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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone!

Recently bought a 1998 slk 230 and am so happy with it. I have been repairing it to bring it back to life but am running into a few minor blocks.

The front end was in an accident causing ridiculous alignment.
After replacing the drivers lower control arm, spindle, ball joints and this week the upper control arm we will back in business. I got it with a misfire but I was lucky enough to guess it was a coil pack. after replacing the car was drivable and I have been ripping it the last 6 months.

Unfortunately, I somehow managed to stall the vehicle out (automatic transmission) i think by tapping the gas very quickly and letting go, so the vehicle died, i had enough momentum in traffic to pull over. Luckily she turned back on so I was able to get home and park safely.

That scared me and I havent driven since.
I have ordered new coils and wires for the other 3 cylinders hoping that will fix the issue.


Also, more importantly I am having an issue with the blower fan. Initially when I got the the previous owner rigged a wire directly to the battery to keep the radiator fan on. I found out the switch (little silver box on the driver side on wheel well under hood) was faulty and replaced it and the blower fan motor resulting in working ac/blower fan. This worked for a few months then began to cut in and out. Finally no longer cutting in it is just off. There is warm air coming through the vents when moving, however there is not fan blower when I turn the fan on. I do notice when I have the AC on and turn on the air fan switch (despite no air coming) the RPMs increase as if the AC was engaged and properly functioning.
I think this is what is causing my minor heating. the car will heat up at a stop in traffic, but is fine at any speed (i commute a hour each way for school). It gets to the 3/4 mark sometimes in bad traffic if sitting for a 3-5 minutes. If it gets any hotter I pull over and wait.

I am at a bit of a tough spot now as my backup vehicle is starting to misfire (head suspected)
if anyone has any guidance that would be incredible :D


other details, I am ordering a new body kit and repainting next week. And I plan to redo the interior, not sure about the direction I want to take it yet.

Im excited!!!
 

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Super Moderator UK SLK 55 AMG 2007
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I think you have two seperate issues. Can't say for sure but I suspect you have a bad k40 relay which is why the po hooked up a wire to the cooling fan. Do a search here on k40.

As for the blower fan, your post is a little confusing. Are you saying there was also a switch wired up for the blower fan or was that the cooling (radiator) fan?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Heating up 😞

I think you have two seperate issues. Can't say for sure but I suspect you have a bad k40 relay which is why the po hooked up a wire to the cooling fan. Do a search here on k40.

As for the blower fan, your post is a little confusing. Are you saying there was also a switch wired up for the blower fan or was that the cooling (radiator) fan?

I have inspected the K40 and it looked clean.

As for the blower fan, no the switch wired up by the previous owner was to allow the AC to work from what I remember. He said if I was going to drive the car a long time or use AC make sure the wire was on.

I bought a new little silver box that allowed me to remove the direct lead to the battery, and everything worked. But after a few months the fan blower stopped working for air in the car. I had replaced the blower motor under the passenger dash when I replaced the little box. So I doubt it is the fan motor. Are there any other components under the passenger dash I should check?
 

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Super Moderator CA 2012 SLK55 AMG w/P30
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I have inspected the K40 and it looked clean.
It has been said that visual inspection may not turn up those bad solder joints. There are several that should be cleaned up and resoldered regardless of what your eye tells you.

Just sayin' :wink:
 
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