolant getting into their Oil ...............

I know not whether hammers and pry bars etc were also involved, but whilst, as @Australian correctly says, it is not a bad job to R & I a Pump, i would only risk it if the Pump actually needs replaced, because if you then have to remove Timing Case to reseal the bugger, as Petri found out, that is a bloody nightmare of a job ;)
 
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**Premium Member '02 R170 SLK V8 5.0 & '00 SLK320
Joined
7,884 Posts
The one I had to sort out for the local tight fisted git who declined my quote, FIY'd it and screwed his V6 C class up wasn't ;)
 
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