One question from someone who has only changed oil in vehicles that I could crawl under without using jacks or ramps. Can you get all the oil drained out of the pan in the SLK if the car is still up on jacks or ramps?
I have changed it both ways. I couldn't get it all out while on ramps - I think mine had at most a quart left in after draining, so for me the evacuation method is preferred. That said, the engine holds 8.5 quarts of oil, so the cross contamination risk IMHO is not as great as it would be in a car with a smaller sump or a lower quality filter.
Only getting 5.5 quarts is not normal for an R171 350. I use a MityVac to change my oil and can get upwards of 8 quarts each time. I usually run the engine so that the oil is warm but not hot. I suck it out of the dipstick tube with the oil cap removed. I can't remember it I take the filter out before, during, or after evacuating the oil.
Something weird is going on. If it sucks air then I might try a longer tube. If it stops pulling then it may be a loss of vacuum, too viscous, or too small a diameter tube.
Or I may be all wet and they only put 5.5 quarts in. Not really - you should get a low oil level warning if that's the case.
I appriciate your thoughts. It is though something is blocking the hose from gettting to the pan bottom. I got the same slurping sound at the end as if all oil was removed, but knew it was not by the weight of the oil can. The hose will only go down to about the depth of the dip stick, no matter how hard I push it.
Excluding mine can one assume that all 2005 SLK350s will allow the vacuum method for removing oil?
Edit: Just noticed that that document says nothing about the Oil system. I have attached a picture I found for the M272 that shows the configuration of the dipstick and the Oil Pan. The other comment I would make is that I have read on here of multiple dealerships that use the extraction method for changing oil.
I see the lower oil pan has a plateau/ledge directly beneath the dipstick tube. I can only assume that my vacuum tubing is too stiff to traverse to the bottom of pan. I will check with the local MB service dept on Monday for my options.
Update Sunday 7/27: Resolved by replacing 3/8" OD tubing with 1/4" OD similar to that supplied with a MityVac. Purchased from Lowes plumbing dep't. (I use a Big Boy TopSider MVP)
The great advantage of the SLK when doing oil changes is you can do it from the top and not even get your hands dirty. That's really big advantage since you don't have to get under the car and remove the plastic cover and drain plug.
It's obvious how to change the filter, but removing the engine oil a little less so. It is pumped out through the dip stick. The engine holds 8.5 qts, but the best I have been able to suck out is 8 quarts. Some of the residual oil will be trapped inside the engine, and it won't drain out even if the car is done on a rack and from the bottom.
A couple of tips. Be patient sucking the oil out. You'll need to do several attempts to get it all. When refilling, stop at 7 quarts on the initial fill and gradually add the rest. For a pump, Harbor Freight sells a nifty little pump for less than $10. Unfortunately, I bought the big hog dog MityVac which works OK too.
Just used the vacuum pump method to change my oil. I was able to get 7.6 quarts out. Couldn't have been cleaner or easier. Reset the service schedule thanks to the .pdf available on this site.
I know I'm preaching to the choir, but I love how easy these cars are to maintain. A large reason that Mercedes-Benz cars are so rare here in Wyoming is that there isn't a dealership in the state and Mercedes has a reputation for being expensive to maintain. Thanks to this site that simply isn't so! :smile: