Hey guys I have a 1999 slk230 I'm having a issue the car will crank and fire up then immediately shut off and won't crank again until you pull the key out and wait a min start error on the dash just replaced the starter and tried replacing the k40 relay still nothing also I found my alarm won't sound with the key button and horn doesn't work could it be the anti theft possibly thanks
This usually means the chip in your key isn't communicating with the immobiliser behind the dash. It sometimes occurs when someone replaces the battery in their key fob (or otherwise opens the key) and the small chip falls out. It shouldn't because it's stuck in there but sometimes it does. Does your other key work? (you do have two keys?)
OP has "Start Error" message on the dash. This isn't a K40 problem. It's an immobiliser communication problem. "I think "Start Error" might be in your driver's handbook. In mine it's mentioned on page 23 (albeit very briefly). Of course, pre-facelifts could be different.
Start Error doesn't let engine crank (ask me how I know)! @Cutlasskid01
Please provide more details:
K40 replaced, why, with what part number?
Horn not working - unplugged K-40 bad grounds, broken wires!
Do you see START ERROR on the small LCD display instead of mileage? Just after you rotate the key to pos ||?
Else that is important your car for 2 or more years just developed these or new purchase with new Gremlins?
Ah, but it does.
The start error message can let the car start, then die.
In the example I witnessed, the immobilizer brick in dash failed, and was replaced by the MB dealer.
SDS would be required to diagnose, but the indy may not have the expertise to remedy the issue. The dealer had to source a new matched immobilizer from a Mercedes regional technical center.
The immobilizer, ECU, key chip detector ring, and key chip are all required to match and be functioning correctly for the car to start without error.
A workaround would be to replace all these parts with another matched set, but the labor and parts may be more expensive than just let the dealer fix it correctly.
(I'm admittedly a bit fuzzy on if the immobilizer can be matched by dealer/expert tech or if it must be done by MB, @Dave2302 would know)
When the DAS / RF Module, (or a Key) is supplied it has to come from the Regional Parts Distribution Centre (PDC), usually only one per country, UK is Milton Keynes, because they are the only ones who have access to VIN specific data regarding TRP's and they also have the equipment to program a DAS / RF or Keys, the Dealerships do not.
Dealerships are the only ones who can order and fit these new "Theft Relevant" (Immobiliser) Parts, so that on R170 also includes the Motor ECU
If for example you need to buy a new Key they will require ID and proof of ownership.
New Motor ECU's have to be matched to existing TRP's by doing an Initial Start procedure, which is done with SDS.
Now, all that above relates to buying NEW parts from MB. There are many of us who can Virgin and / or Clone good used parts, but this is a very specialist area, not a DIY.
The DIY method is as Rick said, buy a complete already matched set of working parts from a breaker car THE SAME CAR, EXACT SAME CAR ....................
Downsides are Car now reports the wrong VIN on any diagnostic machine, and if that car came from a different terriitory there may be issues such as Engine Faults due to Version Codings, some if not all states in USA check VIN when doing Annual Testing, and also you won't be able to buy a new / spare key for that vehicle from a main dealership because you can't prove your ownership of that wrong VIN !!
The immo issues with OPEL cars and "fake" transponder chips is as described by OP, but MB doesn't work like that, as DAS do not let engine crank unless the Immo report "known" chip.
If the whole system is shot, that is a different story, anyways as it looks 400$ isn't a problem for OP, so why would one be bothered with SDS scan to diagnose if parts dart can take place?
It would work, if Drive Auth actually is your issue, (which it looks likely), no need to mess around changing Steering Lock or Transponder Ring either, simply swap your existing Key Blade into the "new" one
But if it turns out you wasted that $400 without proper Diagnosis, you just wasted half or more the cost of a Clone SDS system !!
This is why so many of us advise folks that SDS pays for itself multiple times over .............
I know a guy who has 4 or 5 MB's and he will tell you that his clone SDS has saved him circa $20,000 over 3-4 years due to not playing Parts Darts !!
Downsides of $399 special :
VIN won't match
May not solve the problem
One key, do you have 2 now? These are very hard to source and expensive.
Key doesn't match door and trunk, more work and or expense there
Unknown reliability of other parts - you may only need the immobilizer, but changing everything, there may be a buggy other part from salvage to introduce a new problem, they don't exhaustively test these things.
Upsides:
Its $399, and might work.
Side effects eh... You didn't really need into the trunk or door if the lock vacuum actuator system fails. (sorry, sarcasm creeps in when solutions get iffy)
Thanks for all the info guys I'm not sure what I'm gonna do, went out today it's not even firing now just clicks I'm all new to this stuff sorry for all the dumb info I'm thankful for all the help you guys can give me
Proper diagnosis using SDS by an experienced operator is the cheapest way to properly diagnose these Cars.
Now, if you had SDS, you don't need that experience, as long as you can put screenshots on this Forum guys can look, perhaps guide you through more steps with SDS and give you the correct conclusion .....................
You can't say that that will happen by going to a main dealership or other any other workshop, unless you have experienced the quality of their work on older MB's and accuracy of pin-pointing their faults first hand
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