[slow_coach]

Afternoon all

Took the car out of storage today to give it a run and found that the drivers main window won't go up.

I don't think it's the switch as I can here the click in the door when I push it in the up direction. The motor must be fine as it wound the window down.

Drivers side wing mirror works fine too as does passengers side.

Anyideas welcomed!?

Cheers

Simon

 

[jbanks15]

won't go up at all?

Have you tried synching it?

 

[jbanks15]

http://www.mbusa.com/vcm/MB/DigitalAssets/pdfmb/ownersmanual/2005_slk350_slk55amg.pdf

page 236

Condition of battery? if not fully charged/new, electronic things act funny

 

[ORcoast]

Hi,
That was one of the symptoms that I had. I opened the door to look at the control module to investigate.
I posted my results on the following post.
http://www.slkworld.com/slk-r171-general-discussion/28874-passenger-door-lock-not-working-3.html
see photos on page 3. In my case pressing the window up/down button would cause you to hear the relay but the window would not move. That sounded similar to your case.
Good luck.

 

[slow_coach]

I tried the reset but I'm not sure that I've done it right. Going to try that again tomorrow.

If theres water in the module I'd have thought neither the door lock or the mirror would work, but they do. What was your fix in the end a new module?

The clicking is the thing that's worrying as it means something is getting a signal from the switch and it's not sending current to the motor.

 

[jbanks15]

Condition of battery? if not fully charged/new, electronic things act funny

 

[slow_coach]

Battery is now fully charged and starts the engine.

 

[jbanks15]

and can you synch the windows or window still does not go up?

 

[jbanks15]

is that original battery?

 

[mchild]

If the battery was at all low then the car may need to be re-booted. Disconnect the battery for at least 30 minutes and when you reconnect you will need to reset your clock and the windows. See if that gets your window functioning properly. If not, it could well be the door control module but a session with MB DAS will confirm before you go to the expense of replacing the module.

 

[slow_coach]

Haven't tried the resync yet as I'm in the pub looking glum. The battery is about two years old and is fully charged, starts the engine first time all other electronics all work an no othe faults displayed on the dash.

That resync is what I'll try tomorrow as per manual and cross my fingers it works.

 

[ORcoast]

I did not end up purchasing a new module my repair worked and is still working. The loss of function was not all or none. The window was the first thing to go later the mirror. Each door has its own module so the loss of window function was only on the driver side. After fixing the driver side i opened the passenger side which was functioning properly and found that it was showing signs of corrosion also.
You really should check them. The fix is easy. I removed the modules opened them and using circuit board spray cleaner and a tooth brush cleaned all corrosion. The corrosion was shorting the connections between components of the board.

 

[slow_coach]

I'll defo have a look.

When you say circuit board cleaner what is it you used,is there a specific brand? Do you spray it on the board an scrub it with a toothbrush and let it dry and put the module back in? Where was the corrosion centred around any particular place or all over?

An finally how do you get the door card off to get to it?

 

[ORcoast]

The door panel is easy to remove. See the following post http://www.slkworld.com/slk-r171-general-discussion/312914-removing-door-panel.html
I don't remember the brand of circuit cleaner I used. I will get that for you tomorrow. It is in my garage and it is now late at night.
the module is the black box in the photo attached. open then box using the small tabs around the sides. remove the circuit board and inspect it. I then sprayed the circuit board with circuit board cleaner and used the brush to gently remove the chalky white and black stuff. I then sprayed lightly holding the board vertically and let any debris run off. Dry time is very quick with most circuit board cleaners. I reassembled all and it worked for me.

 

[ORcoast]

The cleaner I used is:
CRC Industries 4.5 oz Quick-Dry Electronics Cleaner Aerosol
very importantly it leaves no residue.
I hope this helps. Good luck

 

[slow_coach]

Ok got the board out an there was water and corrosion visible so gave it a blast with a hair dryer and cleaned with electrical contact cleaner. Reasembled the door but no joy.

It still makes clicks when pushing the windows up button but the window doesn't come up. What I did notice was the motor was quite warm to the touch. Is that normal or does anyone know how to test the window motor?

 

[ORcoast]

Hi,
No joy, bummer. At least you got the water out and removed the corrosion. Hopefully the module is not bad. I think MB should take some responsibility for this poor design.

Because the motor is heating up I would suspect that it is receiving power.
I would check that nothing is blocking the windows movement. (is it jammed somehow?)
It could also be that the motor is dying and has become too week to move your window. even when powered
It could be the motor is not getting enough current to produce the power necessary to move the window.
there are many other reasons.
jbanks15 posted the following link BBB Industries - TSB's & Wiring Diagrams - End User License Agreement
it is very useful for electrical diagrams. I also attached a diagram of your door control unit which would indicate that Pin 6 and 3 on your motor are the power pins. M10/3 and M10/4 are your two motors
Remember each door has a control unit. I would check the other door for water damage. I also made a cover using plastic sheeting to prevent future water damage.