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* Premium Member '02 R170 SLK V8 5.0&'00 V6 SLK320
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I can't find the pictures right now, but that is exactly what happened with a few of our V6 BOB Cosworth Blocks when running big Garret twin Turbo's :ROFLMAO:

The BMEP just smashes the Crank Bearings outta the Block ;)
 
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* Premium Member '02 R170 SLK V8 5.0&'00 V6 SLK320
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IIRC we was running around 7:1 Forged Pistons, Billet Steel Cranks and Rods on our Engines, 3 of them ended up like that, was a very expensive FUBAR for not a lot more power, the reliable limit for the best late model Colgne blocks was around 720 Hp with a Girdle incorporated into the Sump ;)
 
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1997 SLK230
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575 Posts
I think we're are getting well away from the OP's original problem. The MAF clamp is, as far as I am aware, primarily to avoid limp at WOT and not for continuous running. I suspect it's a marginal requirement since I don't have that issue with my big Speer pulley. One of these days I'll stick a volt meter on the MAF and see how high the voltage actually gets.
 

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1999 Slk 230 r170 turbo
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658 Posts
馃ぃindeed back on topic, I think the main thing with the set ups like the Speer pulley is fuel, but it's so long ago since I used the overdrive method stuff gets a bit blurred. The problem when I did it to my car is I did it all in one go M5 MAF 4 bar fpr and the crank pulley, I can't remember if Ben (did it to his car first) did the MAF first or the FPR so I'm not 100% on which one will solve it. I'm left drawing more on the experience with the turbo Slk which obviously is a totally different beast all together.
 

* Premium Member '02 R170 SLK V8 5.0&'00 V6 SLK320
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Digression rather than OT methinks ;)

After all, the photo's and discussions are just examples of what happens at the top end when you don't get a boosted Engine dialled in right ;)
 
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* Registered
1999 SLK230 5MT
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18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Status update for anyone following along;

Turns out I do have some sort of MAF relocation kit, which is a start if nothing else. FPR appears original. I threw brand new plugs in it last weekend prior to Lime Rock, and the car did fine (I just shifted at 4900 and the car never boost cut all day; it is, quite literally, locked in at 5k rpm in third for the cut). I will still be switching to the colder plugs tomorrow, as well as the stock airbox since my parts should be in.

Plan is as follows; clean the MAF tomorrow, it's a Bosch unit with no OEM stamps and looks fairly new, so I believe it was done with the pulley and relocation. Install colder plugs. Install 4bar FPR. See how she likes it.

No stranger to tuned cars; amongst some big turbo stuff and even a big supercharger Saturn (lol) in the past, my W203 had basically every engine upgrade an M272 can have, and dyno'ed at 190 wheel while checking the tune (not bad when the boat anchor 2.5 is rated at 201 crank stock) at EFI Logics here in CT. I truly do not believe this is a detonation issue of any sort, it feels very much like something is going wrong electionically and the car is entering a safe mode. Especially given the consistency with where the car cuts power. I entirely trust that tunes are available for these, was just suggesting that I believe the PO did not tune this car.

Worth noting that on my first outing at Lime Rock, I ran a 1:17 in this car short shifting to avoid the cut and on the PO's blown K-Sports. The little nugget moves out, and really impressed me. Bit of a cheat code running 245-square RE71Rs though.
 

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1999 SLK230 5MT
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Discussion Starter · #29 · (Edited)
So this is interesting.

I reached out to PO, who is a kind individual, asking if he could give any info as to fueling or an ECU tune. As many have mentioned on here, Kleeman specifically noted that factory tune and fueling is adequate, so none are currently done on this car. He even sent over screenshots of his conversation with Kleeman about what was very clearly the same problem in 2019. Kleeman suggested elevated air discharge temps would cause the blower to decouple, which had me optimistic that my airbox fix for tomorrow would resolve the issue.

As this was occuring I was just taking care of the cam magnet which was in an absolutely decrepit state, and came across this. I haven't had a forced-induction car in a while, but I know some air reference lines when I see them. The lines were brittle, and I only noticed someone prior had electrical-taped a split problem area when I myself accidentally cracked the hose further along.

599329


Parts stores are closed and I'm out of vacuum line, so desperate times call for desperate measures; embarassed to admit that I took some heatshrink butt connectors and mated the plastic tube back up again. Should do until I can buy some hose tomorrow.


599330


Look at the weepage from that magnet. I bought this car and felt so bad for it, but at least bringing it back from near-death will give me something to do.

Took the car out for a test drive and did a roll-on in third gear, and it pulled hard to redline...turned around and did a full 2-through-3 run and same deal. Car pulled excellent.

I changed too many variables at once here, as while I patched up the split hose the weather had also changed drastically (was 75deg Fahrenheit and pouring at the time of the test, versus 80s/90s and dry in other occurrences with boost cut prior).

I'll give it another go tomorrow with more consistent weather, but regardless, the resolution seems to be one of two things; the custom intake setup just sucks too much hot air, or the boost reference was thrown for a loop at high RPM when the electrical tape started to bleed pressure at high load.

Not going to call this solved yet as I'm uncertain, but progress has been had. Still going to do a 4bar, as despite Kleemann's statements of the stock fueling /ECU being adequate, I'm skeptical. Wideband down the road too, but will simply do that when I inevitably do headers (have to pass inspection first).

@Alex.M-oneeleven sorry to bother one last time, but curious if you think the 4bar FPR will just make the car pig rich and a mess or if the window of function extends to nearly stock (having only a crank pulley oversized suggests it isn't up a ton to me). I'd rather have it take too much fuel than too little, but obviously still has potential for issues...

Sure wish I had measurements on the Kleemann crank pulley but alas, no info on their site.
 

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1999 Slk 230 r170 turbo
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Not bothering me don't worry about that 馃檪 happy to help when I can, so you already have a good knowledge of what you are doing then that make life a lot easier 馃槈. So the 4 bar reg ups the fuel when it's needed but it in our experience allowed the stock ECU to still trim the fuel as required, just puts a little less duty on the injectors.

Also plugs I knew I forgot to mention something I apologize we use Bosch FR5DC plugs in our cars, if I remember right they're two steps cooler than stock. We run them with more boost and more timing we also ran them with the crank pulley they worked great. Although I think the kleeman kit overspins the charger less than the Speer kit? I've never in all honesty looked at the kleeman kit.

MAF relocation: this is something commonly done an works great, unless it if fitted with too close to the throttle body. When fitted to close to the throttle body the turbulence from the throttle blade causes interference with the MAF especially when part throttle or coming off throttle, we mount ours about 8-10 inches away from the throttle body roughly. This is a good mod that has good results certainly makes the car more lively but it needs to be done right.

But if you are on standard plugs it is quite possible not is just breaking up on the top end that and the MAF are equally likely. But a AFR gauge would really help you see what is going on also go back to basics have a look at what the condition of your spark plugs is telling you, simple yet effective way of getting an idea of what's going on.

Am I right in thinking that split line is part of the emissions system you stuck with on them? We were lucky here we didn't get all that till 2001 馃ぃ.

Another good idea is to get a basic vacuum boost gauge that you can plumb in just to see what boost pressure you are reaching.

Anywho hope that's some use to you, any other questions feel free to ask away 馃檪
 

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1999 SLK230 5MT
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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
@Alex.M-oneeleven that's a pressure reference leading to the map sensor. My trashy fix actually did hold today, but I came home and plumbed some new lines.

Apologies to anyone reading this in the future, as yet again I manipulated too many variables at once. Despite the above sketchy fix, I did a pull on the highway today and the car cut again. Can't tell if it cut out higher at around 5400 or if I merely had been noticing it cutting incorrectly previously. Either way, no supercharger following that pull. It was about 90 degrees F today.

Got home and did it all. Stock airbox back on, BKR7Es in, re-plumbing the damaged vacuum line and blasting out the MAF. Did everything I planned to save for the 4bar FPR as my stupid snap ring pliers got delayed in shipping.

I went out and did a couple runs and zero issue. Pulled hard no matter how hard I was kicking on it and never cut. Notably, the temperature had sunk to a lovely 65 degrees. This is not an accurate representation of the conditions this car was having issues in.

Coolant temp was around 80 when doing tonight's tests. Typically, it gets as high as 90-95. My fan does not turn on at all currently, though I saw that as a minor issue as my commute is mostly traffic-less, on the highway, and I just did a full coolant flush along with the water pump and T-stat. Seems like the right course of action here is to add that FPR and then focus on my cooling, because while the variables keep changing here the car consistently runs well when the weather is cooler.

Worth noting as well is that my week-old plugs did indeed show signs of a lean condition with some white buildup around the strap. Eager to do that FPR tomorrow.
 

Registered 2002 SLK32 AMG
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Hi all,
I purchased my 99 M111 car a couple of weeks ago and after doing a massive maintenance overhaul, am getting acquainted with it.

The car has a Kleemann boost kit, and the previous owner has a very DIY cold air setup on it. I've got the parts on order to revert back to stock airbox, but wanted to present an interesting issue this car is having.

When I go full throttle, the car will pull very hard to redline (5mt). If I shift and continue WOT in the following gear, at almost exactly 5k rpm the car hits what feels like a boost cut. Power stops like hitting a wall and the supercharger audibly shuts off, not returning until the car is restarted. If I shift at 4900 even, there is no cutoff.

I'm definitely going to start with that airbox, but I figure my next step is either the MAF or the bypass. Just wanted to see if anyone has had this experience prior to tossing parts at it.

Thanks!
I question whether the M\AF would limit revs to precisely 5000 consistently. Try finding a road with a steep down grade, then try exceeding 5000 rpm with full throttle and gravity assist. In this condition the MAF sensor will be measuring much less air flow. I think it's worth a try.

How about sitting in your driveway in neutral. Will it go past 5k? Probably not. I think there is a 4k rev limiter active in park and neutral. The rpm it cuts out at may be a big clue. Can you activate the starter while it is in gear?

Great phone apps are Torque for Android and Dynolicious for Apple. Purchase the ELM327 dongle and plug it into the OBD-II port. You will be able to monitor, and even graph, a lot of operating parameters in real time. i.e. is the engine cutting off at a consistent air flow measurement that directly correlates to rpm?

Have your car checked with a professional level scanner. I can change max speed and rpm on my W204 with my scanner. You need a 2 way scanner, one that not only reads but can write to the ECU, too.

Good luck
wil
 

* Premium Member
1999 Slk 230 r170 turbo
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658 Posts
]
Sweet so some positive news then, if it was going lean enough to leave deposits on it then the car may have indeed been cutting the spark as the ECU recognised the lean condition. It does that by either sensing DET or the O2 sensor and just like the MAF if it does go too lean it will shut things down, but when we have had experienced it the first thing was a brutal spark cut then no SC. But defo get the FPR soon so you don't suffer the piston melting trauma we did 馃ぃ.

Checking the plugs from the CLK230K after 1000+ miles

That's how my plugs look after just over 1k BKR7s are in the same ball park as FR5DCS If I remember right as every spark plug manufacturer seems to have their own heat range system, run with .8mm gap for now but you may be able to tighten it down to .7mm if you still get a bit of break up. But .7mm is more for 1+bar of boost ide say, but i suspect you already know that if this isn't the first car you've tuned 馃槈. I'm sure I've missed something but I'm half asleep 馃ぃ

Edit: I'm running hight boost but controlled by the Bypass valve we basically adjusted the ECU parameters to give me more boost more of the time, hence why I use cooler plugs but the stock injectors provide only just enough fuel @3bar for the stock set up hence mine looks very slightly lean. Mercedes wanted to make the car as economical as they could so they did run these engines a little on the lean side in stock form. The biggest issue is how high the charge temps can get with a overdrive pulley and non ported M62, it's a situation where you add more boost but due to the AITs causing DET the ECU pulls timing. This is why I'm looking at the most rediculous experiment ever on one of these cars which is.


I'm basically going to chill the intake as much as possible to see how much more timing I can get.
 

* Premium Member
1999 Slk 230 r170 turbo
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658 Posts
Sweet so some positive news then, if it was going lean enough to leave deposits on it then the car may have indeed been cutting the spark as the ECU recognised the lean condition. It does that by either sensing DET or the O2 sensor and just like the MAF if it does go too lean it will shut things down, but when we have had experienced it the first thing was a brutal spark cut then no SC. But defo get the FPR soon so you don't suffer the piston melting trauma we did 馃ぃ.


I'm basically going to chill the intake as much as possible to see how much more timing I can get. To see if I get better results from cooler boost over more boost.
 

* Premium Member '02 R170 SLK V8 5.0&'00 V6 SLK320
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5,752 Posts
Great phone apps are Torque for Android and Dynolicious for Apple. Purchase the ELM327 dongle and plug it into the OBD-II port. You will be able to monitor, and even graph, a lot of operating parameters in real time. i.e. is the engine cutting off at a consistent air flow measurement that directly correlates to rpm?

Have your car checked with a professional level scanner. I can change max speed and rpm on my W204 with my scanner. You need a 2 way scanner, one that not only reads but can write to the ECU, too.
Before going out and wasting money on the latest greatest Chinesium Appdonglereaderprogrammermabob ..........
There isn't one that can do anything like that on primitive R170 Electronics, sure plenty that work on later Cars like the W204, but the only thing that sees and does all on R170 is SDS with Developer Mode, or off Car Hex level programmers ;)

Also a word of caution ............. A customer just bought his son a Diesel Volvo C30, around 拢4000 IIRC, tidy looking car, go over 70 - 80mph and dash lights up like a Xmas tree ................

Someone has either remapped it or done a DPF delete, the Car, (2007 model year) is now a write off, because the eejit that did it didn't know what he was doing, the Motor ECU is now corrupted, the checksums don't match .................

As we don't know who did it we can't get the original ECU file, the only answer would be a brand new ECU supplied, fitted and programmed by Volvo Dealership on their Vida Dice, but even my local and friendly Dealership won't touch it with someone elses "barge-pole" !! Also, (I haven't looked) but if this was the common DPF Delete, the DPF would need replacing too, Car not worth that kinda money :(
Can't take a file from an identical car, Immo data is different, therefore so is checksums !!
 

* Premium Member
1999 Slk 230 r170 turbo
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658 Posts
Ouchh that's like my old Punto previous owner had one of them good old off the shelf maps from a "reputable" company, yeah that off the shelf map kept on killing Mgt12 turbos on it nice and pricey each time (it's the size of a smart cars gt12 on a 1400 not a 0.7) got to hand it to fiat on that. But moral is unless done properly on a Dyno any remap can be dangerous. I don't know how my Clk hasn't blown up yet, this is the reason we do not offer it out I have spare engines most other people don't 馃ぃ. Anyway once the Kompressor testing sage is done M104 incoming on the Clk 馃槈.
 

* Registered
1999 SLK230 5MT
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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
I question whether the M\AF would limit revs to precisely 5000 consistently. Try finding a road with a steep down grade, then try exceeding 5000 rpm with full throttle and gravity assist. In this condition the MAF sensor will be measuring much less air flow. I think it's worth a try.

How about sitting in your driveway in neutral. Will it go past 5k? Probably not. I think there is a 4k rev limiter active in park and neutral. The rpm it cuts out at may be a big clue. Can you activate the starter while it is in gear?

Great phone apps are Torque for Android and Dynolicious for Apple. Purchase the ELM327 dongle and plug it into the OBD-II port. You will be able to monitor, and even graph, a lot of operating parameters in real time. i.e. is the engine cutting off at a consistent air flow measurement that directly correlates to rpm?

Have your car checked with a professional level scanner. I can change max speed and rpm on my W204 with my scanner. You need a 2 way scanner, one that not only reads but can write to the ECU, too.

Good luck
wil
It is specifically in third gear at those revs that the car was cutting, which leads me to believe it's not only maf related but also boost pressure related; obviously there's a lot of load up there in third, and I would wager it would happen in fourth as well based on this (not interested in doing those speeds on public roads though). I have been able to get it to cut out going downhill from a highway roll even, which was relatively low-strain.

I have torque, but I'm currently having an issue getting the OBD port to communicate with my phone dongle or even my MX808 scanner. I've read on these forums that I should give the fuses a once-over, but have been planning to tackle the mechanicals first before heading into those electronics as well as why my cooling fan is inop
 
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