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On my way home I noticed that my 230K was a bit slow, so when I got home I used my obd2 scanner and it pulled P0410 Secondary air injection. My vacuum lines were still good no leaks. Long story short, I noticed that my air injection check valve was plugged up because I sprayed the inside with WD40 and it didn't drain down, also my electric switch-over valve had a very minor crack that was leaking air, I confirmed it with a mist of water.

I did some research online and found out that someone used a 27mm crowfoot wrench to remove the check valve. However, it didn't work for me because I found out that the crowfoot wrench I bought was too thick and it hits the pipe that hold the check valve in place. I put a little bit of WD40 on the sides of the old check valve to help loosen it and use a vice grip to remove it and bam! It was removed in less than a couple of minutes.

Here are some pictures:
Put a little weight on the Vicegrips and the check valve will loosen up quickly. Make sure to create wiggle room by disconnecting the plastic clip on the fire wall for the fuel line.





New vs Rusty:

Useless:


BTW, the shut-off valve, which is in this picture below was dirty but fully operational. It just needed a bit of scrubbing with a brush and carb cleaner.


End result is a faster, more responsive Roadster. Glad to have all that rust crap removed from my engine. I apologize in advance if I missed something as I am pressed for time.
 

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great info, can it be cleaned?

I too get occasional P0410 code. Before I attempt removal I wanted to ask IF I do not see the water damage and rust yours exhibits, can it simply be cleaned? If so, using what cleaner? Thanks.
 

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I used carb cleaner and WD-40. I believe the check valve blows one way, if it doesn't then it's time to replace it. To save time, I would spray a bit of carb cleaner with the check valve installed, if the solvent doesn't sink down to the steel tubes then it's plugged up and need replacement.
 
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