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Premium Member 2002 SLK230K
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Well i finally got around to changing the front oil seal. Here are a couple of pictures of the old/new seal. Overall the job was simple, the hardest part was removing the crank pulley and the belts.
 

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Well i finally got around to changing the front oil seal. Here are a couple of pictures of the old/new seal. Overall the job was simple, the hardest part was removing the crank pulley and the belts.
Livefreeordie,
Do you have the part number for this seal? And what are the symptoms indicating that it needs to be replaced?
 

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Premium Member 2002 SLK230K
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Discussion Starter #3
Sorry i do not have the part number. I figured it was the seal after cleaning the oil pan and making sure all the pan bolts were nice and snug. What i noticed was one very small stream of oil making its way down the front of the pan directly behind the crank pulley. At this point i was either the oil pan gasket or the chain case seal, i pulled the crank pulley and got lucky when i saw it was the seal.
 

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Sorry i do not have the part number. I figured it was the seal after cleaning the oil pan and making sure all the pan bolts were nice and snug. What i noticed was one very small stream of oil making its way down the front of the pan directly behind the crank pulley. At this point i was either the oil pan gasket or the chain case seal, i pulled the crank pulley and got lucky when i saw it was the seal.
Alright, I'll check mine when I get to change my oil =) Just want to know what to expect )
 

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Crankshaft seal

Hi
In what way do you "hold back" the crankshaft when unscrewing the bolt?
Is the treads left or wrigth?
Blarsson,SLK 2.3-2000 Mod.
 

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Administrator 2009 SLK 55 AMG/Founding Member 2006
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Blarsson,

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Premium Member 2002 SLK230K
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Discussion Starter #9
Hi
In what way do you "hold back" the crankshaft when unscrewing the bolt?
Is the treads left or wrigth?
Blarsson,SLK 2.3-2000 Mod.
Welcome from New Hampshire.

I used a pry bar to hold the crank pulley in place while turning the large nut counter clock wise. If you look at the pulley there are slots in the back, slide the bar through the slot and hold against the block. This will take a few tries before you find a good secure spot that will hold without breaking anything.
 

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Sorry i do not have the part number. I figured it was the seal after cleaning the oil pan and making sure all the pan bolts were nice and snug. What i noticed was one very small stream of oil making its way down the front of the pan directly behind the crank pulley. At this point i was either the oil pan gasket or the chain case seal, i pulled the crank pulley and got lucky when i saw it was the seal.
Could you tell me if you found oil spot on the floor when the car was turned off (after 1 day or so) ? I'm pretty sure I have the same problem.
Thanks
 

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2000 SLK 230 Crank seal replacement with details

In addition to the nice write up of this thread I would like to add some helpful hints and photos to make things even easier.
The bolt is 27 mm; it comes of best using an impact wrench (air or power - I have both but I started loving my battery powered better).
Extracting the balancer is very easy using an extraction tool as shown in my photo.
For the final torque adjustment, there are a couple of ways to go:
You could take the car in to your MB dealership and ask them to do the torque adjustment (they do that for free in less than two min. at our MB), you could do the pry bar against a spot on the engine method, or you could build yourself a tool to keep, out of a 2" steel pipe. I will not exclude the purchase of such tool :).
You will get to a dealership (or any shop) with the bolt tightened with the impact wrench with no problem.
Also the easiest way to "build" a tensioner tool is to place a ratcheting 8 mm wrench with the open end into a 21 mm socket, position it using a wine cork (cut) and securing with some duct tape. (Photo)
I will show photos of the engine with the old seal on only to show how dirt builds up. It is very important to clean the engine BEFORE removing the old seal!!! Please secure the opening and clean the engine carefully. I use GUNK - Original engine degreaser after that rinse with water, remove the old seal and go ahead installing the new seal. Please be very careful when installing the new seal since it is very tight (doing something wrong at this point will bring you back where you were before starting the job (will leak!!!). Use a rubber hammer and a piece of flat wood to bring the new seal to position. Clean the balancer before installing it.
I hope people will find my 2 c useful.
 

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Hi there!

I have the same problem and I'm thinking to take my car to the MB dealership.
I really would like to do it but I'm a bit scared of getting in something I can not handle. Do you know of any step by step tutorial?
Many thanks and best regards from Brussels.
Ciao

Cristiano G
 

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Premium Member 2002 SLK230K
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Discussion Starter #15
I don't know of any step by step instructions out there, I'm sure if someone knows of any they will most likely post it for you.
 
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