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Discussion Starter #1
Ok folks,
After numerous research reading I finally decided to go with the Dynamat Superlite and install in on my roof. I also installed a Dynaliner on top of it too =)
First, I must say that this is a very light material! It doesn't weight a lot, and used 1 and a half sheet for my roof. The Dynaliner is just a foam-like material which weighs almost nothing :tu: and goes on top of Dynamat.
It improved my comfort and quiet by around good %50-60. At least when it rains, the raindrops don't sound like hail! Wooohooo!
I chose Dynamat Superlite simply because I didn't want to put too much pressure on my roof. I bet the Dynamat Extreme would do a better job but it would also put a bit more pressure on the hydraulics. The Superlite is about 2-3mm thin. But the Extreme is at least twice as thick.

The application process is really simple. First, prepare the surface with some alcohol solution. I used 50/50 water and alcohol and one of the Windex bottles. Wipe everything clean and dry! Then I roughly measured the Dynamat, and started applying it with the roller that was included. Really simple.




Apply the Dynaliner the same way: Clean the surface of the applied Dynamat, dry it, measure the Dynaliner and use the same roller to apply it.




I liked this stuff so much that I applied it in small places where wires can come in contact with the metal roof and make a noise. See the pictures below! That made a really nice improvement!!! No more rattles!!!:tu::tu::tu: I have a quiet interior right now!!










BTW, while I was there I decided to change the rubber supports for the roof, since mine looked smashed and old.
You need some patience to do that! Make sure your top hydraulics worked and roof functions correctly!
First thing you need to do before removing the rubber support is to mark the position of the nut with a marker. Make sure you perform this step to allow for proper position of the rubber so it won't smash or be in the air.

Then you need to remove 4 bolts on each side that hold the roof to the metal mountings. To do that you will need 30 torx as far as I remember. Release the tension from the screws until it starts unscrewing freely but do not remove them! Do both sides. Now, the most important part! Start pressing the roof switch in small intervals. Watch the top hydraulic locking cylinder lock disengage and unlock the roof. As soon as it starts opening release the switch! HINT: One thing that may help further is releasing the pressure from the hydraulics system.
Take a look at this picture. It's the left screw of "bronze" color.

The tool is located in the plastic panel that covers the access to the passenger's tail light from the trunk.
Start unscrewing this nut counter-clockwise until it stops.
You will notice that the pressure is released and the metal support bars can be pushed manually back and forward a little bit. Unscrew the 4 above mentioned screws (Remember which one goes where since the have paint markings on how tight they should be!!!) and since these metal support bars will have a play you should have a room to unscrew the rubber support. Simply unscrew it. I think it's a 10mm. Then take your new support, hold it side by side and mark the position on the new rubber support. The next thing I did is that I transferred the old "yellowish" nut onto a new rubber support post since it has the paint marking on it on how hard to have to tighten it. It's seen from the picture.

Asyou can see from the picture I used the new bolt but later I changed it :)

Screw it back in and tighten it. Do the same with the second side.

Align the metal support and screw 4 bolts back in. I would recommend not tightening these all they way until you have all 4 of them in place and align the roof properly!
Now tighten those! Make sure the alignment is correct! Rescrew the pressure bolt in the trunk. Check if you roof is working!
You're done!:tu:
 

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I realize this is an old post but I did have a question about the thickness of the Dynaliner. Did you use the 1/8" or did you go thinker then that?

Sincerely,

BivDog
 

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Useful Post And...

Just wanted to update, great post. For anyone that is interested I was able to use Dynamat Extreme and 1/4" Dynaliner without any space constraints....it's plumbed in perfectly within the space cavity.
 

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Just wanted to update, great post. For anyone that is interested I was able to use Dynamat Extreme and 1/4" Dynaliner without any space constraints....it's plumbed in perfectly within the space cavity.
And with just that, it really helps the noise level?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It does help a little bit :) at least when it rains it doesn't bang as much over your head :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Great post! I installed FatMat Rattle Trap in my doors and under the carpet of my trunk and inside the spare tire compartment a couple months ago. I haven't gotten to my roof yet, but I already have my liner out (had to rebuilt the hydraulic cylinder) so I will add it there as well soon. I will say that it has made a significant difference, especially inside the doors with road noise. My car was/is missing a lot of pieces when I bought it and I still haven't discovered a the small missing pieces. On my car, there was no sound dampening material inside the door so it would make almost an echoie thud when I closed my door before. Now that I have the FatMat in, I don't have the echo anymore. The stuff is a pain to try to get between the door to cover the entire thing, but definitely worth it. A lot less road noise and the already great bass sounds even better!
 

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Have you added it anywhere else?
I added it under the hood of the car, under the existing hood cover and it makes the hood cool to the touch. Not sure about the noise as it relates to the hood but between the roof and the hood the car has become pretty quiet in the cabin interior when the top and windows are up.

I have some extra material and the trunk body panels are out while I wait for rebuilt hydraulic cylinders to come back so I might do the trunk sometime in the next two weeks.

Biv
 
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