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Registered 2009 SLK350
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349 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm replacing the front struts but the wheels will not come off. All lug nuts have been removed but wheel will not budge,,,, it almost seems as if they are bonded onto the rotor.
What am i missing? Do I need to remove some secret hidden bolt or something?
 

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Administrator 2009 SLK 55 AMG/Founding Member 2006
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97,468 Posts
if all nuts are removed. sit on your butt and kick one side of the tire and it will force the other side off. then repeat other side if needed
 

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Registered 2005 SLK350-sold
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997 Posts
Put the bolts back on finger tight, then back them off a turn. Then drive the car in your driveway, rock the wheels, hit the brakes hard. Sometimes just putting the car down on loosened nuts/bolts then shaking the wheel will do it.
 

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245 Posts
See post #2 . Before refitting the wheels smear a very small amount of brake paste onto the mating surface of the back side of each wheel. Just the raised contact area is sufficient. Always tighten the lug bolts to the correct torque. (Brake paste sounds much safer than copper grease!?)
 

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Registered 2009 SLK350
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349 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
if all nuts are removed. sit on your butt and kick one side of the tire and it will force the other side off. then repeat other side if needed
A BFH will help too. Use it on the inside of the tire being careful not to hit the wheel.The wheels do dent easily. BTW a BFH Is a big friggin hammer!
After Multiple attempts using BFH, foot , wooden pry bar and cursing in English and Spanish (Spanish helped) I was finally able to remove wheel. And yes JiminFL I know what a BFH is :grin:,,, I happen to own a couple. 
Thanks for all your help and support :hail::hail:
 

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Founding Member #2 2008 SLK55 AMG
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19,407 Posts
While you have the wheels off, the area where the wheels get stuck are the raised part of the wheel that comes in contact with the wheel hub as mentioned in post no. 5.

Another place is the center of the hub where the cover to the wheel center often rust and may cause it to also almost "weld" against the wheel.

When I get my tires changed, the tire shop allows me to use my steel brush to clean off the rust and apply high-temperature grease (I use high temperature copper grease). I wear gloves and smear a light coat on the aforementioned areas. Do not apply too much grease, only a very light coat. If you think you placed too much grease, use a clean gloved finger and remove the excess.
 

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Premium Member 2001 SLK320/2000 SLK230
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2,719 Posts
My tires were replaced sometime in '15 but someone with a bigger torque wrench than IQ put them on (had to stand on an 18" breaker bar to loosen) and is like they are superglued on. Have been applying penetrating oil around periphery (going in crack) and to hub & beating with a mallet for over 12 hours now (occasional beating & time out for errands/sleep/meals) and nary a budge.

Is there a good way to apply more force say with a 2x4 ?
 

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Registered 2005 SLK350-sold
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997 Posts
I have one of these. Works great, the angle is perfect. They are extendable, and many brands labels are on them. Walmart even sells them.
And when they are too tight, I put my old jack handle over it and have a 4' long handle.
 

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Super Moderator CA 2012 SLK55 AMG w/P30
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13,874 Posts
Although they need to come off, be careful using an "extention" on a breaker bar. Bars are usually unconditionally guaranteed if they break BUT getting that extra leverage on it (by slipping a length of black pipe over the b.b. handle), it may not break the bar but may very well break the head off the bolt.

I used to use my floor jack under the bar to lift it up when trying to loosen the nuts on my Magnum. Turns out they weren't on too tight. Rather the nuts had swelled (chrome outer covering over a regular cast nut) and I couldn't get them past the hole/cylinder in the rim. Eventually, the chrome cap separated from the inner nut and just spun. A real beeyotch getting the nut out (using a slightly undersized socket and hammering the bejeezus on it to crush the chrome and get some purchase on the nut itself).

Just be careful how much torque you apply to get them out. It's possible they have seized in the rim itself.

I think your idea of rust busting is a good one. I'd keep that up for a while along with the hammer-banging on the b.b. Just don't over do it when you're obviously P.O.'d at the whole exercise :surprise: .
 

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Registered 2009 SLK200
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5,056 Posts
3/4 inch Breaker bar with scaffolding tube on the end always gets seized car bolts off wheels i find .
It comes off with a crack to .

But a special Breaker bar like snap on or other well known make but not one that goes in at a long angle and telescopic .
Not man enough .
 

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Premium Member 2006 SLK350
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6,796 Posts
it is corrosion caused by dissimilar metals (aluminium wheels, steel roters). I personally use graphite spray grease.. it wont wash out, and it's impossible to put too much on.
 

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Premium Member 2001 SLK320/2000 SLK230
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2,719 Posts
Had no problem getting the nuts off (just stood on 18" breaker bar). The wheels now...after two days of soaking with PB Blaster and hammering with mallet (broke one center cap removing with adhesive but now could soak hub also.


Two nearside wheels came off easily but finally gave up on the farside wheels as I wanted to drive the car so just put bolts back on and torqued properly. May try loosening the bolts and hitting the brake a few times trick but not tonight.
 

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Super Moderator CA 2012 SLK55 AMG w/P30
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13,874 Posts
One wheel at a time and only drive forward/back 2-4'!

I've never had much luck hammering the tire from the inside (using a 2 lb sledge). I usually have to go to the loose nuts/drive a bit in your driveway.

Super loud bang when it does release is very satisfying I must say :wink:

(Broken)Stud with 3 good ones


Note on the broken stud pic: see the shiny part (4 sections)? That's where your wheel rim is seized/frozen (in all likelyhood, NOT the hub). It may also (probably wlll) be much smaller sections but essentially, that is where your problem lies. I now doubt you'll be able to get any kind of rust penetrant in there.

And even if you could, it's not rust. Like der flieger said, dissimilar metals have bonded to each other. Do the forward/back motion. You could also (without driving) loosen the nuts on one wheel and pushing on a fender, rock it back and forth ie left to right (up and down won't do anything).

Whatever works but don't damage the rim by banging on that--only on the rubber tire itself.
 

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227 Posts
Thank you very much, I have just had same problems, could not remove front wheel , so I gave up and put wheel bolts back.
Will try your method tomorrow,
 

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Registered 2005 SLK55 AMG & 2006 Kleemann 55K S8
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924 Posts
Yes, that is definitely the way to go. I loosen the bolts slightly (1/8") then reverse and slam the brakes, then forward and do the same. You don't need to go far, just like 5'. It pops them loose every time and you don't mess up your wheel or tire!
 
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