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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yesterday I noticed my radiator fan was on at full speed accompanied by a CEL. The CEL came on right after fueling the car at a chevron ( w premium gas ) and the annoying fan / turbine sound began two starts later. I tried researching on the forums yesterday, but mostly what I found was information regarding the r170's. Also many mechanics and dealers guessing what the problem could be wasting the customer tons of money. Two things to mention ( maybe these have something to do with the problem ?) 1. Just swapped out the thermostat last week as it was stuck open. 2. Yesterday while at a drive thru I was returning my wallet to my pocket when I accidentally hit the gas and the engine revved really loud in park.

The reason this is annoying me is since I've owned the car the longest amount of time without a CEL has literally been 3 weeks.

For reference I'll include everything I've swapped or had repaired (labor included)
1. Engine/transmission mounts $700
2. Spark plugs/wires $300
3. intake flap $380
4. 4 out of 6 ignition coils $280
5. Thermostat $140
6. Battery $220
 

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Definitely read the code. O'Reilly or Napa will read them for free (or let you do it with their reader). You can also reset it with their tool and see if it comes back. With the work done it might be a residual problem.

If you post the code(s) we can help you.
 

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Definitely read the code. O'Reilly or Napa will read them for free (or let you do it with their reader). You can also reset it with their tool and see if it comes back. With the work done it might be a residual problem.

If you post the code(s) we can help you.
Really ought to have the car connected to the MB Star Diagnostic Assistance System (DAS) as it can tell you everything that is going on with the car. Generic code readers will primarily give you the code for engine faults. The operation of the fan may or may not be tied to an engine fault. The DAS system will not only provide you with the fault code, but in many cases it will also tell you what is likely causing it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Definitely read the code. O'Reilly or Napa will read them for free (or let you do it with their reader). You can also reset it with their tool and see if it comes back. With the work done it might be a residual problem.

If you post the code(s) we can help you.
I'll try to get them read ASAP only problem is in CA automotive stores aren't allowed to scan vehicles anymore. So the only options are to buy a reader or take it to a shop so they can run "diagnostics" on it which cost upwards of $100 ?
 

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I'll try to get them read ASAP only problem is in CA automotive stores aren't allowed to scan vehicles anymore. So the only options are to buy a reader or take it to a shop so they can run "diagnostics" on it which cost upwards of $100 ?
What are they thinking? I can't think of any good reason for that law.

Lots of problems can be diagnosed without DAS. If it is a generic code then DAS is the best option. However, I've fixed a dozen problems for people based on a non-DAS reader's ability.

As pointed out, non-engine codes are not readable with a generic reader.

Fuel pressure, mis-fires, thermostat problems, crankshaft position sensors, and the like all show up with the OBD-only read.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Update ** on the drive home from work I was keeping an eye on the coolant temp and the fan started on at around 90 degrees Celsius. Also the heat started rising rapidly quickly going over the 100 mark at this point I pulled over allowed the car to cool a bit and turned the heaters / air scarf and seat warmers on high ( unsure if the two last ones even have to do with engine temp) after that the engine temp stayed at the 85 mark and the radiator fan turned itself off, and the turbine sound went away for the rest of the trip. CEL stayed on so I'm suspecting it has to do with the problem that tripped the CEL. Getting car scanned tomorrow will report back as soon as I have codes. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for everyone's responses I'm incredibly grateful for all the help. As it stands my theory is that the coolant temperature sensor is acting up (reason for CEL), and it's feeding false temperature readings to the system therefore starting the fan even though the engine temp is technically normal. I don't suspect it is the thermostat since I just had a new one installed a few days ago because it was stuck open.
 

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Update ** on the drive home from work I was keeping an eye on the coolant temp and the fan started on at around 90 degrees Celsius. Also the heat started rising rapidly quickly going over the 100 mark at this point I pulled over allowed the car to cool a bit and turned the heaters / air scarf and seat warmers on high ( unsure if the two last ones even have to do with engine temp) after that the engine temp stayed at the 85 mark and the radiator fan turned itself off, and the turbine sound went away for the rest of the trip. CEL stayed on so I'm suspecting it has to do with the problem that tripped the CEL. Getting car scanned tomorrow will report back as soon as I have codes. Thanks
I know its very unlikely as you did replace the thermostat, but it sounds an awful lot like a faulty thermostat. Sure you fitted it correctly with al the electrical connectors in place? Wouldn't hurt to test it just to be sure.
 

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Again scan your car with a das/xentry/star machine and that will tell you the reason for your cell.
Certainly that's the best way. Until I got my own setup, it was virtually impossible to get access to one without going to an indie or a dealer. The dealer charged at least an hour and the indies weren't all that helpful. We have to make do with what we have!

I had the same problems with BMW until I got their system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
scanned car and has tons of codes saved

P2257 Relay for air pump short circuit to ground

p0414 y32 (air pump switchover valve) short circuit to ground

p2009 y22/6 (variable intake manifold switchover valve ) short circuit to ground

p0458 y58/1 (purge control valve) short circuit to ground/switchover valve permanently open

p0448 component y58/4 (activated charcoal canister shut off valve) has a short circuit to the ground

p2009 y22/3 (intake manifold tumble flap switchover valve) short circuit to ground.

A recurring theme in all these codes is a short circuit to the ground so I believe one big problem is causing all of these. Problem started after filling gas tank at a chevron, and starting the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Again those could be stored codes, best thing is to clear all the codes and see what codes appears after you start the car.
I had the mechanic clear the codes and re scan and the same codes appear. :crying:
I dont even know where to start with the codes. I also recently bought a new battery for the car (a month ago) idk if that could be a problem it was a non OEM battery from Autozone as it was the only thing nearby. ( Duralast Platinum )

Searched online and found someone with a similar issue

20 error codes 2006 c230 sport - Mercedes-Benz Forum

unfortunately the responses ended before a fix was mentioned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Before replacing your battery did you have any problems?
If it was a ground problems i would expect to see also your a/c unit short to ground
Before I replaced it if I left the car off but with any lights / AC or Comand display on it would not want to start as if the battery was flat. I have been using the AC a bit more than usual now as the weather is getting hot.
 

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Assuming there isn't a set of connectors left disconnected, I would expect to see this array if there was a serious water bath under the hood. People who power wash their engines sometimes get stuff like this. Another possibility is rodent damage. In fact, I just had one very similar that was a result of an uninvited guest gnawing on the wiring harness under the hood.

There's nothing about these cars that should take more cash than any other in its class, if properly maintained.

If you were closer to Seattle we would dig into it!
 
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