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*Registered
2001 SLK320
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50 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone have a stand-up-a-coin smooth idle? My V6 has always had a mild vibration to it. No enough to disturb the cabin, but enough to make a glass of water create very visible ripples.
 

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Founding Member 2006
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113,396 Posts
your 230 is a 6 cylinder?
 

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Founding Member 2006
Joined
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113,396 Posts
in line 4, no?

SLK 230
Kompressor
1996–2000M111.973
2.3 L I4 supercharged
142 kW (190 hp)
at 5,300 rpm
280 N⋅m (207 lb⋅ft)
at 2,500–4,800 rpm
7.4 s
2000–2004M111.983
2.3 L I4 supercharged
145 kW (194 hp)
at 5,500 rpm
280 N⋅m (207 lb⋅ft)
at 2,500 rpm
7.3 s
 

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*Registered
2001 SLK320
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50 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
I changed out for the SLK320. Profile is updated.
On the topic of idle, I just did the M113 throttle body/MAF swap. It's now idling rough and misfiring(flashing CEL light) . All hoses are connect and the MAF sensor from the M112 was carried over.
Is this one of the times where I should reset the idle and throttle or should I just let it ride out until it finds a smoother idle. I've seen conflicting evidence for both.
 

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*Premium Member
2001 SLK200K/2001 SLK320
Joined
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3,579 Posts
I changed out for the SLK320. Profile is updated.
On the topic of idle, I just did the M113 throttle body/MAF swap. It's now idling rough and misfiring(flashing CEL light) . All hoses are connect and the MAF sensor from the M112 was carried over.
Is this one of the times where I should reset the idle and throttle or should I just let it ride out until it finds a smoother idle. I've seen conflicting evidence for both.
A faulty MAF will do that for sure (fingerprints etc). Check that the electric connection is seated correctly

As an aside, and something that I recently discovered, this is also where the original info on the swap is a bit misleading. If you dig deep into WIS and compare M112 and M113, you'll find that the MAF Sensor itself is the same p/n in both, it's just that the housing is different, no need to swap the sensor - just swap the complete housing + sensor

M113 TB requires an O Ring ..

And I just picked up a Throttle Body + MAF Housing and Sensor + L Bend, all from a CL500 for the princely sum of £40 :cool: Dont really need them but .. Spares lol 🙃
 

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**Premium Member '02 R170 SLK V8 5.0 & '00 SLK320
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8,304 Posts
SDS to reset / initialize the new Throttle would be a good place to start ;)

I don't think that the key and pedal dance is enough especially when setting up a bigger TB, but as always I'll stand corrected because I've never fitted one to a V6, I just decided to fit the whole M113 V8 :ROFLMAO:
 

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*Registered
2001 SLK320
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50 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If you dig deep into WIS and compare M112 and M113, you'll find that the MAF Sensor itself is the same p/n in both, it's just that the housing is different, no need to swap the sensor - just swap the complete housing + sensor.... M113 TB requires an O Ring
Interesting, the M112 sensor wasn't giving me any trouble before the conversion but it'd be worth a shot to swap in the M113 sensor just to check. I will also admit I used a paper gasket rather than on o-ring for the new throttle body so a leak might also be a possibility. O'Reilly's desk boy isn't doing me any favors.

Should have a better idea by end of today.

Dave, we can't all be as cool as you;) whether it be having a V8 or SDS.
 

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*Premium Member
2001 SLK200K/2001 SLK320
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3,579 Posts
I had a conversation with an Ebay seller as regards that very O Ring, went something like this..

eBay Seller: please supply VIN so we can check p/n
Me: I know the p/n is correct
Seller: please supply VIN in case of complications
Me: VIN supplied but it wont do you any good
Seller: This part is not for your vehicle
Me: I'll be the judge of that thank you, please supply the part that I've ordered and I'll take full responsibility
Seller: We will not accept part as a return if it doesn't fit
Me: I've already stated that I'll take full responsibility, just send the bloody part, it's only £8 jeez!

Finally, I got the part 👏


EDIT
----------------------------------------------

If you dig deep into WIS and compare M112 and M113, you'll find that the MAF Sensor itself is the same p/n in both, it's just that the housing is different, no need to swap the sensor - just swap the complete housing + sensor
I was mistaken it's not in WIS. MB say that it's only available as a complete unit, possibly to stop us from putting our grubby fingers on them - you have to go looking elsewhere for that nugget of info ..

Bits, some relevant, some irrelevant, some somewhat surprising:

W220 - M113 - V8 - GASOLINE ENGINE 5.0 L 306 PS (225 kW) 4966cc 302 BHP

Elbow: A1121400218
Elbow lower seal: A1121590080
Elbow upper seal: A1121590180

M113 MAF Housing complete with Sensor: A1130940048
M112 MAF Housing complete with Sensor: A1120940048
MAF Sensor Only (note compatibility list): https://www.autodoc.co.uk/ngk/10548564

Throttle Body: A1131410125
Throttle Body Sealing Ring: A3059970345
 

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*Registered
2001 SLK320
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50 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well, after playing with all combination of MAFs, housings, and throttle bodies, I’ve come to the conclusion my SLK doesn’t want more air. The only way to get it to run smooth again was to throw all the narrow, original M112 bits. During testing, it sounded like it was running on one bank.

I feel the only thing I’ve accomplished today is the acceleration of fouling my spark plugs. The tailpipe smells like a boat dock from running so rich during testing.
 

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**Premium Member '02 R170 SLK V8 5.0 & '00 SLK320
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8,304 Posts
SDS Diagnose and the Resets ................

Many folks have done the conversion successfully, and get more power, either your parts you fitted have a fault or it's because you didn't do it properly which includes the relearn of the Throttle and the Fuelling adaptives.

I don't sell SDS and I don't recommend SDS because I think I'm cool, same as I don't try and undo Wheelnuts with Pliers instead of a Socket and a Breaker Bar, yes, on any Mercedes especially R170 SDS really is as important as a Lug Nut Wrench !!

Still, your Car, your choice.
 

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*Premium Member
2001 SLK200K/2001 SLK320
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3,579 Posts
There are 3 components that make the whole package: 1.Airbox 2. MAF 3. Throttle Body. Each of these will/should add a small % of WHP.

I did mine in the accepted 3 stage order without any issues at all i.e. 1 month with the airbox, 1 month airbox + MAF and then finally adding the TB - no problems.

If I lived on the other side of the pond I'd be tempted by the NeedsWings DCAI as I'm still not sure about that huge slab of black plastic airbox, but taxes and postage make it cost prohibitive over here 🤷‍♂️ :confused:

 

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I laughed reading all of it! Not to a specific person, nor idea. Just every now and then we see same (deja vu) things!
As a side observer (we all know there is a difference between me stucked with a problem and that other guy stucked with a problem) all the advised solutions/ideas/POVs ar as we walked that path. Yet every coins has at least 2 sides. So the battery reset (not throttle body, not adaptive..) help with parts exchange. Not always, but it's a "maybe not helping, but not making it worse" thing. After that pedal, key combo that not always works. And the aftermath of all that.
I had no SDS when tried the throttle body/adaptive reset (key to mos || gold the brakes...) And I felt nothing in regards to car reactions. After that I saw (thanks to @M4rCu5) the adaptive learnings curve is missing 6000 to 4000 RPMS data, yes there is always IF!
As a Summary, mine is 1998 M111 and stock, OP's has been "touched", if all the (don't shoot, just sayin') components, software, hardware editions match simple battery reset is a must!
If the "black box" has been replaced, SDS is a must. Or good indipendend garage to scan and adjust accordingly.
Plus every now and then, I do forget that I replaced something small, considered irrelevant for the case thing at that, very same time...probably OP missed a bit or two!
 

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*Premium Member
2001 SLK200K/2001 SLK320
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3,579 Posts
I laughed reading all of it! Not to a specific person, nor idea. Just every now and then we see same (deja vu) things!
As a side observer (we all know there is a difference between me stucked with a problem and that other guy stucked with a problem) all the advised solutions/ideas/POVs ar as we walked that path. Yet every coins has at least 2 sides. So the battery reset (not throttle body, not adaptive..) help with parts exchange. Not always, but it's a "maybe not helping, but not making it worse" thing. After that pedal, key combo that not always works. And the aftermath of all that.
I had no SDS when tried the throttle body/adaptive reset (key to mos || gold the brakes...) And I felt nothing in regards to car reactions. After that I saw (thanks to @M4rCu5) the adaptive learnings curve is missing 6000 to 4000 RPMS data, yes there is always IF!
As a Summary, mine is 1998 M111 and stock, OP's has been "touched", if all the (don't shoot, just sayin') components, software, hardware editions match simple battery reset is a must!
If the "black box" has been replaced, SDS is a must. Or good indipendend garage to scan and adjust accordingly.
Plus every now and then, I do forget that I replaced something small, considered irrelevant for the case thing at that, very same time...probably OP missed a bit or two!
The way to work this is to add in stages, this will tell you which addition is failing (obviously)

1. Larger Airbox + for now, optional 3" pipes 'n stuff ~ if all is satisfactory, move on to (2)

2. Add M113 MAF Housing complete with Sensor or buy the security hex and swap the s/h one for your existing known-to-be-good sensor, once again ~ if all is satisfactory, move on to final stage (3)

[It's worth noting that 'Swings DCAI and SCAI incorporate the first two stages of the ever-popular shade-tree homemade upgrade into their hardware]

3. Add 500 Throttle Body including Tolkienesque Precious Viton O-Ring, possibly with reset and adaptations if/as required ..

[It's also worth noting that 'Swings TB's come with The One Ring (also available separately)]

NeedsWings Performance Products. Throttle Body Upgrade M112

.. and how the hell they can do that for <$100 is beyond me o_O

I did meticulous clean of my TB first, dunno if that made a difference or not but I'd certainly hope so..
Automotive lighting Gas Telephone Corded phone Watch
Gas Wood Machine Metal Camera accessory

.. and I didn't have any problems at all ..

.. apart from getting The One Ring to sit in the channel at the rear of the inlet manifold, apols for no pic of said ring but that's attached to the car and I haven't got a spare but I've got a spare manifold and as you can see, the ring sits just in that channel that's right next to the lip of the intake
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Audio equipment Door Gas


- in situ you are fighting (a) blindness, you can't see the channel due to location - and (b) gravity, get it in place and it falls off whilst you're trying to fit the TB .. solution in my case was to apply a thin smear of 5970 to hold it in place whilst I went about my business ;)

HTH
 

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2001 SLK320
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50 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
While the SDS fund is currently being built, I’ve done some more poking around to find the source of the intermittent rough idle. I noticed there’s a hissing sound coming from the driver’s side bank, somewhat underneath the intake box.

I followed the SAI and EGR but there doesn’t seem to be a vacuum hose from these systems running in that directions.
This is more or less a roundabout way of asking if I can run the car with the intake off while I search for the leak.
 

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2001 SLK320
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
As in this thread, it’ll be repeated until the world ends: engine mounts, engine mounts, engine mounts. After that, is your vibration a consistent small vibration? I’m dealing that plus the occasional balk that’ll shake the cabin at idle.
 

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2003 SLK320
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20 Posts
As in this thread, it’ll be repeated until the world ends: engine mounts, engine mounts, engine mounts. After that, is your vibration a consistent small vibration? I’m dealing that plus the occasional balk that’ll shake the cabin at idle.
I believe the engine mounts were changed when I purchased it. It's just kind of vibrating and idling around 7k RPM.
 
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