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Discussion Starter #1
Both of my doors will not shut tight when closed. My wife has a CLK350 that the windows drop down an inch before and after closing the doors. My SLK230 does not do this.

Does the SLK230 windows also drop a little to allow the door to close tight when shut, or do they just stay put?

I noticed if i dropped the window all the way down and close the door hard, it generally latches. Some times it will not.

Anyone else have this problem? Windows suppose to go down a little or not? Or - is it just a door alignment issue.

Next item on agenda: small leak in locking hydraulic cylinder above passenger seat. Ever so small drip. now the red button for the roof comes on and makes noise for no reason at all. I suspect low fluid level in the pump.

Mike Pompura M.S. CIS
[email protected]
 

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Administrator 2009 SLK 55 AMG/Founding Member 2006
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97,405 Posts

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Premium Member 2005 SLK55 AMG; 2005 SLK350
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You can adjust the door latch as well as the window to ensure there die closed properly.
 

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I had hard time closing drivers door too. Maybe you have the same problem.
In my case window was not sitting right in the upper door seal when closed with windows up. Check how window sits all the way to the back window.
I have hard time explaning how this looks like so you can try this yourself. Try closing the door with window up and observe how window lines up with upper door seal. Now put window down and cloase the door again, then put window back up with door closed. Does window line up with the seal like before, or was before more leaning on top of the seal then fittning snugly under it?

if so, the position on the window when you put the window up after closing is correct position. You can also lightly try pushing window and see if if then hops under the seal like it should.

If this is the case, window stoper that prevents window from going too far up has fallen off and now window goes too far. The result is that window no longer fits under upper door seal when you try to close it with window up and the window just kinda leans on top of it.
To fix this you just remove door panel and reglue metal stoper back to the lover part of the window. In my case it feel off in the front , so I also had to remove lower speeker to gain acces to that part of the window where the stopper was glued (you should see where it was, it's glued with some kind of green glue). I just used some superglue and so far it holds good.

If window still doesn't fit under the seal try adjusting the hight and the pitch of the window to get it under the seal when it closes. You should also have lot less wind noise after this fix.

Hope this helps, if not you, some other guys.
 

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Registered 2002 SLK 230 R170
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355 Posts
Door Closure

Presume it will catch OK on the first, partially open, position.

Had this occur on one door when I first purchased the car. :frown:

Turned out it was the Door Striker that had moved a fraction of a mm over the prior life of the car.

Logical when you think of it - Especially if a previous owner was a door slammer.

Before starting on this Line all around the striker with a soft Grade Pencil to give you a reference.
 

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I've been having this problem since I bought my car as well. My w202 driver door did the same. I had no torx bits when I owned that car, so I just slammed it several times until it worked.

Did you ever resolve your issue?
 

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Registered 1999 SLK230
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Door not closing properly

Hi Jeff,

I have the same problem on my US R170 1999 SLK 230. But I had a UK R170 1998 SLK 230 model and I was sure the windows dropped and raised when opening and closing the doors.
I am getting old so it could be a memory thing, if you are absolutely sure I will stop chasing my tail.


Thanks Slik:wink:
 

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Administrator 2009 SLK 55 AMG/Founding Member 2006
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Hi Jeff,

I have the same problem on my US R170 1999 SLK 230. But I had a UK R170 1998 SLK 230 model and I was sure the windows dropped and raised when opening and closing the doors.
I am getting old so it could be a memory thing, if you are absolutely sure I will stop chasing my tail.


Thanks Slik:wink:
Howdy! i will not doubt you
I had a 2002 slk 320 r170 and the windows did not do that as I recall
also, that procedure not in the manual
the manual does say
Express opening of door windows
Press switch k past resistance point and release –
window lowers to fully open position. To interrupt
procedure, briefly press j or k

but nothing about synching or resetting windows
 

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Registered 1999 SLK230
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Howdy! i will not doubt you
I had a 2002 slk 320 r170 and the windows did not do that as I recall
also, that procedure not in the manual
the manual does say
Express opening of door windows
Press switch k past resistance point and release –
window lowers to fully open position. To interrupt
procedure, briefly press j or k

but nothing about synching or resetting windows
Hi Jeff,

Pretty sure you are right. As you say there is nothing in the owners manual, that's a bit of a clue!

Thanks for your help:laugh:
 

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Registered 2001 SLK320
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889 Posts
Ok I had this issue with this second 2001 SLK320.
I bought a set of Torx 3/8 drive sockets for about $30.
By backing off the bolts of the latching eyes and moving them in board I could get them to shut and hold tight so they did not rattle going down the road.
The issue was that when I did that the door sat inside the rear quarters which looked really bad.
At first I thought it was worn latches and eyes but with only 35000 mi. that seemed odd given that I put 300,000 km on a W124 E class and never had a latch or eye issue over 8 yr.
Upon further examination I realized that after 18 yr the seals were pretty soft and collapsed under pressure so here is the fix,
Get some 3/8" windshield washer tubing and soap the heck out of it. Peel the door seal out of the cap that it goes into at the top of the door at the rear end of the window.
Spray soapy water down the tube that forms the seal. Thread the soaped up tubing down the seal. It won't go all the way before friction overcomes your ability to push the tubing into the seal. Don't worry about it.
Cut it off flush with the top edge of the seal and put it back inside the cap. You should find the doors are snug after adjusting the eye so it is at the right vertical angle and inside the rear fender just enough to align the door with the rear fender.
My doors are great and they don't leak. $6 to fix it.
 

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Just to help a bit more..

OK. New to the site and not sure I’ve done this right. If I did, there will be an active link and three photos here.

Although the original thread is a year old, I’m thinking the problem with the windows going up too high in the early SLK’s is pretty common, and others will come across this thread in their search for solutions. So trying to provide some additional info for those folks. The link below (borrowed from Jbanks15) is to a set of YouTube videos on common DIY repairs. One is on how to remove the door panel - which is best done with some knowledge of where the fasteners are, etc.

I’ve also attached three photos of my recent repair. As others indicated, the problem is often (and was in my case) caused by a pair of metal “brackets” that are glued to the window glass falling off. On taking the panel off, if this is your issue, you’ll find one or both of the brackets lying in the bottom of the door frame. Take the main door speaker off. Three machine screws and a wire connector. With the window all the way down, you’ll see the place where the brackets were installed. Glue residue and grime outline on the glass. Clean that all up, buff up the brackets on a wire wheel if you have one. Opinions vary on best adhesive. I like JB Weld two part epoxy and it worked for me. One bracket is glued to the “outside” of the glass with the horizontal leg facing to the inside. Position it just forward of the “corner” where the bottom edge of glass angles slightly upward and snug it up so the horizontal leg is tight to the bottom edge of glass. Figure out a way to keep it in position while epoxy sets. Once glue has set on that one, take the second and glue it to the INSIDE of the window glass, with the horizontal leg sitting on TOP of the horizontal leg of the first bracket. That’s it! Once epoxy has had time to set, check that feels solid and then raise your window and see how it fits against the seals with the top up. In my case it was now perfect. If it isn’t, others have posted how-to’s on window adjustment by loosening screws in the door and shifting in slotted mounting holes. I didn’t have to do that so won’t comment. In my case, since only the top bracket had fallen off, the driver’s door was only rising a bit too high. On the passenger side, though, BOTH brackets had fallen off and that window raised way too high. I had to bump the window open a bit just to get the door closed.

Three pics I attached show the entire driver’s door with the panel off and speaker removed (round hole near front of door). Other two show, first, close up of the bottom of the glass and the location of the first bracket installed. Truth be told, in my case, that bracket was still in place - so it was pretty clear to me how the other was supposed to mount. Last photo shows that second bracket epoxied back in place. (The surfaces to be glued were buffed to shiny metal.)

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL7P_LHAJFk_tvwerkvQavsyqsacOm0jTR
 

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