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Hello;
Thanks for the informative response. Yes, the problem fits with the characteristics of mount failure so I guess I will give it a shot. I just changed the serpentine belt, tensioner and idlers. So? Just sayin... I need more frustration and can't afford the shop.

One question: Where do I place the jack stands? There are jack points and that is where the jack will be. So once it is jacked up on the jack, I don't see where to place stands that is solid. Probably obvious, but not to me. I want to be able to turn the front wheels so I need the front end on stands. I might be able to get the rear end on ramps.

Thanks again. I copied the various instructions and watched the video. Much appreciated.

Rich
 

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2007 SLK350
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664 Posts
Just gone through the process of jacking the front end up, to get both wheels off the ground. Its never easy!

There is a central jacking point, under the engine. Usually a square plastic block, but on mine it was missing!

However it is unlikely your jack will fit far enough under the car to reach it. Mine is a long low level jack, and was no where near low enough or long enough to fit under the front to reach it.

So you need to drive the car onto some low ramps (blocks of wood or bricks about 2" (50mm) high :smile:) to lift the front high enough for the jack to fit under.

Slide the jack under and jack on the plastic block (if missing use a wood block, or old brake pad in my case :wink:). You will need a good stable jack.

Jack up the car until you can get an axle stand under both the sill points, using some blocks of wood (or the correct jacking pads) inside the jacking points.

Then lower onto the stands carefully!

:grin:
 

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Replace motor mounts - jacking up car

Hi;

Again, thanks for the information. You mention a central jacking point under the engine. Okay, I can visualize that. But, can you describe it a little more? Is there a cross member or some such there? Turns out a I have two small jacks and can jack the car up enough to get a third jack to that central point. Again, probably obvious - but always better to be informed.
Thanks very much.
Rich
 

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California Dreamin
2006 SLK 280
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13,649 Posts
Hi;

Again, thanks for the information. You mention a central jacking point under the engine. Okay, I can visualize that. But, can you describe it a little more? Is there a cross member or some such there? Turns out a I have two small jacks and can jack the car up enough to get a third jack to that central point. Again, probably obvious - but always better to be informed.
Thanks very much.
Rich
Post #7
http://www.slkworld.com/slk-r171-general-discussion/35413-jacking-points.html
 

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Registered 2005 SLK350
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67 Posts
Helpful Hints

Do: Drive the front of your car up on ramps instead of jack stands. They are safer and allow you to set the parking brakes then lift the rear using a jack to allow more wiggle room under the car. If you have access to a lift, then use it. If not--Ramps and a jack for lifting the rear under the jack points.

Do: Remove the driver side exhaust section from the header to the X-pipe. Hit the bolts with some PB Blaster to lube it up. There are two O2 sensors above and at the CAT. Make sure to disconnect the wires and carefully route them over the steering shaft.

Do: Remove the passenger side upper bolt from the top and the Driver side upper bolt from the bottom (after you remove the exhaust section). These bolts can be put back in if all is aligned properly using your fingers. These bolts also go through a heat shield that goes on top of the engine mount.

Do: reuse the white rubber covers to protect the mount.

Do: Align the notch with the key on the tops of the mounts. lowering the engine very close to the mount then using a flashlight, you can see if they are in alignment. IF not, you can twist them or use a prybar to get them right.

Don't: tighten the lower mount bolts until you have proper alignment of the mount with the notch and key at the top. You can then easily twist the mount to realign if need be. The lower mount bolt should be hand tightened allowing for turning of the mount by hand to get the alignment right.

Don't: remove anything from the front of the engine like compressors, hoses, wiring harnesses, belts. This is unnecessary. There is a video on youtube showing this approach but it is not necessary to remove anything other than the air intake box and air feeds. This allows access to the passenger top bolt, everything else is reached from under the car. Under the car, just remove the three underbody plastic shields, the exhaust section and that's it.

Don't: forget to tighten everything. Don't expect to get a torque wrench on those top bolts. Just tighten as best you can with the 16mm wrench.

Don't: spend $42 on pelican parts custom wrench. A full set of SAE and Metric stubby box end wrenches cost me $16. You can also buy a full sized wrench and cut the open end off to shorten it for $9. I found this job possible without the stubby wrench using only the full sized 16mm box end wrench. most of the assembly was done with fingers. The threads were loose and easy to thread by hand.

Do: choose in advance if you're going to jack up the engine from below with a wooden block and floor jack or if you're going to use a hoist to lift the engine. I prefer the ease of use of the floor jack.
 

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2005 SLK55 AMG
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154 Posts
No Need to remove exhaust on SLK55

I have replaced all the engine mounts on my 2005 SLK55 today.
Reading all the info on the net I was prepared for a big job but it wasn't that hard at all.
I have used Lemfoerder mounts as they are used by Mercedes and BMW as OEM.
As mentioned on this thread the left side and transmission mounts are very easy as long as you have the right tools.
The right hand side on the other hand has very limited space to remove the mount so all the research I have done said you need to remove the exhaust or A/C compressor and alternator , well I did Neither, all you need to do is move the front sway bar out of the way and you can get the mount out, took half an hour.
Simply remove the 2 bolts that hold the right side of the sway bar and the bracket comes off, then move the sensor out of the way so as not to damage it (2X10mm nuts), move the sway bar towards the engine and that creates enough room to get the mount in and out.
Hope this helps to anyone who is thinking of DIY on this one.
Again this is for a RHD 2005 SLK55 R171.
 

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Registered 2005 SLK350
2005 SLK350 Heater Kit Silver/Black leather Auto
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91 Posts
Just completed Motor Mount replacement on std 350 SLK. I do have a lift but this could be done on a "raised Front" style of setting. All from underside and reasonably easy job but must have 16mm cranked ratchet spanner plus remove Cat section of exhaust pipes. The hardest bit was the sensor leads to the Cats - refit. You need a decent trolley jack to raise engine slightly and then gearbox slightly, both +/- 30mm. Took me 3 hrs and discovered one engine mount completely shot and in two pieces, second one minus all oil. Transmission mount was 12mm lower than new one ( at rest ).
The only difficulty is finding a 16mm cranked ratchet spanner - this a non standard size which I found hard to track down.
I now have a 'brand new car', very smooth idle and start. Well pleased. I used Meyle Mounts which cost me R2 100 here which I considered a reasonable price and they do look nice quality.
Nearly forgot : after removing both bolts holding the engine mount, you need to raise the engine to exit the mount rearwards, as well as fit new mount from the rear. New mounts in my case were 12mm and 14mm higher than old ones.
Safe driving all.
 
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