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Registered 2003 SLK320
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7 Posts
This weekend will give me an answer. Matching Ecu, immobilizer and key will be here and I’m nervous that it will work. Tcu wire fixed, all put back and entire dash is out awaiting immobilizer I should stop messing with it till it runs but I can’t. Fresh oil, filter, plugs, cleaned it up a lot. Polished headlights, new trunk struts...... it better run


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Best of luck! Please let us know if you were able to fix it. I'm currently looking for the same parts but for a 320 hopefully I'll find them soon.
 

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Premium Member 2002 R170 SLK V8 5.0
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4,165 Posts
Fresh oil,
LOL, you're supposed to warm them up first to get all the [email protected] mixed and then drain 'em out ..............

That said, I always change Oil + Filter then do it again 1000 miles later on any Vehicle that is new to me, gives 'em a good flush ;)

Also, in case anyone doesn't know, once warmed up then always remove the Filter on MB's just prior to actually draining, or if you don't you will dump 3/4 litre of dirty oil into the pan before you refill it with fresh oil ;)
Applies to many other Cars with same sort of Filter system, eg VAG :poop: etc

The Immo ("Theft Relevant") Parts set will work if you have a "Drive Authorisation" issue ......................
Certainly looks like you may do ;)

If you don't, you can always sell them for what you paid, although I would keep them for when the day comes .............
Not "if" but "when" at the age our Cars are now ;)

HTH :)
 

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Registered 1998 SLK230
Joined
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86 Posts
Discussion Starter #23
Agree on warm oil, but fresh is better than 4 yer old oil. I also did what I do on snowmobile and motorcycle new top ends by putting lubricant into the cylinders that have sat and not turned over for a long time for the first times the motor turns over.
 

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Registered 1998 SLK230
Joined
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86 Posts
Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
No joy in Mudville. Ecu,immobilizer and key chip all swapped out from a set removed from a car when they were reported working. Still same issue. No fuel pump sounds. No starter clicks, nada.

Also, I have an brand new after market k40. My reasoning was, worse case, if they don’t help and the car does get running because of some other issue, I can test the old ones again and if they work, sell them so it’s not a total loss

Also now my key is not communicating at all. Previously, the key did flash the lights when button was pushed.

I’ve done the sync, hit button twice, put into ignition and turn to second click. All dash lights still come on and roof Still works.

I noticed when holding the lock button to check for red light it does come on bright after about 2 seconds. The unlock button does nothing with the light when held.


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Premium Member 2002 R170 SLK V8 5.0
Joined
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4,165 Posts
Well I think SDS is needed, trouble is there are good and bad operators, you could potentially waste your money paying someone else, a "Quick Test" and a handful of fault codes isn't gonna cut the mustard on this one, from that the operator likely needs to go on and study Live Data, do some Actuations and follow the Guided Testing ;)

Something you can do is to study the Mitchells Wiring Diagrams (the correct ones for your car are now in the R170 DIY area), and then check that all the Power and Earths are present at the Modules.

Did you use the whole casing including the Immo Chip and the (separate) RF PCB from the "new" key , i.e just swap the metal blade into the "new" Key Fob ? The Immo Chip is not on the Keys PCB, it is fixed into the Casing of the Key, the PCB and Battery has nothing to do with Immo, that is soley for the C/L and ATA, the Circuit Board that came in the Key with the set you bought should already be synched to the DAS RF Module ;)

I find that a lot of times the RF PCB board in the Keys doesn't synch when using the procedure from owners manual, more often than not I have to use SDS.
The Immo Chip does however override the C/L & ATA so even if you broke the window, set off the Alarm climbed through it and inserted the correct Key it will then start ;)

You must now be getting to the point where parts darts has cost you more than the $500 to buy SDS, which is an asset and can be sold on to get that money back.
Owning an MB Car, SDS is as essential as Spanners Screwdrivers and Sockets, even when you are new to it it enables those of us with the knowledge to help you fix your car too ...............

See, it's like this, I don't know what your Car is actually doing Drive Auth wise, so I am running out of suggestions, 10 minutes on SDS would confirm that ;)

A study of what modules are communicating, (or more importantly which ones are NOT !!) would give us a clue if there is a +ve or Earth dropped out somewhere ;)

HTH :)
 

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Premium Member 2002 R170 SLK V8 5.0
Joined
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4,165 Posts
BTW, I just had a thought ...................

What year Car did the theft relevant parts set come from ?

Can you please post up clear photos of the labels on your old and "new" DAS / RF Modules .....................

If the "new" one has a # symbol anywhere on it's labelling and the old original one doesn't it's never gonna work ;)

Also, just refresh my memory, have you actually tested the outputs from the Ignition Switch .....................

I suggest you use a 21 Watt Light Bulb with wires attached when testing Power Circuits, Multimeters and LED Circuit Testers etc can often read 12 Volts etc, but put a load on the circuit and it disappears, I always use a good old fashioned light bulb ;)

HTH ;)
 

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Registered 1998 SLK230
Joined
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86 Posts
Discussion Starter #27
Yeah, time for sds. I did swap the tiny chip in the key fob. 1 question I thought about does the little PCB matter? Should I also make sure it is swapped also? A key to my SDS reluctance is the hassle getting the car there. Most likely will rent a car trailer again for $60 to make it as easy as possible. The collection of the 4 parts is right at $500 which was the gamble I was willing to take. They could be sold, or as you suggested, kept for spares.

I’ve talked to 2 Indy shops and one was very confident in there scan and ability to analyze. I will call again with a little review of what I’ve learned and choose the one that sounds more competent.


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Premium Member 2002 R170 SLK V8 5.0
Joined
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4,165 Posts
Why not just buy the SDS ............

You will need it repeatedly during your MB ownership, works with all MB Vehicles, so if you upgrade in the future ............ etc etc etc

And if you get rid of MB Cars you can sell it on for what you paid ;)
 

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Premium Member 2002 R170 SLK V8 5.0
Joined
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4,165 Posts
BTW the RF PCB in the Key won't stop it Cranking or Starting but if you kept your old one it would likely account for the buttons no longer flashing the indicators ;)
 

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Registered 1998 SLK230
Joined
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86 Posts
Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
Sds scan tool? Looking into these and now am confused about all the models and options. I found found a website called ODB2tool but there are so many listed, not sure where to begin.

Also would I get any useful codes from a plain old obd scanner?


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Premium Member 2002 R170 SLK V8 5.0
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4,165 Posts
SDS software on HDD pm @i860 on here, he is the best to advise ;) ;) ;) Then buy a used Dell D630 2Ghz + processor and put 4Gb RAM in it.

Buy C4 SD Connect Multiplexer with Full Lead set from Ali Express. That is your SDS complete system ;) Panasonic CF19 Toughbooks and also Panasonic Tablets are good with SDS too, but their good used prices can be scary ;) I generally buy my Dells as working (boots to post with good screen) Spares or Repairs (no HDD) just bought a D830, (same as D630 but bigger screen) for a BMW Icom system £30 + p&p If needs be good used Chargers around £20 and Batteries new about £25

TBH ask i860 but with C4 Mux I think most laptops with a LAN port will be ok 2Ghz and up, max the RAM ;)

I would not buy a full system from the likes of OBD2tool ;)

Plain OBD won't even scratch the surface, nor will iCarsoft or any of the other stuff ;)

HTH ;)
 

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Premium Member 2004 SLK350
Joined
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5,147 Posts
Sds scan tool? Looking into these and now am confused about all the models and options. I found found a website called ODB2tool but there are so many listed, not sure where to begin.

Also would I get any useful codes from a plain old obd scanner?


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Private message sent.
 

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Premium Member 2002 R170 SLK V8 5.0
Joined
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4,165 Posts
Have you seen this ....


Post#93 ......................

Apparently relay K5 Fuse F1 powers the TCU as well as the Fuel Pump, so no power getting to TCU would likely stop it cranking, (Starter Inhibited Signal), have a good look and apply power to the K40 Connector / Wire which goes to that Fuse, see what that brings to the party, trace out that wire on the Diagrams, may be a connector further along the line ;)

Could be onto something there fingers crossed ;)

HTH :)
 

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Registered 1998 SLK230
Joined
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86 Posts
Discussion Starter #34
Both my car and donor cars are 98. Here plate the pictures. The darker one is the donor one as it is installed in dash. Not any difference in them. I went back and swapped the key fob PCB and now lights flash 3romes when unlock is pushed again. I will go througth the wiring diagrams and check. Not sure what is meant by the ignition switch question. It surely seems no voltage is getting to starter or fuel pump despite all lights and throttle body get powere.
 

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Premium Member 2002 R170 SLK V8 5.0
Joined
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4,165 Posts
Well if you're sure that the labels on both are identical, (no # or both have a #) then it is reasonable to think you'd be very unlucky to have 2 dead TRP sets.
Also are you absolutely certain you haven't mixed up the 2 Immo Chips ? Might be worth trying the other, especially if you had both Keys apart on the same table / surface ????????????????????

I can see no pictures btw ;)
If all the above is good ...............

Back to missing Power / Earth somewhere or another module perhaps ...............
Remember the way it is wired for Cranking ....................

Starter is inhibited if the Auto Trans is not in P or N, K5 & f1 powers both Auto Box TCU and Fuel Pump ...................

Coincidence ? .................... I don't believe in them .....................

Question ..............

Does Fuel Pump get it's "20 seconds run then shut off if not started" time out from Pulse Module or Engine ECU ?
The Starter definitely gets its feed from Pulse Module.

I don't have time to study all the wiring diagrams for you, (and it helps you learn about your Car anyway), but I did get the decent Wiring Diagrams uploaded to Forum ......................

If the Fuel Pump also feeds from the Pulse Module start looking there ...........................

HTH ;)
 

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Registered 1998 SLK230
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86 Posts
Discussion Starter #36
No sound at all from fuel pump unless powered from an outside source. I’ll study diagram and trace back from pump to source.



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Premium Member 2002 R170 SLK V8 5.0
Joined
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4,165 Posts
You have the correct (non #) type Modules, so yes that should work.

The fact that 2 sets don't work, although not conclusive, it strongly suggests that you have an issue elsewhere, hence me suggesting that my move would be looking at what is shared between Fuel Pump Power and Cranking processes ;)

Are you 101% certain you have the correct Immo Chip in the Key Fob ?

Also belt and braces, can you please post up a photo of the piece you are calling the Immo Chip, just so we are both certain we are singing from the same hymnn sheet ;)

Report back what you find in the WD's and I'll see if I can find time soon to take a look.

Bearing in mind how long it takes to receive all the bits for an SDS system, (20 - 40 days for Mux and Lead set), I strongly suggest pulling the trigger and organising ownership of one, even if we manage to fix this issue, later on there will be others that it will make much easier to solve ;)

BTW I have no agenda or affiliation to anyone selling anything SDS related, I just know how essential it really is unless (risky and usually expensive) you would prefer to pay others to diagnose and fix these and any other MB Cars ;)

HTH
 

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Premium Member 2002 R170 SLK V8 5.0
Joined
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4,165 Posts
OK, I've just spent 50 minutes studying Wiring Diagrams.

Fuel Pump is powered directly from K40, doesn't go anywhere else.

Starter is more involved, but basically originates from Ign Switch "Start" position, then from K40 Voltages the ME ECU sends a Voltage Signal to Pulse Module, which then Sends the Crank Signal Voltage to Starter.
The Auto Trans Starter Interlock is sent from the Conductor Plate within the Transmission, it has a Microswitch in it, which signals the Engine ECU to either Crank or not Crank.

I am still very doubtful about Voltages you are getting at, through, or from your K40 Relay Module, I would confirm these with a 21Watt Bulb not a Multimeter.

I would definitely temporarily wire feeds from the Battery + to every output from your K40 simultaneously direct into the Wiring Plug(s), (except the Horn), and then see if fuel pump is running, also see if it will crank and perhaps start ;)
The only other thing is there is a "Crash Relay" at the right rear of your Engine Compartment, it does seem to affect an awful lot of stuff and I've heard they too can give grief ............

I'm not sure if that would be involved but worth looking into.

Right now I have no further suggestions, I will let you know if I do, and i will keep looking in here ;)

Back to my paint booth build ;) ......................

HTH ;)
 

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Registered 1998 SLK230
Joined
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86 Posts
Discussion Starter #40 (Edited)
Did quite a few tests on k40. Bench tests, in car, key off and key on. Lots of things learned that I’ll get sorted out, but focusing on fuel pump first.

K40 FP relay. red wire in b1 feeds fuse, fuse feeds fuel pump relay. When key is off, a lite touch on the relay to complete the circuit and b3 green/red is now with power.

Where does the signal to fire off the relay to close come from?whatever feeds that is not closing the relay.

With key on and manually, pushing the relay plate, the device on the front side of the fuel rail by the pressure test port makes a humming sound, but no rear noises from fuel pump.
 
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