Mercedes SLK World banner

41 - 51 of 51 Posts

·
Registered 2002 R170 SLK V8 5.0
Joined
·
2,593 Posts
Wow o_O

The same parts for my S Class were under £20.00 per side and they are a lot bigger and more involved than the R170 items :rolleyes:
 

·
Registered 2000 SLK320
Joined
·
394 Posts
Discussion Starter #42
The parts were £35.10p each and £14.04p total vat. Got to love the tax man, well that's what we get for buying Mercedes Benz I suppose. The little rubber weather strips between wing and sideskirt are next, they are £38 each and theres 4 of them lol. Expensive hobby.
 

·
Registered 2000 SLK320
Joined
·
394 Posts
Discussion Starter #43
Well I have now made new brackets for the inner wing for both sides, made 2 wing lips, cut off one from the wing and welded the new lip to the wing, cut out a small patch of rust and welded new metal into it, skim filled, sanded and primed the panel with white primer and flatted with 600 grit wet and dry, looks lovely in my opinion, all test fitted aswell. Now need to paint, eek, never painted a body panel, let alone with an aerosol can, I'm used to a brush/roller and a house wall lol. I have looked on google and seen that as its metallic I need the paint and a clear coat, my problem is that I found some conflicting ways of doing the job. Do I spray the colour on allowing short times before applying each coat then allow to dry fully, then sand flat with 2000 grit wet and dry paper and then apply the clear coat? Or do I spray the colour, allowing a short time between applying each coat and then spray the clear coat before the last application of colour dries fully? The later seems silly to me because if the last colour coat is abit orange peel looking I cant flatten it when the clear coat is on. So I'm guessing it's the first way I mentioned that allows the paint to harden fully then wet and dry it to a mirror smooth glass like finish then apply the clear coat. I have only completed one wing so far upto the point of spraying the colour, the other side wing still needs to be removed, it's taken me ages due to lockdown and sourcing tools like welder, grinding and cutting discs and sand paper etc and waiting for delivery plus kids being home and housework, but I'm determined to do the whole job myself and get a good finish that I can be proud of.
 

·
Premium Member 2001 SLK200K/2001 SLK320
Joined
·
1,787 Posts
You've been busy, photos or it didn't happen! :p :ROFLMAO:

The first method for me, paint application from a rattle can is fairly straightforward with the new nozzles that they're putting on them these days and you can get a decent finish .. the clearcoat application is something of an art in itself, too close and it runs, too much and it runs, too far away and it semi-dries whilst it's airborne causing orange peel, too little and it dries 'patchy' causing orange peel .. it can be a real PITA until you get the hang of it
 

·
Registered 2000 SLK320
Joined
·
394 Posts
Discussion Starter #45
Thanks, should I paint, then let it dry totally so i can sand any orange peel if it happens with 2000 grit wet and dry before I spray the clear coat? Or should I spray the clear coat before the last coat of paint dries fully? I've seen both ways on google but wasmt sure which is best/right way?

Photos are coming. (y)
 

·
Premium Member 2001 SLK200K/2001 SLK320
Joined
·
1,787 Posts
Nice work !

Personally, id flat it off and give it a wipe down with a tack rag to get rid of any foreign bodys and then lay the clearcoat.
Wet on dry.

The pros on the other hand lay the paint, lay the clearcoat and then set about it with the DA's . . gives a better finish to metallics apparently.
Wet on wet.

Both work but the clearcoat is the tricky part.
 

·
Registered 2000 SLK320
Joined
·
394 Posts
Discussion Starter #48
The weird hole for the wing was nightmare as the original drill bit ripped the metal apart as it caught while drilling, so I had to flatten it out and used a cutting disc then welded a new strip in place to fill the hole where it ripped away along the thinner edge of the hole. I sprayed it with underseal then primed over that, it looks abit untidy but the steel is 1.2mm thick and original metal is thinner, which was fun when welding the whole new lip to the original wing metal, but I got there in the end and it bolts together lovely, I had to drill a new hole in the bumper so now it bolts through the bumper and that bracket under the lip of the bumper in 2 places to remove or fit the wing. Bit fiddly with the new bolt fitment to do up but its manageable. Once it's all bolted in place I will spray with lots more underseal to coat all the parts to limit any more rusting as much as possible.
 

·
Registered 2000 SLK320
Joined
·
394 Posts
Discussion Starter #49
Nice work !

Personally, id flat it off and give it a wipe down with a tack rag to get rid of any foreign bodys and then lay the clearcoat.
Wet on dry.

The pros on the other hand lay the paint, lay the clearcoat and then set about it with the DA's . . gives a better finish to metallics apparently.
Wet on wet.

Both work but the clearcoat is the tricky part.
Thanks for the advice, I'll try the wet on dry approach and hopefully it will be a flat finish that way. I got a few runs with the primer, so waited till it dried and sanded with the 600 wet and dry and now its lovely and smooth, cant wait to get some colour on it.
 
41 - 51 of 51 Posts
Top