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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, new member here!

I'm so excited about picking up my first SLK 200 (03 reg) this Friday. The car has 80,000 miles, great condition and no signs of rust, a bargain (I hope) at 3.5k.

I did a little shopping around first and noticed rust and paint bubbles on a couple of other cars, in particular a black 02 reg. I now see that rust is quite a problem for SLK owners.

I have a small garage but it's full of 'stuff'. I'd rather leave the car on the drive if possible but I'm getting paranoid about rust. I live in the North East of England.

Are there any owners with tips for avoiding future rust and whether leaving the car on the drive is ok? I'd like to try and get 3-4 years of fun (4000 miles p.a) out of it.

Ideally I'd like hundreds of 03 owners to tell me that they leave theirs outside in the cold North East, never clean it and don't have rust :)

Tom
 

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Welcome from Leicestershire Tom. the 170 seems to suffer from rust around the wheels arches from what I have read and seen on the road. My advice would be treat any rust under the wings wiih a rust killer then treat all suspect areas with Waxoyl It will stop stop rust forming and reduce the spread of any in bits you cant get to. I assume the 170 has plastic inner wings. spray waxoyl behind them especially where they meet the edge of the wheel arch.
 

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Hi Tom, welcome from down the road, near Darlington. Congratulations your new SLK.

As Jon says the R170 (and the R171) can suffer from rusty rear arches. I would treat the area before you see any signs of rust.
 

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Waxoyl is very safe and wont do any damage to paintwork or plastics. It does attract dust so wipe any excess off areas that can be seen. Normal white spirit will remove it and that wont hurt any paintwork either. I have use Waxoyl on vehicles for over 40 years.

As Woolly says Prevention is better than cure :)
 

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Premium Member 2006 SLK 280-sold
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Just a warning. These cars are so beautiful and fun they make you want to wash and wax them.

Just thought I'd tell you.

You may also find yourself putting your "stuff" outside so the car can stay in. :biglaugh:
 

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Mine lives outside winter and summer but we dont get long hot summers or really bad long freezing winters just lots of rain :)
 

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If I had a garage I would definetley be putting mine in there especially in winter. If not all the time. Everyday for the last four days I have had to clean it due to a vendetta from local pigeons. Personally I think if you have a garage. Use it. That's what it's there for .....
 

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Per ardua ad cineris.
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Welcome

Hello, Tom, from a fellow newbie.
You'll find this a very welcoming forum.

I'm based in the south-west, so don't suffer with the cold so much as the wet, so for me the priority has been ensuring the seals and drains are in good condition.
Especially check the spare wheel well; water there can kill the central locking, which is expensive to replace. And the boot mat doesn't show the water leakage; it can go behind the scenes.

Welcome.
Tom
 

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Super Moderator 2010 SLK300 2LOOK
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If I had a garage I would definetley be putting mine in there especially in winter. If not all the time. Everyday for the last four days I have had to clean it due to a vendetta from local pigeons. Personally I think if you have a garage. Use it. That's what it's there for .....
I have a cure for pigeon pooh. Its called an air r**** :biglaugh:
 

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Administrator 2009 SLK 55 AMG/Founding Member 2006
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she is my mini me!!!

Welcome to SLKWorld.com: The #1 Mercedes-Benz SLK Forum from Valrico, Florida!


Thank you
Jeff
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Premium Member 1998 SLK230
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Discussion Starter #14
Wow! Thanks everyone. Many useful replies so quickly. I had always assumed rust was only a problem with cars circa 1990... shows how much I know.

May have to bite the bullet and clear the garage out when winter comes. I think I'll pop down to the local garage and ask about Waxoyl - if it's a cheap job I'll ask them to do it otherwise is it easy to do yourself?

Maybe this will be life changing and I'll actually start looking after my motors.
 

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Its easy to apply yourself but it is a wax oil so you dont want it dripping on you nice paved driveway. Put plastic sheet down where your working It sets pretty quickly so you dont have to wait hours. Its also amazing on your hands. The will be a soft as a babys butt afterwards LOL But you should wear rubber gloves as is does contain white spirit and some can react to it. Apply with brush or the sell a pump up sprayer to use with it

http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=hammerite+waxoyl&tag=mh0a9-21&index=aps&hvadid=450038497&ref=pd_sl_3ov0ab15yq_b
 

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Seal alignment

Check your seals are correctly aligned; I found that the seals in the boot were incorrectly aligned, so the water running off the rear screen was not being ejected beyond the boot seals, and so was going into the boot (running behind the plastic surrounds) and putting expensive components like the PSE at risk. (The fact I don't have a PSE just makes this an ironic failure).
Seal alignment is a basic check; seal cleanliness is the next. Check the seals are clean, and you may wish to check threads for recommended materials to refresh the effectiveness of the seals.
(It's an ongoing task for me; I keep finding things that beggar belief and just require the correct solution. For example, the seal mis-alignment had been "corrected" by application of mastic, in an attempt to correct the seal. Instead, all it needed was alignment of the seal. Next, is the cleaning of the seals... ;) )
But, of course, if the roof is still wet, folding it will entrap all sots of water, and for me causes water on the inside of the rear screen. (Is this typical?)
Anon
 

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Welcome to the forum from Houston, TX! Congrats with your new ride! You'll have lots of fun! Make sure you follow other members' suggestions like clean your drains and lube rubber seals! I'd also recommend keeping your wheels always straight when you park the car and never leave it turned to the side. These cars seem to suffer from ignition lock failure over the time. Probably because it's so sensitive in terms of locking your steering wheel. Had to replace mine last year since it started to fail. Keeping wheels straight will prevent excessive stress on steering wheel lock and premature failing! :tu:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Brilliant tips guys! I'm having major fun with my new toy.

Am taking it to the local garage on Wednesday for a service. The bodyshop has quoted £200 to grind back all four wheel arches (little bit of rust) and boot handle (only place for noticable exterior rust). He'll also apply some treatment that becomes rubberised (I think Dinitrol). I didn't understand this 100% but effectively prevents against chips to wheel arches.

I've asked them to apply waxoil too as I'd like to pros to give the first treatment.
 

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Per ardua ad cineris.
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Brilliant tips guys! I'm having major fun with my new toy.

Am taking it to the local garage on Wednesday for a service. The bodyshop has quoted £200 to grind back all four wheel arches (little bit of rust) and boot handle (only place for noticable exterior rust). He'll also apply some treatment that becomes rubberised (I think Dinitrol). I didn't understand this 100% but effectively prevents against chips to wheel arches.

I've asked them to apply waxoil too as I'd like to pros to give the first treatment.
How did your beauty treatment go?
Pictures, before and after?
 
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