In a word,
You keep that battery, it's gonna leave you stranded sooner rather than later.
The quesion will be asked so I will:
what's the mfg date on it? Based on what you've said the date really does not matter.
New is required
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Turbo,
Thanks for that info. The next time it does not start I'll try the procedure you give. I did try starting it this morning and it started immediately after sitting all night, and the voltage was around 10 prior to starting.
I did take a look at the battery, picture below, and the date is 6/21, so it's only two years old.
It HAS been said before, by me several times , but these cars are seriously sensitive!
WAY to sensitive if you ask me, but there's 15 "computers" in the R171 and 30 (!!) in the R172.. The battery is at the heart of this. If any of the computers don't work properly (for whatever reason, in this case maybe power?!), then you'll get these .. "weird" issues. Almost impossible to pin down, there's seldom any actual triggered errors to go by.
I recommend getting a name brand battery, instead of that .. whatever that is!! Also, AGM batteries have been noted not to .. "work as it should" (weird errors, gone away once it was replaced with a "normal" one). Some swear by it, some have had issues..
Also, don't cheap out on the power. I got a Varta Silver 74Ah for my 55 and it was MUCH more responsive after that. My old battery was not at all bad (I HAD gone too low a few times - although not zero!), which takes a toll on the battery over time. It was a few years old, so I changed it anyway, just because I wanted peace of mind. Don't go below 70Ah, that's IMO just borderline..
Considering how "cheap" (all things considered) a new, PROPER/KNOWN-GOOD, battery is (I payed £93 for mine, which is a bit steep but by no means horribly more than any other, cheaper brand), I'd recommend replacing it "just because". It should be done regularly anyway, because of aforementioned considerations.
Don't go cheap, this is a high performance sports car, it deserves good quality parts. No point in trying to save £10, £20 or even £30 when it's very likely to be a problem in the long run..
If the error/problem persists after that, at least you know it's absolutely not the battery, and I'd start looking at replacing those sensors. Again, "just because".
We're usually VERY resistant to "replace parts at random" here, which is very good and correct. BUT, there are parts that "should" be replaced, "just because". Just because they're very likely to be a problem, they're very likely to cause issues "shortly" (if they're not already! ), because it can be very difficult to pin down the error to something specific, and are known to go bad, AND that are cheap enough that it won't cause an economic ruin. EVEN if you have to get a professional to replace them for you. But both of these are simple and quick enough, so even if you only have a basic knowledge on how to use a spanner, you can do it. Maybe with a bit of guidance, but still .
They're only about £40 a pop. Not sure how many you have, but I have one of each in my 55 - some have two CAM shaft sensors. Not sure which engines have that though..
, but these cars are seriously sensitive!WAY to sensitive if you ask me, but there's 15 "computers" in the R171 and 30 (!!) in the R172.. The battery is at the heart of this. If any of the computers don't work properly (for whatever reason, in this case maybe power?!), then you'll get these .. "weird" issues. Almost impossible to pin down, there's seldom any actual triggered errors to go by.
I recommend getting a name brand battery, instead of that .. whatever that is!!
Also, AGM batteries have been noted not to .. "work as it should" (weird errors, gone away once it was replaced with a "normal" one). Some swear by it, some have had issues..Also, don't cheap out on the power. I got a Varta Silver 74Ah for my 55 and it was MUCH more responsive after that. My old battery was not at all bad (I HAD gone too low a few times - although not zero!), which takes a toll on the battery over time. It was a few years old, so I changed it anyway, just because I wanted peace of mind. Don't go below 70Ah, that's IMO just borderline..
Considering how "cheap" (all things considered) a new, PROPER/KNOWN-GOOD, battery is (I payed £93 for mine, which is a bit steep but by no means horribly more than any other, cheaper brand), I'd recommend replacing it "just because". It should be done regularly anyway, because of aforementioned considerations.
Don't go cheap, this is a high performance sports car, it deserves good quality parts. No point in trying to save £10, £20 or even £30 when it's very likely to be a problem in the long run..
If the error/problem persists after that, at least you know it's absolutely not the battery, and I'd start looking at replacing those sensors. Again, "just because".
We're usually VERY resistant to "replace parts at random" here, which is very good and correct. BUT, there are parts that "should" be replaced, "just because"
. Just because they're very likely to be a problem, they're very likely to cause issues "shortly" (if they're not already! ), because it can be very difficult to pin down the error to something specific, and are known to go bad, AND that are cheap enough that it won't cause an economic ruin. EVEN if you have to get a professional to replace them for you. But both of these are simple and quick enough, so even if you only have a basic knowledge on how to use a spanner, you can do it. Maybe with a bit of guidance, but still .They're only about £40 a pop. Not sure how many you have, but I have one of each in my 55 - some have two CAM shaft sensors. Not sure which engines have that though..
If it makes you feel any better I swopped out Bosch at 2 years. battery said it was OK but it wasn't. Yuasa 3096 was around £72 (UK)
Also as discussed before, some of us get all the lights on the dash and give the car 5 elephants before cranking. Just give it chance to decide if it wants to play.
Numerous reports of anything around 12v being a problem.
Battery is quickest, cheapest and easiest thing to change, if the problem is elsewhere it'll take time and/or money to chase it.
remember the old days, check; battery,plugs and fuel - still true today!
my 2 pennyworth
Yuasa 3096 was around £72 (UK)Also as discussed before, some of us get all the lights on the dash and give the car 5 elephants before cranking. Just give it chance to decide if it wants to play.
Numerous reports of anything around 12v being a problem.
Battery is quickest, cheapest and easiest thing to change, if the problem is elsewhere it'll take time and/or money to chase it.
remember the old days, check; battery,plugs and fuel - still true today!
my 2 pennyworth
After finding my boot bulb removed and reading here about battery drain from it, always a good idea to put the phone in boot on video if suspected drain somewhere?If it makes you feel any better I swopped out Bosch at 2 years. battery said it was OK but it wasn't.
Also as discussed before, some of us get all the lights on the dash and give the car 5 elephants before cranking. Just give it chance to decide if it wants to play.
Numerous reports of anything around 12v being a problem.
Battery is quickest, cheapest and easiest thing to change, if the problem is elsewhere it'll take time and/or money to chase it.
remember the old days, check; battery,plugs and fuel - still true today!
my 2 pennyworth
My guy did (even though its a 172) but didn't call it "registering" to the extent that he made sure everything functioned as normal so ......
www.midtronics.com
.
Battery Registration: What, Why and How To Do It?
What is battery registration, and why is it required on some vehicles? Here’s what you need to know about the process and how registration needs to occur.
www.midtronics.com
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