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Discussion Starter #1
I have leaking cylinders and cant get my top to go down. I need to lower it to remove the cylinders. Is there a special method to accomplish this?

This is what I'm thinking...

Release system pressure.
Lower windows.
Release trunk via cables.
Open trunk.
Manually unlock roof.
Manually lower top.
 

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Administrator Founding Member since 2006
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103,251 Posts
Procedure should be in your owner's manual.
Also search our forum
 

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Premium Member 2005 SLK55 AMG; 2005 SLK350
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That's about right. I'd have three people if possible. I just did this recently. This is somewhat dangerous, if you're not sure, have a pro do it.

It helps to have an expendable couch pillow (or a substitute, perhaps a shoe box stuffed with newspaper) at your disposal.

1) Turn the key off, open the trunk "grocery style", open the emergency relief valve, and release the left and right trunk lid latches by pulling their cables. Close the trunk gently (so as not to re-engage the latches).

2) Next unlock the roof from the windshield. Make sure that you rotate the mechanism fully -- far enough to pull the attached cables (which disengage the roof-to-window hinge locks). If you don't do this, the roof and rear window won't cooperate during the latter steps.

3) Next raise the trunk lid fully rearward. Have your first helper stand behind the car and hold the lid in the maximum upright position. The clearance between the roof and trunk lid is minimal, without hydraulic pressure interference is possible. Every millimeter counts here to ensure adequate clearance. You don't have to pull it hard, just ensure it's at 100% of its apex.

4) Next you and helper #2 should push the roof back and away from the windshield. Once you have it back 6-12 inches, put the couch pillow between the roof and windshield and let the roof rest against it. Stop and take a good look at the hinges between the roof and rear window to: 1) ensure the hinges are flexing, and 2) see how the mechanism is going to pinch your fingers.

5) Next raise the roof until it reaches its tipping point -- the point at which gravity could take it either way, fore or aft. You'll feel it. At this point the roof has maximum potential energy and is most dangerous -- it's not heavy at this point, but don't let go of it -- hold it at the tipping point. Take another look at how the mechanism is going to pinch your fingers.

6) Finally, and this is the most important part: Slowly lay the roof back into the trunk in a controlled manner. As you start, gravity will want to take over -- don't let it. If there's any doubt about the safety of your fingers, lift the roof back up to the tipping point and try again.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Awesome!

Thank you. I especially appreciate the safety tips. I've ordered the seal kit. Just need some free time and a day or two of good weather. It doesn't look like a very difficult job now that I know how to do. It would have been almost impossible to diagnose and repair without all of your help. Thanks to all. I will do my best to take plenty of pics and post them after.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
How many cylinders are you rebuilding?
I'm going to start with three. The one to lock/unlock the roof, and the the two roof cylinders. The headliners shows the tell tale sign that the cylinder has leaked. The hydraulic fluid just pours of of the two roof cylinders. I may do the two for the trunk too. I haven't really got a good look at them yet.
 
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