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* Registered
2001 SLK320 Sport - 99K miles
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19 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So, I have had my car for about 1 week. When I bought the car I knew there would be 2 issues.1 - the bright lights did not work, and 2 - the drivers door lock actuator did not work. Figured it would be a fuse or bulb for the bright lights. No, it was the combo switch. So, I took care of that problem and took the wife for a drive today. About 30 minutes into our drive a BAS/ESF light appears on the dash. I pull over to research the condition on my smart phone and try holding the ESF switch for 5 seconds. Then I turned the wheel from left to right. Light still on. I shut the engine off for 30 seconds and when I started it back up, the light was still on but it would not shift out of PARK. I released the shift lever with the manual unlock (with a pen) and drove home. More research and many threads later, I decided I'd look at the brake pedal switch. I found the switch stuck closed, so I played with it until it popped out and solved my problems (a new switch - $7.95US on eBay - is on order). I then plugged my OBDII code reader into the port and found 2 error codes, P0410 and P0173. This car will not let me clear those codes and I have an inspection in 3 days. I still need to address the door lock actuator.
My post title says it all. Is this a car that is going to have things go constantly wrong with it? The Mercedes dealers here have no reservations about charging absolutely absurd fees for their service and parts and cannot even get me a spare key. UHG! A disappointment in my decision to buy a Mercedes is rising, along with a distrust in depending on this vehicle to not break down on me when I'm on the road.
 

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Premium Member 2002 SLK320
Joined
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810 Posts
I've never had any pain. Most reliable car I've had and cheap(ish) to maintain (doing it myself, of course). While a few things have needed replacing (water pump, etc) mine's never broken down at the roadside.

You could be lucky or unlucky with any make of car. Take my son's Golf for instance............no, you don't have time! :)
 

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Super Moderator (UK)
2002 Blue SLK320 known as 'Silkie"
Joined
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3,706 Posts
I have had issues along the way with Silkiie but all niggles and all fixable either by myself or by a competent mechanic.

The issues, though, are far outweighed by the absolute joy of driving her.

Most of the issues you'll face are ones that have been found by other members on the forum, so you will likely find your answers by searching or asking questions. Buying a new-to-you car will likely mean you're buying the issues left by the previous owner because they can't be bothered to tackle them. That's likely to be what's happened with your car, but one-by-one we can help you get them sorted.

The door lock actuator, for example, is vacuum-driven (not electric) so you could find that a hose in the door has come adrift or has perished slightly. There are fixes for that on the forum.
The BAS/ESF light can be on for a number of reasons - one of them you've found (and, as it happened, a relatively easy fix).

I suggest you aim to do what's needed to get through the inspection first and then make a list as you find more issues and tackle them with the help of the forum, one-by-one.

Welcome to SLK ownership
 

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Premium Member 2008 SLK55 AMG
Joined
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469 Posts
I sypathise with your problems. But, you have just bought a 20 year old car with 100 thousand miles on it. Equally, you could buy a new car, and have a lot of problems with that. But, there would be no helpful forum of people, that have previous experience, and may be of help. Plus, you would have to go back to the dealer to get it sorted. Within 5 minutes of me fixing my car on Saturday, my house back door wouldn't open, and my boiler failed. Such is life !!! And indeed my 55 did die on me in Scotland this year !! It is "nice" to deal with problems one at a time, but sometimes it's just a juggling act. Good luck with your door actuator and lghts.(y)
 

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*Premium Member
2002 slk320 black on black interiot
Joined
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20 Posts
I would check the hoses that connect to your Mac sensor they get brittle and could crack 2 days ago a lady pulled out in front of me and I slammed on the brakes and car stopped so fast the hose blew apart my transmission went out for a minute and the lights bas light came on , I went home pulled cover off engine and saw what happend to hose, fixed it I’m unhooked battery for a couple hours , did the reset and lock to lock , then turned off . Then drove down the road and the lights went off and the cars runs like new again, I hope this might help by the codes you have.
 

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* Registered
2001 SLK320 Sport - 99K miles
Joined
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19 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I was able to finally clear the P0173 code with my scanner tool, but P0410 won't clear. So, upon reading posts here I decided to check the infamous K40 relay. The suspected bad soldier joint was fine, but the relay just behind that soldier joint had badly burnt contacts. The plug closest to the firewall was also not seated correctly (was slightly cocked and not fully seated). I used a point file to shine the contacts and reassembled the relay. I took the wife for another 50 mile drive and had no issues at all. I think I will replace the check valve to be proactive. The car is just too nice to drive to give up on - Yet.
 

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Premium Member 2005 SLK200K 'Little Growler'
Joined
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1,246 Posts
I have had issues along the way with Silkiie but all niggles and all fixable either by myself or by a competent mechanic.

The issues, though, are far outweighed by the absolute joy of driving her.

Most of the issues you'll face are ones that have been found by other members on the forum, so you will likely find your answers by searching or asking questions. Buying a new-to-you car will likely mean you're buying the issues left by the previous owner because they can't be bothered to tackle them. That's likely to be what's happened with your car, but one-by-one we can help you get them sorted.

The door lock actuator, for example, is vacuum-driven (not electric) so you could find that a hose in the door has come adrift or has perished slightly. There are fixes for that on the forum.
The BAS/ESF light can be on for a number of reasons - one of them you've found (and, as it happened, a relatively easy fix).

I suggest you aim to do what's needed to get through the inspection first and then make a list as you find more issues and tackle them with the help of the forum, one-by-one.

Welcome to SLK ownership
Beautifully put Martin. Should be a sticky (y)
 

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Super Moderator (UK)
2002 Blue SLK320 known as 'Silkie"
Joined
·
3,706 Posts
I was able to finally clear the P0173 code with my scanner tool, but P0410 won't clear. So, upon reading posts here I decided to check the infamous K40 relay. The suspected bad soldier joint was fine, but the relay just behind that soldier joint had badly burnt contacts. The plug closest to the firewall was also not seated correctly (was slightly cocked and not fully seated). I used a point file to shine the contacts and reassembled the relay. I took the wife for another 50 mile drive and had no issues at all. I think I will replace the check valve to be proactive. The car is just too nice to drive to give up on - Yet.
That's great news about the relay, but I caution you about the K40 soldered joints. Looking at the solder joints isn't enough, unless you use a jewellers' loupe or a strong magnifying glass. There can be microscopic cracks in the solder joints that make and break contact with movement or temperature changes and the only way to be absolutely sure is to reflow the solder on each joint. Takes about 30 minutes and avoids all these intermittent running issues where the car won't start or the radiator fan runs continuously. I did mine about six months after getting the car and I've not had a related issue since.
 

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Premium Member 2002 R170 SLK V8 5.0
Joined
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4,165 Posts
Now you know that K40 is the issue, to avoid future hassle fit a new NB one, and forget it for another 20 years ......................

Or risk it breaking down at any time, usually late night 'p' ing rain and middle of nowhere with Bears and "Hill Billies" in the Woods and no phone signal 🤣
 

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Registered 1997 SLK230
Joined
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313 Posts
I repaired my K40 by reflowing all the solder joints, replacing the traction relay and then fitting a jumper wire to bridge an internally high resistance PC track issue. At the time I did this it was really just to prove to myself I could but also in the knowledge something else was sure bound to go wrong with it. And sure enough it has developed another track fault giving a high resistance connection to the fuel pump relay. At the moment it works fine if the battery is fully charged but if the battery voltage drops a tad when you turn the key the familiar clicks and noises from the fuel pump and other places are absent. Charge it up a bit and it's all good again.

But just today I took delivery of a brand new MB K40 that will be going in tomorrow.

Sent from my SM-J530F using Tapatalk
 

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Registered 2004 SLK320
Joined
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171 Posts
I recently reset my intermittent p0410 on accident by disconnecting my battery when I had to do something. It hasn’t come back yet but I likely need a new pump, it whines on startup sometimes.
 

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* Registered
2001 SLK320 Sport - 99K miles
Joined
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19 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Upon recommendation, I have purchased a new K40 relay. Part #1705450305 on eBay for $157US. There is another relay, Part #2105400072 on eBay that looks identical for a few less $$s, but I didn't want to chance some electrical difference.
 

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* Registered
2001 SLK320 Sport - 99K miles
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
So, I was on my way to get the car inspected and my Check Engine light comes on. Good Grief! That light had never been on, but I did replace my battery last night.
The tech checked and cleared my codes. Told me to drive 20 miles and come back. I did and the light did not come back on, but when he checked it the cars monitors had not cleared. Does anyone know a secret to clearing the monitors on OBDII?
It did pass the safety part of the inspection.
 

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Registered 2001 SLK230
Joined
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4 Posts
So, I have had my car for about 1 week. When I bought the car I knew there would be 2 issues.1 - the bright lights did not work, and 2 - the drivers door lock actuator did not work. Figured it would be a fuse or bulb for the bright lights. No, it was the combo switch. So, I took care of that problem and took the wife for a drive today. About 30 minutes into our drive a BAS/ESF light appears on the dash. I pull over to research the condition on my smart phone and try holding the ESF switch for 5 seconds. Then I turned the wheel from left to right. Light still on. I shut the engine off for 30 seconds and when I started it back up, the light was still on but it would not shift out of PARK. I released the shift lever with the manual unlock (with a pen) and drove home. More research and many threads later, I decided I'd look at the brake pedal switch. I found the switch stuck closed, so I played with it until it popped out and solved my problems (a new switch - $7.95US on eBay - is on order). I then plugged my OBDII code reader into the port and found 2 error codes, P0410 and P0173. This car will not let me clear those codes and I have an inspection in 3 days. I still need to address the door lock actuator.
My post title says it all. Is this a car that is going to have things go constantly wrong with it? The Mercedes dealers here have no reservations about charging absolutely absurd fees for their service and parts and cannot even get me a spare key. UHG! A disappointment in my decision to buy a Mercedes is rising, along with a distrust in depending on this vehicle to not break down on me when I'm on the road.
If your power mirror isn’t working also on the same side as the door lock and fuses are ok it’s most likely the door control module. Easy fix but match the part number with one from eBay, they are also left and right handed. Takes 30 mins to swap out, if your windows don’t drop 1/4” on opening door, pull the fuses (27 and 28 I think) for a few mins and they reset. DCM used is around $130-150. Hopefully you get back on the road and you don’t have a lemon, they are somewhat quirky mechanically but with YouTube and this forum and some basic wrenching they are a fun car to own.
 
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