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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi everyone!

MY ABS/BRAKE/AES LIGHTS KEEP STAYING LIT AND IT DRIVES FUNNY! ALSO MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT AND THAT CIRCLE BRAKE SYMBOL THING COMES ON...

Took to Mercedes they said my catalytic converter module is bad which is why the check engine light stays lit, and my brake sensor module is bad why all those brake lights stays lit. they said need new modules and parts are $1500 each...:mad:
 

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Discussion Starter #2
short circuit? needs alignment?

by the way.... I notice when I drive and hit a small bump on the street or something I hear a crackling noise, like a circuit shortage on the driver side dash area by the door. I've been combing through these forums for any sign of hope and I hear it might be the fuse light box thinging needs to be replaced. I might be a chick and pronounce things with thinging but I am very good with my hands and mechanically inclined ;).. Had a dusty Rover that's practically extinct for goodness sakes! :)

the dealership also said I need an alignment...could that be causing the brake issue?
 

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Sounds like a wheel speed sensor, I had the same lights on my slk 32 and it was the rear passenger wheel, there is one per wheel and water gets into the plug thingy lol. And corodes the connector pins I cleaned mine and all lights went off, you can check them with a ohm meter open=bad/closed=good. As far as the noise you need to check the fuse box you have to open the drivers door and remove the cover on the side of the dash, water can get in there if the top/ window seal is bad but sounds like a bad connection to me. The wheel speed sensor costs under 100 bucks. Nothing if it just needs cleaned I would strongly recommend buying a code reader/diagnostic tool to aide you
:burnout: Rick:burnout:
 

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2nd Xavair suspisions of wheel sensor, although we had the same lights when the Brake Light fuse blew so check the brake lights work!! (fuse box for brake lights is at the end / side of the dash between dash and door behind cover with 2 flat screw release clips!!

on the subject of fuses, is the crackling coming from the fuse box area? if so check it thouroughly! (fuse/wire arcing = fire)

Mark
 

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What's the mileage on yours?
Crackling noise might be a speaker but you never know.
There's a speaker in your door and there's a phone speaker on the inside of the plastic panel on the bottom where your feet rest. Look for the panel with a round "mesh-like" feel.
Also check fuses as per others suggested. There's a main fuse box under the hood on the driver's side.


And there's one inside on the side of the dash after you open the driver's door, secured by two big plastic screws. I usually use quarter to open it =)


Check all the fuses to make sure nothing is blown.
The brake pad light usually indicates worn brake pads. Check if you have "meat" left on them =)
BAS/ESP light might be a wheel speed sensor as others suggested or can bi trigger by the brake light switch module. If you want to ask how to replace it ask slk320chick =) She's the only girl I know of performing contortionist moves :biglaugh:

By saying "Drives Funny", what do you mean? Is it pulling side to side or smth else?
Can be couple things: Tires need balancing, new alignment, I had to replace my steering drag link due to excessive play in it, might also be lower control arm bushings. When these go bad you start having problems with steering and the car pulls.

Also, make sure you don't have a leaking steering fluid hose. R170's are famous for it =) I replaced mine couple months ago or maybe a year ago and it started leaking again. Re-tightened clamps and the problem disappeared for now.
Low fluid will seriously damage your hydraulic steering mechanism. $$$$

If you are handy with tools I'd advise investing in some cheap OBII scanner tool which you can hook up to your phone. These usually cost under $20.
I got myself this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ELM327-v1-5-Bluetooth-Mini-Small-Interface-OBD2-Scanner-Adapter-TORQUE-ANDROID-/161121850964?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item25839c5654&vxp=mtr
and use it with TorqueApp Pro on my Samsung Galaxy tab. It doesn't give you specific codes for roof, etc, but it gives you general codes and sometimes it comes really handy!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
OMG thanks for the picture @JasonM!! always wonder where the the fuse box area was!!!!!!

its definitely not the speaker and Yes!, almost everytime I wash my car the brake/abs/ lights would come on and I would get that noise too!!

you guys are really smart here :hail:. im gonna clean that wheel sensor thing. it didn't show up today at all. its almost like it does it when it feels like.

:)


Thanks again guyzz!!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
by "drives funny" I mean its in limp mode and doesn't go more than 5mph... read the manuel and it says its because it uses half the power of the engine.

but im gonna do all that @JaysonM when the weather warms up out here and let yall know what happens!

thanks!
 

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You're welcome! Pictures are not mine, just looked them up on the internet and all copyrights belong to people who posted them =)
Definitely clean the sensors and hopefully your problem disappears.
As far as for "limp" mode there can be several problems, out of which I know that simple brake light switch behind the brake pedal ($20 part) can cause limp mode sometimes. It's a common issue and Mercedes changed the part like 4 times. Guess the design was "limping". :biglaugh:
Might also be a "yaw rate sensor", or smth else. I'd suggest finding a good indy who has Star diagnostic tool and can read all of the codes for you. Then you will know for sure what's causing the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
turns out my ESP module was bad. had to replace the whole unit! you DONT wanna know how much smh lol. Drives like a champ now!
 

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Great to hear you got it sorted!!
 

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Cheaper Solution to FIX your ESP Module

I know this is an older thread, but I am going to post this reply because i just ran through this same nightmare and didn't want to shell out the huge money for an ESP module. My 2001 SLK320 was doing all the same things, Intermittent BAS/ESP, ABS, Brake, and (O) lights would come on, I would loose my speedometer, and the transmission would be stuck in whatever gear it was in when the lights came on. If I put a standard codereader on it, I would get varying differnt codes, but the one that was always present was P0600 which was described as a "Serial Communications Link" failure.

To repair this, I had to open the ESP module, which is located on the driver's side (LHD) under the hood directly behind the ABS Pump block (has a bunch of brake lines going to it). You can remove the ESP module without disconnecting the brake lines by removing the connecter, then the 2 screws on the front of the whole module, then bend the whole assembly upward to access the four screws holding the ESP module to the hydraulic block. The black ESP box will then slide off of the block. Getting the ESP open is not easy because it is epoxied shut, but I came up with a cool trick to crack her open. if you put on a set of gloves, and use a torch to heat up the end of sharp razor knife, you can work it around the seam of the box to separate the cover from the main housing.

Once I had mine open, the problem was obvious. If you look at the solder joints using a bright light with a magnifying glass or microscope, check for cracked solder joints. They will show up as rings around the through-hole components. My box had a huge problem with the solder joints that went to the connector's pins. About 1/4 of them were degraded and the 4 larger pins (obviously carrying power to the high-current Abs solenoids) were really bad. I resoldered all the connector's pins and any others on the board that looked less than ideal, put the box back together using black adhesive silicone......and violla! I have not had an issue since then.

I have seen lots of reports of these symptoms and nobody ever seemed to post their solution. What was causing this is the ESP module was intermittantly losing power, which was causing one of the CAN serial busses to lock up and not allow other important data to reach the main brain (like wheel speeds, steering angle, etc). My problem was in the ESP module, and other places where this same serial bus hangs out is in the headlight switch, the ABS module, and the traction control module....which I am sure bad solder joints in these could cause identical symptoms. Hope this helps someone.
 

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Adaptel,

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Post #12 needs to be a sticky in the DIY section. Great write up and info.
 

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Thank you for you great article. When I opened my esp module three little 22uF capacitors fell out. I am now in the process of trying to get new ones and solder the little buggers on.
 

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Off topic but my 2002 slk230 135000 miles, the esp light came on now it wont shift out of 1st gear, will a bad esp module make the tranny not operate right?
 

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Off topic but my 2002 slk230 135000 miles, the esp light came on now it wont shift out of 1st gear, will a bad esp module make the tranny not operate right?
This thread is 4 years old
always better to start a new thread

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