I have read every thread on this prior to just completing my own repair. People make braces, hold the box in a vice, use gorilla glue, remove the wire harness....I did NONE of that.
I am an Industrial designer by degree. I figured (correctly) that the glove box door came off of the box. It was so simple that I was shocked that I hadn't seen anyone attempt this.
First, I removed the six T15 screws that hold the panel and top of box to dash. I lowered the panel and swung it to remove the two T20s. So far, about five minutes. I did NOT unhook a single connector from the box. The door is held to the box with two silver hinge pins. Each has a rim at the edge. I slipped a hemostat (a pair of needle nose would work) under the rim of each pin and pulled out the pin which is between 40 and 50mm in length. Two more minutes have passed. The final pin is a connector to the outside hinge to the toggle for the light switch. This is black plastic. All hardware now sits in the passenger footwell, along with the panel and rest of the box. Door can now be manipulated through the catch slot on either side, and repair may commence.
Now, Gorilla Glue (made fifteen minutes south of my residence) is a wonderful product, but I don't like the foaming and bubbles it creates when activated with water. That is suitable for wood or outdoor repairs, but I didn't feel like having to spend extra time cleaning or cutting off excess glue. Instead, I used E6000. It has tenacious hold like Gorilla Glue, but can be applied slightly back from the edge of every surface, so that when the item is clamped, it will not ooze.
I used a combination of clamps and clamping bars (wood) to hold it for the 24 hour curing time. Just waiting to be able to reinstall over the ten minutes required. I will add a photo of the finished project.
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I am an Industrial designer by degree. I figured (correctly) that the glove box door came off of the box. It was so simple that I was shocked that I hadn't seen anyone attempt this.
First, I removed the six T15 screws that hold the panel and top of box to dash. I lowered the panel and swung it to remove the two T20s. So far, about five minutes. I did NOT unhook a single connector from the box. The door is held to the box with two silver hinge pins. Each has a rim at the edge. I slipped a hemostat (a pair of needle nose would work) under the rim of each pin and pulled out the pin which is between 40 and 50mm in length. Two more minutes have passed. The final pin is a connector to the outside hinge to the toggle for the light switch. This is black plastic. All hardware now sits in the passenger footwell, along with the panel and rest of the box. Door can now be manipulated through the catch slot on either side, and repair may commence.
Now, Gorilla Glue (made fifteen minutes south of my residence) is a wonderful product, but I don't like the foaming and bubbles it creates when activated with water. That is suitable for wood or outdoor repairs, but I didn't feel like having to spend extra time cleaning or cutting off excess glue. Instead, I used E6000. It has tenacious hold like Gorilla Glue, but can be applied slightly back from the edge of every surface, so that when the item is clamped, it will not ooze.
I used a combination of clamps and clamping bars (wood) to hold it for the 24 hour curing time. Just waiting to be able to reinstall over the ten minutes required. I will add a photo of the finished project.
