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Discussion Starter #1
I just bought a 1998 SLK230 a week ago for $1000.
It looks like fun, and I've always been interested in hardtop convertibles.

It is in limp mode, I am suspecting the conductor plate / pilot bushing or the K40 relay, but I am holding off until I can do some actual diagnostic work.

I have ordered carsoft v12 and a multiplexer so I can use the 38 pin access.
Hopefully with that and some technical and schematic info I can diagnose the actual issues.

The top is basically sound.
It does not leak, and the pump works.
One of the trunk rams leaks, and the top is having some issues that I am hoping to diagnose as well.

No rust, no damage, high miles.

What are some maintenance concerns with these cars?
Assume 170k miles and a'deferred' maintenance history. LOL

Attached are the pics of the car from the ad.

When I get better ones, Ill post.

I own a lot of cars... and I do all of the work on all of them.

1958 Austin Healey 100/6
2001 BMW Z3 2.5i
1946 Jeep CJ2a
2007 Chevrolet Silverado 5.3L
2012 Honda Odyssey
1999 Honda Odyssey
1985 Chevrolet Corvette (2019 GRM Challenege Car)
1992 U42T Mitsubishi Kei Truck
1998 SLK230

Kevin
 

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Super Moderator CA 2012 SLK55 AMG w/P30
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Administrator 2009 SLK 55 AMG/Founding Member 2006
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96,460 Posts

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Premium Member 2018 SLC43
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2,606 Posts
Welcome from just West of London, England - Well done on spending some time & money to restore Your SLK :tu;
 

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Premium Member 2009 SLK55 AMG
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Welcome from the Sacramento Valley SLK Enthusiasts!
 

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Super Moderator UK SLK 55 AMG 2007
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27,287 Posts
Welcome from Wirral, England.


We have a free to enter monthly competition.
Entry is normally open from the 1st to the 15th of every month. You simply post a reply with 3 photos.
After the 15th we usually open a poll for members to vote on their favourite.
Here's the main thread:
https://www.slkworld.com/rotm-submissions-voting/
New members are welcome to enter (and they win too!).




Really useful links (thanks to ixions cataloguing)
https://www.slkworld.com/general-discussion/354330-links-toparts-assemblies-technical-data-locations-parts-slks.html
https://slk-links.neocities.org/ Includes diy videos.
Spare parts: https://slk-links.neocities.org/EPCLINKS.HTM

A brief guide to the forum and how to get the best from it:
https://www.slkworld.com/new-members-introduce-yourself-here/439993-new-wondering-what-do.html

There's a link to R170/171/172's do it yourself threads under the pic below.

Some useful tips in this section for new and prospective owners.
Worth knowing are reset adaptive learning, check list, Spring is here and what is the SmartTop.
https://www.slkworld.com/general-discussion/
https://slk-links.neocities.org/BUYING.html

You can find your region by scrolling down the page on this link
https://www.slkworld.com/forumindex.php#club-regional-discussion-forum

Trunk strut is quick, easy and cheap (even oem). DIY in 170 section.
Kompressor oil worth changing.
Ditto tranny.

If pse and K40 ok, happy days (refolow solder if you get issues).
MAF can get dirty.
Other than that issues are sam as with any 20 year old car.
Use the new/used guide to look for any lurking faults.
https://www.slkworld.com/general-discussion/68666-new-used-vehicle-pickup-checklist-buying-171-what-look-guide.html

And service seals and drain holes:
https://www.slkworld.com/general-discussion/20937-spring-here~gummi-pflege-lube-your-seals-lithium-grease-your-joints-hinges.html
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Welcome from Wirral, England.


We have a free to enter monthly competition.
Entry is normally open from the 1st to the 15th of every month. You simply post a reply with 3 photos.
After the 15th we usually open a poll for members to vote on their favourite.
Here's the main thread:
https://www.slkworld.com/rotm-submissions-voting/
New members are welcome to enter (and they win too!).




Really useful links (thanks to ixions cataloguing)
https://www.slkworld.com/general-discussion/354330-links-toparts-assemblies-technical-data-locations-parts-slks.html
https://slk-links.neocities.org/ Includes diy videos.
Spare parts: https://slk-links.neocities.org/EPCLINKS.HTM

A brief guide to the forum and how to get the best from it:
https://www.slkworld.com/new-members-introduce-yourself-here/439993-new-wondering-what-do.html

There's a link to R170/171/172's do it yourself threads under the pic below.

Some useful tips in this section for new and prospective owners.
Worth knowing are reset adaptive learning, check list, Spring is here and what is the SmartTop.
https://www.slkworld.com/general-discussion/
https://slk-links.neocities.org/BUYING.html

You can find your region by scrolling down the page on this link
https://www.slkworld.com/forumindex.php#club-regional-discussion-forum

Trunk strut is quick, easy and cheap (even oem). DIY in 170 section.
Kompressor oil worth changing.
Ditto tranny.

If pse and K40 ok, happy days (refolow solder if you get issues).
MAF can get dirty.
Other than that issues are sam as with any 20 year old car.
Use the new/used guide to look for any lurking faults.
https://www.slkworld.com/general-discussion/68666-new-used-vehicle-pickup-checklist-buying-171-what-look-guide.html

And service seals and drain holes:
https://www.slkworld.com/general-discussion/20937-spring-here~gummi-pflege-lube-your-seals-lithium-grease-your-joints-hinges.html
Thanks Avel Du for the service links.

This will be a great way to spend an evening... :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Sooo.... I got tired of waiting for my carsoft v12 multiplexer to arrive from Belgum, so I decided to poke at the MB with sticks. Or at least that's what I feels like to me when you can't access the REAL data stream.

CARSOFT Mercedes V12 System

The problems that were presenting were:

No top operation.

No Horn

Signal Bulb Indicator On

Transmission in limp mode (2nd gear only).

ABS/ASR lights on

Brake wear sensor lit.

Codes P1747 No CAN BUS Data to Transmission

P0500 Speed Sensor A Error



So I jacked up the car and pulled the wheels for the first time, and found that there was a new wheel speed sensor on the front left. MMMMMkay

I also found that the RF brake wear sensor wire was broken.

I fixed that with two waterproof butt splices. $0.20 lol.

I have spent a lot of time reading on SLK and MB forums about issues that are common on these cars.

This led me to pull the k40 relay box. This is a relay board that essentially does the job of 5 relays and fuses. Nothing complicated, but it is annoying to have 5x the chance of failure.... anyway.

When I turned the car "on" only one relay closed. Interesting.

However, on the dash, the brake wear indicator was now out.

Good news.



I checked for 12v signals at the relay coils and 3 were actually being commanded on.

I knew the horn did not work. I actuated the relay for the horn. BEEP!

Good News.



I checked and one of the non responsive relays was for the TCU circuit.

I closed it manually and immediately the engine ran better.

Good News.



I held it shut with some cardboard and cycled the engine off and back on.

The brake warning light went out and via the generic OBDII scan tool I read that the two codes were now clear.

Since it was up on stands, I put it in drive. It shifted 5 times.

GREAT news.



Next I tried the convertible hardtop, and whhhrrriiirr click click buzz whhrrrhhrr clunk, it disappeared into the trunk.

Outstanding news.



That's a lot of stuff off of the list.

For the final fix I will either repair, modify, or replace the k40 Relay Module.

To reconcile the PO's experience.... they were being told that there was a wiring problem "between the sensor and the computer". That was wrong, and it is what happens when you use generic OBDII codes on an older German car. ( I also have a z3). LOTS of stuff gets lost in the translation. The REAL tools use OEM proprietary connections under the hood to access ALL of the modules.

So a lot of time and $$ in parts I suspect had been tossed at the big issue (limp mode) until the owners just gave up. In the end it was just a bad relay that wasn't turning the TCU on. If the TCU wasn't on, it could not talk on the CAN bus (P1747) and report a speed (P0500).

On top of all of that, the first step in the roof module logic is to make sure the car is not moving, and with no speed reported, it would just shut down and not open the roof.

The ABS/ASR lights are still on but I think that there is a good chance that they may only need to be reset with the proper CARSOFT interface now that the transmission reports a speed.
 
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