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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
Anyone replace their motor mounts themselves? Is there a DIY somewhere on here somewhere? I've searched but was unable to find anything. Also, does anyone know a good place to purchase from online. Dealer stated they would need to be changed soon and would like to do them myself.
 

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I'm in the process of changing my engine mounts. Those top bolts of the engine mounts (1,10) are a pain to try and get to. I'm guessing I need to use angle socket adapters.
 

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just did my mounts, royal pain, need to drop the exhaust, the pass side is not too bad, can get at the top bolt from above, but drivers side is really tight. I was able to finally get a wrench on the top bolt from below but then really tough to get enough leverage to budge the bolt. Ended up taking 4 hours for 4 bolts, but was worth it, old mounts were worse than I thought and huge difference in smoothness. Also the top bolts don't come out all the way, they are captured.

good luck

Dave
 

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Change the mounts today

What a PITA. The passenger side was quick and easy. The driver side took several hours and I had to disconnect the headers from the cat to move the old mount out and put the new one in. Make sure you have an bendable rachet head if your trying this at home.

On the bright side the vibration when the car is in reverse is fixed. :grin:
 

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I have an '05 350 with 71K miles. I suspect my mounts should be changed out. We looked underneath to see them. Do they by chance have a white casing around them? Are they fluid filled? Can you usually tell if they are leaking or worn? I am thinking that since my car is 10 years old with 71K miles and we are talking about a rubber suspension item possibly filled with fluid and near high heat sources that they are probably failing or have failed. I have also noticed that my engine now seems rougher when stopped at lights. I also have a clunking sound on the left side going slow over bumps (I have already replaced the front struts and the outer tie rods) which I have read could be caused by a worn engine or transmission mount. I will have to have Mercedes or a shop that specilizes in imports replace them if needed. What do you think? Thanks for any feedback!
 

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OK I see now that the white is the outer part of the mount (looks like a cover). Also, did you guys replace them with OEM or the Febi Bilstein. Febi is much cheaper and wondering if they will last longer than the OEM. Febi does not have the white "shroud" that is on the OEM. Thanks!
 

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Hi kensokis, sounds like we are experiencing the same thing. After an hour on Google I've learned that excessive vibration. In drive and reverse are in likely a mount problem! Im in Australia so the problem is appearing at about 100k on the clock of my '06 350... text book according to the research I've done.

The problem I face is finding YouTube videos (great source for DIYers) that show the replacement process. Mr neighbor is a well equipped mechanic and this looks like a grunt job not a hi tech job so I'm considering DIY (or perhaps a better acronym would be DIN for neighbor)!

Would be interested in hearing about your experience as you progress and will share mine too.of course!

Regards




TouringSteve
 

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I had the same problem at about 90k on my 2006 slk350. I changed both engine mounts AND the transmission mount. Looking back i think the transmission mount helped fix the vibration in reverse more than changing the engine mounts. The tranny mount is an easy change and i think there is a how to on this site.
 

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Everything I read is PITA to replace mounts, especially passenger side, and requires removing cats, etc. I had my friend at a lube place let me look under in pit after removing plastic skid plates and yeah it is very tight. Since I don't have a garage here or a great neighbor like you, I will be taking it in somewhere. I plan to do the trans mount first as the part is cheap and the labor should not cost much since it is an easy job. Then just see the difference in ride/sounds before I replace the motor mounts (I will still replace the motor mounts, but like to know if one or the other was the cause of the sounds or vibration.) Nobody ever answered if the motor mounts are fluid filled but I thought I read that they are. If so, the rubber bladder is sure to be compromised by now and leaking due to age and the intense heat near them from the exhaust system and motor. Still trying to decide if I will go with the OEM motor mounts or the aftermarket (made by several companies). I will get the OEM trans mount however as not too expensive and I will probably have the Merc dealer do the work to stay in good with them. I will keep you all up to date on this latest adventure.

BTW I recently put in a Pioneer headunit with 6.2" touchscreen! Much better than the old Audio20 and it integrates with my iPhone! Got a great price through Amazon and free 2-day shipping through Prime. I will post details and a pic soon in the relevant thread.
 

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Had the Merc dealer replace the transmission mounts and also the motor mounts since there is a labor break doing both at the same time. Hard to tell if they were failing or had failed but there are some indications such as caked brown material that comes out of the two bottom holes when you shake them, and what look like stains on the bottom connection point. Assuming this is all dried fluid. Transmission mount still looked intact, but not sure if it was previously replaced. Greatly reduced engine vibration at idle, but front left clunk over bump at low speed did not go away. Merc dealer informed me front left thrust arm (upper control arm) bushing was shot. Just replaced them and now the clunking is gone! Took me replacing front struts (they were shot anyway), transmission and motor mounts (motor mounts likely failing or failed), and finally the upper front control arms to get rid of the clunk, but it is gone! Yea! Also for reference, my SLK is at 74K miles. Full write-up with pictures is here. http://www.slkworld.com/slk-r171-general-discussion/259873-thrust-arm.html
 

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I have that very same front left clunk. Must do the same at next service.
Mounts too maybe if I have any money left over from the timing chain job.
 

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After reading above, I've tuned in to a subtle vibration and noise at low speed while accelerating. It may also be there at higher speeds but I don't notice it. The vibration can be felt in the accelerator pedal and sounds like it's coming from the engine area. As speed picks up both the vibration and sound vanish.

I'm wondering if this might be a symptom of worn motor mounts although I'm at 65,000 miles. Of course it might be a totally normal condition. I will do a visual inspection....any other thoughts?
 

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Hi, journeyman.

You look uploaded scanned image some kind of repair manual...if I'm right, would you tell me what is this book ?
Can I buy from a online store?
I need one cause I have lot to fix things...

Please introduce me.

Thank you in advance.
 

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Registered 2006 SLK350
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Can anyone advise average price for parts and labor to replace engine and tranny mounts. Preparing to do this soon!
 

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Can anyone advise average price for parts and labor to replace engine and tranny mounts. Preparing to do this soon!
The job is fairly easy. It took me about 2 hours total. Below is a very good instruction link. Also I purchased the parts from RockAuto.com. The OEM Lemforder brand. I found the best price here under $100 for both motor mounts. I used the part number I found for the tranny mount and found it cheapest at Amazon. Good luck!
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...cement/22-ENGINE-Engine_Mount_Replacement.htm
 

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On the R171, DIYing this job is NOT fairly easy. I was able to do it myself in the garage, but I regretted it. It took me many hours of struggle (and the immeasurable pain of missing out on a weekend NOT driving it), but should take an indie just an hour or two to do. If you can rent a lift or garage space, you could give it a shot (but if you're a novice DIY mechanic like me, the rental cost might quickly catch up with what an indie shop would charge anyway, since you'd probably take a longer time to do it). It's just much easier and much faster and stress free to source the parts independently, such as here, and have an indie shop do it. I based my approach on the instructions at mercedesmedic.com.

I'd recommend the approach of removing the exhausts (disconnecting the down-pipe at the connection to the manifold header) to provide sufficient access to take them out. The instructions at mercedesmedic.com indicate that this is the dealer approach. The second approach listed at mercedesmedic.com talks about disconnecting the alternator and A/C compressor, and removing the mounts "top side". With the SLK, this can only be done with the passenger side mount. I tried to follow this approach with the driver-sound mount by disconnecting the A/C compressor and pushing it aside, but because of the immense challenge presented by the cramped space around the driver-side mount, I ultimately had to lift the engine much higher than recommended, and wiggle the mount down through the gap I created between the exhaust down-pipe and axle carrier. I got lucky: I totally expected to break something. While the passenger side mount is easy to unbolt from the top with the alternator out of the way, I had to unbolt the top of the driver-side mount while underneath the car using a combination of the recommended offset wrench and wrench extensions. I highly recommend purchasing the offset wrench if you decide to do this yourself: Mercedes Benz Offset 16mm Engine Mount Socket Wrench. However, when putting it all back together, a normal 16mm ratchet wrench is useful, but not needed.

If you're SLK is approaching or past the 100k mark, I *highly* recommend replacing them. It's not easy to conclusively say how bad they are (unless they are really bad and severely super broken of course), but at that 100k age, they most probably are. My own mounts were damaged a lot more severely than I imagined. The passenger side mount had leaked out a lot of it's hydraulic fluid and left a mess, while the driver side mount had deep long cuts in the rubber surrounding the top bolt area. I don't feel any improved "smoothness" in engine/car vibration with the new mounts, but that just confirms that you can't tell how worn or damaged your mounts are by feeling for vibrations being passed from the engine onto the chassis. However, my SLK has a manual transmission, and the damaged mount somehow made it difficult to smoothly change gears around 1st and 2nd. Replacing them has largely improved that problem.
 

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Thanks the images are helpful.
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