Started when I was at a light and when it turned green hit the gas and it bogged down...like it was stuck already in a high gear and no matter how far I depressed the gas pedal is wasnt going any faster. Luckily there was another light close. Stopped put it into park and then back into drive...light turns green and now when I hit the girl revs super high like its stuck in 1st and wont shift up. I just replaced the battery so its fresh and new. No prob/trouble codes were triggered that I could hook up my OBDii device and see whats up. Any other thoughts less tragic that can be checked before I get really worried.
Had an issue - auto wouldnt shift down or up
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Sounds like the conductor plate which is a common issue on early model automatic cars.
Lots of information on this forum in regards to it and the cost of repairing. Not at liberty to say much more than that since I have a manual so I never pay much attention to the details aside from the symptoms.
Lots of information on this forum in regards to it and the cost of repairing. Not at liberty to say much more than that since I have a manual so I never pay much attention to the details aside from the symptoms.
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Initially it sounds like the transmission didn't shift down to a lower gear at the light. Now you stop again and put it in drive, and it won't shift out of the lower gear evidenced by the engine RPMs increasing but not gaining any forward momentum.
You have a transmission problems which can only be repaired by the dealer; unless, you have a knowledgeable independent. I would advise you not to drive it, because it may lead to more damage. You might read up on the conductor plate? In the meanwhile, I'd locate a transmission repair shop.
You have a transmission problems which can only be repaired by the dealer; unless, you have a knowledgeable independent. I would advise you not to drive it, because it may lead to more damage. You might read up on the conductor plate? In the meanwhile, I'd locate a transmission repair shop.
I have an appt with MB service this Thursday. I talked with the tech for a good 20 mins on the phone and he said it could very well be the conductor plate but unless they can recreate the issue or a trouble/error code was triggered and caught in your ECU it will be tough to prove. Anyone have a trick to get this issue properly classified by a tech at the dealer? Its not something they can visually see so it could be a wasted day at the dealer. He did mention based on my description and what I got from this forum it more than likely is the issue...just need to figure out how to prove it so I can get it repaired while I still have my aftermarket warranty for the next 5 weeks before it expires.
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There should be a code from the transmission (not readable through OBD-II and also no Check-Engine Light, but MB techs will know what to do). The "good news" is that if it *is* the conductor plate speed sensor (which it sure sounds like), the problem will get worse over time. You'll eventually be able to make it happen on demand, just by stomping on the gas.
I had the same problem several months ago. I managed to limp to a very knowledgeable independent mech. He found that the "transmission electrical control unit" had "failed internally" and replaced it. The part was about $325 and a fluid change was included. The car was about 7 years old with only 25,000 miles. The total bill was about $1100. He said there were two "computer related" bits in the transmission, and the one I had replaced was the less expensive.
Another interesting aspect. It took an extra day and I had to present my sales documentation to authenticate my ownership. Apparently the part is one of several in the car that are matched to the car/owner and MB won't sell the part to an independent without authentication. Who knew?
Another interesting aspect. It took an extra day and I had to present my sales documentation to authenticate my ownership. Apparently the part is one of several in the car that are matched to the car/owner and MB won't sell the part to an independent without authentication. Who knew?
What does the independent have to do to get authenticated? Does that mean only the owner can buy the part? Sounds like baloney to me.>
Speaking from second-hand knowledge, it's mostly true - in the 171, to replace many parts (including the conductor plate) you need to be online with MB, and to do that, you have to have an id/password to the MB systems.
There are a few ways around this: 1) copying the firmware from the old part to the new, 2) re-using the digital bits from the old part in the new part, 3) using the "reverse engineering services" you can find online, 4) using a "remote STAR service" where the remote is online with MB.
There are a few ways around this: 1) copying the firmware from the old part to the new, 2) re-using the digital bits from the old part in the new part, 3) using the "reverse engineering services" you can find online, 4) using a "remote STAR service" where the remote is online with MB.
Well its at the dealer and one guy said more than likely due to dirty transmission fluid which needs to be changed at least times if its an 07. Also seals etc but wasn't biting that it's the conductor plate since he has never heard of that issue before? That makes me nervous...Anyway hoping its something that's covered under my extended warranty that ends next month, but as typical luck has for me it never is. Wish they would just take my word something is wrong and replace the item, they get paid either way. I mentioned no codes or errors shown but I told them I heard they have a way to read transmission issues that cannot be read through the OBDII port and again they didn't know what I was talking about. Guy said only the ODBII codes can lead them to transmission issues. Hopefully the tech that actually checks out my car is smarter than the service advisors.
LOL. Well it was just the service advisor so hoping he is just dumb. The service technician I talked to at this dealer on Monday knew all about this issue and agreed that probably was the conductor plate, but then again unless they can tell something when they test drive it or some sort of error code then they cant do anything. Guess we will see
mmm. I am a bit nervous with this! For a dealer to say he has never heard of these issues, but blame it on the fluid is a bit suspect. Until the situation gets really bad, codes are not necessarily thrown up. Tell the dealer next time to read the reams on the subject on the internet!
Re the warranty - make sure the problem, and any subsequent conversation, is well documented so that when the dealer (or maybe a new one..?) wil not be able to wriggle out of any agreement.
Re the warranty - make sure the problem, and any subsequent conversation, is well documented so that when the dealer (or maybe a new one..?) wil not be able to wriggle out of any agreement.
Well got a call from the dealer last night and it is indeed the conductor plate, so they are replacing that. One question I heard the conductor plate inside the transmission box is that correct? So I should be getting a full auto transmission flush in the deal too correct?
Not necessarily - only the pan and filter have to be removed to access the CP - 50% of the fluid. A proper flush will replace 98-99%.
You should ask, at the minimum, for a new filter and new fluid to replace what was in the pan. No extra labor for that.
You should ask, at the minimum, for a new filter and new fluid to replace what was in the pan. No extra labor for that.
They had to take the pan off to get to the CP, so they are forced to replace the amount of fluid lost. I would guess they'd replace the filter too. Check your receipt.
The WIS says the torque converter fluid is drained only iff there is a drain plug. The amount lost there is added to the fill of the transmission. Flushing anything except your toilet is a bad idea.:laugh:
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