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Discussion Starter #1
My key can no longer turn to close the driver side door , and the same thing happened with the trunk lock; they stopped working at the same time. Since I bought the car, the remote buttons never worked so I can not lock it using the remote from the key. From the inside of the car, if I press the switch to lock/unlock the car, everything works fine. What could be happening? Both in the door lock and in the trunk lock, the key only turns to the left. This is a new key that i made 2 weeks ago because the other one broke. It was working fine until yesterday and it suddenly stopped working. The car starts fine and the key can turn the ignition without any problems
 

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Administrator 2009 SLK 55 AMG/Founding Member 2006
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My key can no longer turn to close the driver side door , and the same thing happened with the trunk lock; they stopped working at the same time. Since I bought the car, the remote buttons never worked so I can not lock it using the remote from the key. From the inside of the car, if I press the switch to lock/unlock the car, everything works fine. What could be happening? Both in the door lock and in the trunk lock, the key only turns to the left. This is a new key that i made 2 weeks ago because the other one broke. It was working fine until yesterday and it suddenly stopped working. The car starts fine and the key can turn the ignition without any problems
Inside button works = Vacuum unit and PSE works at least "sort of".

Remote button needs batteries, if remote batteries check out good, reciever and/or control unit may be faulty. Remote also need synchronising with the car properly, especially if batteries have been out for a while.

If the old key broke, I bet (a small amount, a virtual beer or so) the door lock(s) are worn and stick some. A quick fix may be to lubricate the lock with lock oil (graphite and very thin oil) or spraying it with WD40 (*). Dirt may stop the tumbler from moving (rotating) if the locking pins stick and doesn't move.

Anything is possible, i. e. that the key moves the ignition well, but not door and trunk locks (tolerances, minor error in cutting the tracks etc). Work the key a Little up and down and in and out, small movements and see what happens.

(*) Locksmiths do NOT like this DIY approach. These fluids collect dirt and locks m iths do not like anything that make dirt stick to the lock parts. Still, it may work.
 

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Super Moderator UK SLK 55 AMG 2007
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Very common for the key not to work the boot.

Road debris is attracted to it like a magnet
and it is rare that we use keys on this lock.

The same is true for door locks, but not often.

The WD40 and wiggling the key is the common 'quick' fix.
I say 'quick' because it often takes 15 to 30 mins.
 

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Super Moderator CA 2012 SLK55 AMG w/P30
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I kinda doubt it's a dirty/unused lock (infrequent use as has been intimated at). He said he's never been able to use the fob: ie he has to use the key to open anything since he bought the car. If it suddenly stopped working yesterday, I don't think it's dirt. He should have noticed a gradual stiffening when trying to turn the key and he doesn't say anything about that.

My key can no longer turn to close the driver side door , and the same thing happened with the trunk lock; they stopped working at the same time. Since I bought the car, the remote buttons never worked so I can not lock it using the remote from the key.
I know that the key is stiff when it's not used on a regular basis and it seems it might be the case here. The suddeness is what has me thinking it's something other than lack of use.
 

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I kinda doubt it's a dirty/unused lock (infrequent use as has been intimated at). He said he's never been able to use the fob: ie he has to use the key to open anything since he bought the car. If it suddenly stopped working yesterday, I don't think it's dirt. He should have noticed a gradual stiffening when trying to turn the key and he doesn't say anything about that.
He says, however, that the old key broke and the new is problematic.
 

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Super Moderator CA 2012 SLK55 AMG w/P30
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He says, however, that the old key broke and the new is problematic.
Never having had a broken-in-the-lock key <<knock on wood>> (I'm assuming this is where it broke), is it possible that a tooth(?) (a tiny piece--one of the cuts) also broke off and may be lodged in there? If the new worked and then didn't, maybe the little piece got dislodged?

Doesn't answer the question though about both locks not working at the same time though.
 

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Never having had a broken-in-the-lock key <<knock on wood>> (I'm assuming this is where it broke), is it possible that a tooth(?) (a tiny piece--one of the cuts) also broke off and may be lodged in there? If the new worked and then didn't, maybe the little piece got dislodged?

Doesn't answer the question though about both locks not working at the same time though.
Not to overanalyze this, but if the problem is "dirt meets a tight new key" it's the cheapest fix. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The problem is probably a defective key, I tried to lock it using the remains of an old key and it worked for both locks. So I guess the problem has been solved, I need another key. Does anybody have an idea on how to make the fob work again? It?s defintely not a battery or sync problem...The locksmith once told me that the transmitter from my key is dead, he tested it and there?s no response. Getting a new key from the dealership is not an option because the dealership in Costa Rica does not service cars from 1998
 

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The problem is probably a defective key, I tried to lock it using the remains of an old key and it worked for both locks. So I guess the problem has been solved, I need another key. Does anybody have an idea on how to make the fob work again? It?s defintely not a battery or sync problem...The locksmith once told me that the transmitter from my key is dead, he tested it and there?s no response. Getting a new key from the dealership is not an option because the dealership in Costa Rica does not service cars from 1998
I had my key made off the Vin in Texas of all places. Probably the lock smith version will cause more problems. Lots of key shops have the 'test your Fob' display that flashes if good. Easy enough to take apart and clean/bend the button battery contacts. If sitting for a long time they oxidize at the contact points. You can sometimes spin the battery if its still good.

Also in my 'broken PMU pump woes' there is a force lock mode that fights the key.. If you take your door panel off you will most likely find you have broken the lock to key mounting bracket (its a round tumbler part that the key shaft moves about). They break very easy and are separate from the air actuating part. You can pull it out and try glue it but not really worth the effort if you can find a cheep used one. I did fix mine though
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The locks are fine; the new key that they made wasn?t perfect and that was the whole problem. I imported my car from the states and When I bought the car, I received the car with only 1 key that was falling to pieces, therefore I had to make a new one and put the chip that sends the codes to the starter in the new one. That one worked for a couple of years. The remote control has never worked, not once since I bought the car, everything has been tried but apparently the part that transmits the signal to the doors to lock or unlock remotely in my key is dead, so a new battery or cleaning the contacts didn?t help at all, it has been tested with the proper equipment and it?s dead. My understanding is that I need to buy that part that goes inside of the key or a new key that includes the part that works as the remote because in the only key hat I have, that part is dead.
 
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