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Ok, just done my first oil change on my 2002 slk 230. When I removed the old oil filter, the filter bowl was still 3/4 full of oil. This took a good 30-40 minutes to drain out!! Is this normal? I have never done an oil change on a car using this type of filter, all my previous cars have had the metal canister type. I was just a little concerned about the very long drain time. And yes, the engine was hot.
 

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Hi,

Me neither, but I don't often service Cars with 4 Cyl Petrol Engine...................

Most of my MB Customers are CDI's V12, V8 or V6, and all of these drain almost instantly that the Filter is removed, just leaving a tiny bit right in a recess at the bottom which I Vac out.

Hopefully a 4 cyl guru will be along soon ;)

Cheers Dave
 

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Based on my limited experience with oil changes on the SLK and GLC300, what you described is not normal. Removed filter cover, pulled filter and there was no waiting for oil to drain. No idea what would cause oil to remain up at the filter.

Ok, just done my first oil change on my 2002 slk 230. When I removed the old oil filter, the filter bowl was still 3/4 full of oil. This took a good 30-40 minutes to drain out!! Is this normal? I have never done an oil change on a car using this type of filter, all my previous cars have had the metal canister type. I was just a little concerned about the very long drain time. And yes, the engine was hot.
 

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Ok, just done my first oil change on my 2002 slk 230. When I removed the old oil filter, the filter bowl was still 3/4 full of oil. This took a good 30-40 minutes to drain out!! Is this normal? I have never done an oil change on a car using this type of filter, all my previous cars have had the metal canister type. I was just a little concerned about the very long drain time. And yes, the engine was hot.
I've changed my M111 oil a few times now and the drainage from the filter to the sump has always been almost instantaneous, same for the M112.

Sounds like you have a sludge/drainage issue ...

Attached .pdf pertaining to the 1.8 M111 but still relevant to the 2.3 ..
 

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Ok, just done my first oil change on my 2002 slk 230. When I removed the old oil filter, the filter bowl was still 3/4 full of oil. This took a good 30-40 minutes to drain out!! Is this normal? I have never done an oil change on a car using this type of filter, all my previous cars have had the metal canister type. I was just a little concerned about the very long drain time. And yes, the engine was hot.
An extra thought on this and perhaps the obvious one is that did you pull the dipstick out at the same time?
 

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An extra thought on this and perhaps the obvious one is that did you pull the dipstick out at the same time?
Yea, dipstick was out and filler cap off. I know that the engine oil had not been changed for a while before I purchased the car. I did use an engine flush because of this (i don't normally use them). Will see what happens next time.
 

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I did use an engine flush because of this (i don't normally use them).
I used Wynn's Engine Flush once, about 25yrs ago, and managed to seize the mains bearings in a 2.9 Sierra - never again.
It was a dear day out as they say :crying:

For a 230 you've got 2 oil changes HERE for < £40
 

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Did you drive it with the Flush Oil in it ??

Your only supposed to idle it for 20 mins if it's like the stuff I use nowadays ;)
 

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Did you drive it with the Flush Oil in it ??

Your only supposed to idle it for 20 mins if it's like the stuff I use nowadays ;)
No. I went by the book and did everything that I was supposed to do and after 10mins or so it started to make some very loud clattering noises whilst still ticking over on my driveway. On stripdown we discovered that one of the shells had broken in half :frown:
 

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That's a real bummer, I'm not a gambler but I'd bet it dislodged a large bunch of sludge and blocked the Strainer in the pan, those old V6 were very prone to build up of sludge.
 

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I had an engine with a sludge problem once, my mechanic took the oil plug out and poured mineral spirits down through the valve train for quite a while until it ran clear. IDK if that will help you, just sharing my experience.
 

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My mechanic buddy has said the only thing he trusts is using a quart of auto trans fluid in with the oil. Change after 500 miles and be nice to it. It still has lubrication properties but also a lot of detergents in it. Putting other additives in can break down the oil and lead to issues like above. I haven't tried it myself, but he is very good.

Edit: Did some reading and it sounds like this used to be more true in the past, but not with the newer oils. A high quality engine flush is what is recommended now.
 

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When I change the oil on my SLK32 I pour the new oil into the filter bowl. It's a bigger target and drains instantly.
That is the MB recommended way of adding the new oil when you do an oil and filter change. Bigger target, faster flow, easier and cleaner :tu:
 

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Hi,

That's how I do 'em, especially CDI Engines, some of those hold 11 Litres fully synthetic, the Invoice total makes interesting reading for the customer :grin:

Cheers Dave
 
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